SEWING INSTRUCTIONS BIKER JACKET “ESTELLE”

For our biker jacket you should already have some sewing experience. But the effort is worth it, because the cool jacket is a real eye-catcher and can be combined with a wide variety of outfits. The shoulder pads and dividing seams are beautiful details and emphasize the narrow, feminine shape of the jacket .

Length at center back = 49-55cm

In this pattern, Estelle was sewn from an elastic wool blend.

Required material:

We recommend a Romanit, a wool blend or soft faux leather.

Sizes 34-42	outer fabric	1.50 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	outer fabric	2.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-42	lining	1.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	lining	1.40 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-42	inlay	1.10 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	inlay	1.20 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	pad	1 pair	straight edge, thin
Sizes 34-50	cotton line	2 strips	5cm x 30cm
Sizes 34-40	ripper pockets	2x	12cm long
Sizes 42-44	ripper pockets	2x	13 cm long
Sizes 46-50	ripper pockets	2x	14cm long
Sizes 34-36	ripper in front	1 x	43 cm long tlb.
Sizes 38-42	ripper in front	1 x	45 cm long tlb.
Sizes 44-50	ripper in front	1 x	50 cm long tlb.
Sizes 34-50	form tape	about 2 m	12mm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the underlap, back lining and facing in the fold at the back. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 1x understep in the breach
• 2x side part at the back in opposite directions
• 2x back piece in opposite directions
• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
• 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x lower sleeves in opposite directions

also glue the hems with inserts:

• 2x back part
• 2x rear side panels
• 2x upper sleeves
• 2x lower sleeves

also with insert:

• 1x receipt at the back in the rupture
• 2x epaulettes in opposite directions
• 2x pocket document opposite
• 2x document in front of the same
• 2x side parts in front of the same
• 2x front part in opposite directions

You need from feed:

• 2x upper sleeve lining in opposite directions
• 1x back part lining in break
• 2x undersleeve lining in opposite directions
• 2x pocket bag lining in opposite directions
• 2x front lining in opposite directions
• 2x side part rear lining in opposite directions
• 2x side part front lining in opposite directions

You need from deposit:

• 2x back part adhesive
• 2x front part adhesive

also with band:

• Neckline facings at back
• Neckline facings at front
• Armholes side panels in front
• shoulders front parts

Sewing instructions:

To sew this jacket you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Begin your sewing with the sleeves. The left upper sleeve is sewn together with the left lower sleeve, right sides together. Then iron the seam allowances apart.

The inner arm seam is also closed and the seam allowances ironed open.

Iron the hems of the sleeves at the snaps.

The back parts are closed, right sides together, in the center back. Then iron out the seam allowances.

You can then attach the side panels to the prepared back panel. Here, too, the seam allowances are ironed out.

A shaping tape is sewn or ironed onto the back neckline and armholes to stabilize the garment. Sew or iron the shaping tape to the back neckline and armholes inside the seam allowance. You should measure the length of the shaping band on your paper cut to avoid length differences.

This way the neckline of your garment cannot warp or borrow.

Now we come to the zip pockets in the front part. For this, the receipt pocket is placed, right sides together, on the front piece. Pay attention to the markings in the cut. Info: If the outer fabric is particularly thick, the document pocket can also be cut from the lining plus insert. In this way, the thicker fabric does not push through to the outside. Note that you should check the pocket window length with the zipper length and the zipper length may need to be adjusted.

Now the middle can be cut open. The process is reminiscent of the processing of a piped pocket. Between the rectangle is cut in the middle and at both ends a triangle.

Now you can turn the slip inside out. The slip is then flat-stitched as far as you can get at it. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

This is what your finished pocket window looks like from the wrong side of the fabric.

The pocket zipper can now be positioned under the pocket window and stitched all the way around, seen from the right.

Finished pocket window with zipper from right side of fabric.

In order for the pocket window to become a real pocket, only the pocket pouches are missing. The lining bag is first stitched to the facing, right sides together...

... and then flat-stitched onto the seam allowances. Only the lining bag is stitched onto the facing with a narrow edge.

