The Uli cardigan belongs to the combination cuts category. You have the opportunity to sew two very different models with one pattern. The jacket has a stand-up collar and is closed with two snaps that are sewn on by hand. The slipover has an identical back part, a front part with a wrap effect and a V-neckline. The sleeve length of both tops ends just above the elbow, so they are ideal for wearing over blouses with statement sleeves.
Length at center back = 52 - 58 cm
In these instructions, Uli was sewn from a cotton blend.
Required material:
We recommend a knit or sweat fabric.
| Sizes 34-42 | Outer fabric jacket | 1.40 m | 140cm wide |
| Outer fabric sweater | 1.40 m | 140cm wide | |
| Sizes 44-50 | Outer fabric jacket | 1.60 m | 140cm wide |
| Outer fabric sweater | 1.80 m | 140cm wide | |
| Sizes 34-50 | snaps | 2 pieces | 16mm diameter |
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back piece and collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You need from fabric:
- 1x back part in break
- 1x collar in break
- 2x front part in opposite directions
Sewing instructions:
To sew this jacket you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!
Begin your sewing work by neatening the hems and front facing edges.
Then iron the sleeve hem, hem and front edge in the fold according to the pattern.
The back part is also trimmed at the hems...
... and ironed according to the pattern.
Now place the back part right sides together with the front parts and close both the side and shoulder seams. Neaten the seam allowances together and then iron them backwards.
Sew the previously ironed hem and sleeve hems in place.
Before you turn the collar together, neaten the raw edge of the inner collar.
Lay the collar on top of each other in the fold, right sides together, and turn over the short stretches.
Turn the collar right side out and iron it flat.
Now sew the outer collar, right sides together, to the back and front neckline up to the tip of the front facing. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut.
Iron open the seam allowances of the neckline on the front piece, iron the seam allowances of the back neckline upwards and clip the seam allowances in slightly.
This is what the almost finished collar looks like.
You can now place the front of the ironed apart seam allowances on top of each other and stitch together, just like when working on a lapel.
The trimmed inner collar is stitched from the right in the shadow of the seam. Needle the track to be safe.
Finally, secure the facing tips at the seam allowances of the shoulder seam...
... and sew your snaps in the right position.
Your ULI is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
