Sewing instructions for the Add-On Blouse Mathilda

The ruffle sleeve add-on for our Mathilda blouse. If you already own the classic Mathilda version, you can download the sleeve extension and you'll have two versions of this great raglan blouse.

Length at the center back = 65 - 71 cm

Mathilda Add-On was sewn from Tencel in this tutorial.

→ To the “Mathilda” pattern

→ To the pattern “Mathilda Add-On”

Required materials:

We recommend a soft flowing viscose or a polyester or silk satin.

Sizes 34-50

Outer fabric

0.30 m

140 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm cut with scissors or chalk. Marks define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 4x sleeve ruffle

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this blouse, you will need a sewing machine and an overlocker. Alternatively, you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the raw edges. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide.

Have fun sewing!

The first step is to neaten the lower edge of the ruffle, as well as the shoulder and the lower edge of the sleeve (see photo) up to the notches in the pattern.

Here we'll show you how to sew a right/left seam, also called a French seam. This gives the seams of lighter and/or sheer woven fabrics a nice finish, and eliminates the need for an overlock seam. This is why you "hide" the raw edges with a French seam. All you need is a straight stitch and an iron. Place your pattern pieces, wrong sides together. Yes, you read that right: the right side of the fabric will be facing out on both pieces. This contradicts the "normal" sewing method, where you always place the fabric right sides together so that the seam allowances are on the inside. The laid seam is sewn together with a 0.5cm indentation.

The seam allowance is now unusually visible on the outside, on the right side of the fabric. The seam allowances are ironed apart. You can also iron them together to one side. We generally recommend not skipping the ironing step with this technique.

Now place the layers right sides together and press the seam to create a fold or edge. The sleeve is stitched 1 cm. The 0.5 cm seam allowance disappears into it, and the fabric sides are right sides together. The seam allowance is pressed back. You can also use this type of stitching for shoulder and side seams.

This is what the finished seam looks like from the inside.

Then the previously finished shoulder and the lower sleeve are sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance.

To ensure the ruffle sits nicely, the seam allowance is topstitched flat in the final step. To do this, the seam allowance is folded into the blouse and topstitched through.

If you've already sewn the Mathilda blouse and want to add the ruffles later, simply neaten the raw edge of the inner circle, tuck it into the sleeve slit, and stitch it along the sleeve slit's topstitching line. If you prefer a French seam, simply open the topstitching and sew it as per the instructions.

Your MATHILDA ADD-ON is ready!

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.