The pocket bag made of outer fabric is placed on the facing, right sides together, and stitched. Make sure to sew as close to the zipper opening as possible. This works best with half a foot.

Both bags are sewn together and you have a finished pocket bag.

Now let's get to the food. The side part at the back is sewn together with the back part, right sides together, ...

... the side part in front with the side part in the back and...

... the front part with the side part in front.

Sew the shoulders together, according to the pattern, right sides together and then iron them backwards.

Next up is the back piece. In the center back is a lining fold. Lay the back piece in the fold and from the edge, sew down and up the width of the fold about 2cm and lock well. Iron this fold in one direction up to the hem.

The right upper sleeve is sewn together with the right lower sleeve, right sides facing, and the inner arm seam is also closed. However, an opening of approx. 20 cm is left on the left sleeve so that the hem can be closed later through this opening. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Both lining sleeves are turned right side out and inserted into the previously prepared torso. Make sure that the side seams and the snaps are on top of each other. Iron the seam allowances into the sleeves. The lining can be put aside for the time being.

In the next steps we will show you how to easily shorten a metal zipper. First you measure the distance on average and transfer the exact length to your zipper.

To shorten, the overmeasured prongs are pulled out with pliers from above. Note that the first prong after bending open must be picked up and put back on later so that the slider does not slide out upwards.

The zipper can now be worked into the front parts. Orientate yourself on the snaps in the cut.

The zip underlay is laid right sides together in a fold and stitched through on the short sides. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

The zipper underlay slides between the front facing and the front panel on the left side of the body. You can also secure it beforehand with a large auxiliary seam to prevent it from slipping unnecessarily. Note the snaps in the cut and the exact position of the underlay under the zipper.

Finished slip on the left side of the body.

The facings are processed on both front parts and ironed inwards. Make sure that the bottom hem edges are the same length and iron the hem over.

Then the side part with the integrated pocket is sewn to the prepared front part and the seam allowances are ironed out.

In order to be able to sew the epaulettes onto the shoulder seam, they must be closed, right sides together, and the seam allowances ironed open.

For the epaulettes, it is best to use our prepared ironing template and iron the seam allowances of the curve. In order for the seam allowances to lie nicely in the curve, they must be cut.

The epaulettes are fixed in the right position and needled...

... and just understitched edge.

The front facings on the front piece are sewn to the facing on the back, right sides together...

… and then turned over at the neckline of the back and front. Cut the seam allowances neatly so that the curve lies well.

The slip is then flat-stitched as far as you can get at it. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Close the torso by sewing together the side seams of the front and back pieces, right sides together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

Before the sleeve is sewn into the body, you should provide it with an auxiliary seam so that the arm length does not stretch when worn. To do this, sew an auxiliary seam within the seam allowance from the snap to the double snap. Next, sew the sleeve, right sides together, into your jacket. Make sure that the side seams and the snaps are on top of each other. The seam allowances are ironed into the sleeves.

The wadding is worked into the sleeve head inside the seam allowance.

Decide for yourself whether you need extra padding for your shoulders. Some shoulders fill out the armcap particularly well and don't need extra support, as with our model. We only used cotton wool for better shaping. Nevertheless, we will show you here how best to sew on a pad for the shoulders: The pad lies in the middle of the shoulder seam. Fix the short side with a short piece inside the seam allowance of the shoulder seam and the long side completely inside the seam allowance of the sleeve head.

Now comes the food. Place the lining in your jacket the way it looks sewn in, but with the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric. Now you sew the lining along the facing edges.
The seam allowances of facing and lining are ironed flat into the body.
To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here.

Then you sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem. So that it doesn't get twisted, we first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin the lining at the hem with a pin. Only then do we pull out the sleeve and lay the rest.

Then you grab the seam allowance of the lining armhole at shoulder seam height and sew it together with a strip of lining (approx. 3-4cm long) so that the lining has approx. 3cm to play with. Then sew the strip to the outer fabric in the same position.

The seam allowances under the armpits of lining and fabric are held together with a bar.

Now you can close the hem, leaving a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire jacket through the armhole.

Sew up the remaining piece of hem by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the open hem to sew up.

Now all you have to do is sew up the armhole in the lining and your jacket is finished.