| Size 34-38 | Outer fabric | 1.80 m | 140 cm wide |
| lining fabric | 1.35 m | 140 cm wide | |
| insert | 1.00 m | 90 cm wide | |
| Size 40-44 | Outer fabric | 2.00 m | 140 cm wide |
| lining fabric | 1.40 m | 140 cm wide | |
| insert | 1.00 m | 90 cm wide | |
| Size 46-50 | Outer fabric | 2.40 m | 140 cm wide |
| lining fabric | 1.70 m | 140 cm wide | |
| insert | 1.15 m | 90 cm wide |
Sewing instructions Blazer Quete
The Quete blazer pattern is a great, cool addition to any transitional-season outfit. Styled like a boyfriend blazer , it has a casual and comfortable fit and goes with a wide variety of outfits. The short lapels and lined patch pockets are a bit challenging to sew, and the Quete is fully lined, so you'll need some sewing experience.
Length at the back center = 68-76cm
→ To the “Quete” pattern
Quete was sewn from a knit in this tutorial.
Required materials:
We recommend a firmer jersey or sweat fabric, but wool or linen is also possible.
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric, and interfacing . Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. (There is also a video here about gluing and fixing cut pieces.)
Check out our video on lining blazers .
You will need the following outer fabric:
- 2x back parts opposite
- 2x front parts opposite
- 2x side front parts opposite
- 2x front facing opposite
- 2x upper sleeves opposite
- 2x undersleeves opposite
- 2x collar stays in the fold
- 1x upper collar in the fold
- 1x undercollar in the fold
- 1x neck hole cover in the break
- 2x pockets opposite
also with insert:
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x bridge
- 2x front pieces (if you're using a stretch fabric or jersey, I would recommend gluing the front pieces as well; if you're using a firm or light fabric, you don't need to do it)
- But what you need to glue on the front piece is the shoulder and armhole area. I've marked the pattern piece you need to glue in yellow. The red arrows represent the grain lines of the interfacing.
- 2x back part
- Here the grain of the interlining is horizontal to the grain of the fabric.
- 2x front part facing
- Here the interfacing and fabric are in the same grain.
- 2x hems of the sleeves and back
- If you haven't glued the front pieces completely, you'll need to glue the hems.
- You also attach an interfacing strip to the top edge of the pocket cut pieces.
You will need from food:
- 1x back part in the fracture
- 2x front parts opposite
- 2x side front parts opposite
- 2x upper sleeves opposite
- 2x undersleeves opposite
- 2x pockets opposite
- 2x strips 2cm wide and 10cm long
You also need:
- 1 pair of shoulder pads
- 3 buttons, approx. 2.2cm diameter
- 2 strips of wadding for the armhole, approx. 30 x 4 cm
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
To sew this blazer you will need a sewing machine.
In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Have fun sewing!
It's best to start with the lining. Place the two sleeve pieces together along the long side and sew them together. 
Then iron the seam allowance into the larger pattern piece. 
Next, close the other sleeve seam. It's important to leave a gap of about 15 cm in one of the sleeves. You'll use this hole to turn the jacket inside out later. 
After the sleeve, continue with the front piece. First, sew in the darts and iron them upwards toward the armhole. 
Then connect the small side part to the large front part. 
Once assembled, the front piece will look like this. Don't forget to iron the seam allowance. 
Next, we'll move on to the back piece. There's a lining pleat at the center back. Fold the back piece over the fold and sew about 2cm down from the edge at a 2cm mark (see pattern for the width of the pleat), then secure it. Press this pleat in one direction all the way to the hem. 
Now you can join the front pieces to the back. To do this, sew the side seams and the shoulder seam together. Press the side and shoulder seams apart. 
Finally, just insert the sleeve and put the finished lining aside. 
Take the two sleeve pieces and sew them together along the long side. Press the seam allowance open. 
It's best to iron the hem now, then you won't have to do it once the whole sleeve is closed. 
Fold the hem back open and sew the sleeve closed. Press the seam allowance open again. You can set the sleeves aside for now. 
Next, we'll move on to the front piece. First, sew in the darts and iron them upwards toward the armhole. 
Next, join the side pieces to the matching front pieces. Press the seam allowances open after sewing them together. 
This is what the finished front part looks like. 
On the front pieces, attach shaping tape to the collar, shoulder seam, and armhole. We also have a video for this. Just click here . 
Next, join the two back pieces together at the center back. Place them right sides together, sew them together, and then iron the seam open. 
On the back piece, you also need to cover the neckline and armhole with shaping tape. 
Now you need to prepare the pockets for sewing. First, iron the pocket opening at the notches (iron over 4 cm), then open it up again and sew the lining to the edge. I then ironed it again as shown in the picture. 
Then fold the bag over once and sew one side completely closed, leaving a 4cm gap on the other side (you'll need this to turn the bag right side out later). Then iron the seam allowance onto the lining. 
It will look like this. Now sew the bottom edge closed and turn the bag inside out through the hole you left in one side. This hole will then be closed by sewing the bag on. 
Finally, I ironed the pockets flat so that the lining doesn't show through. 
Now it's time to attach the front pieces. Dots on the pattern pieces indicate the position of the pockets. It's best to sew these on close to the edge. 
At the top of the opening, I placed the locking mechanism parallel to the opening edge (see image). This prevents the bag from tearing too quickly during prolonged use. 
Once you have attached the pockets, you can sew the facings to the front pieces. 
Next, iron the hem upwards. Fold the facing inside out (right sides facing). 
What you see here is the facing that's on the front piece (you can see a bit of the pocket at the top left). The yellow line is the one you need to sew now. It starts exactly at the fold of the hem and tapers to 1cm from the edge. Do not sew all the way to the end of the facing, otherwise you won't be able to attach the lining. 
When you fold the whole thing back over, it will look like this when finished. 
Now join the front and back pieces together at the side and shoulder seams. Press the side and shoulder seams open. 
The blazer also comes with a collar. First, sew the collar stays to the collar and press the seam allowance open. 
I topstitched the seam close to the edge on the right and left. 
Then place the two collars on top of each other and sew them together. You can either press the seam allowance to one side or sew it to the undercollar just next to the seam. 
Next, sew the shorter sections together. Don't sew the entire length, but leave 1cm open at the end. 
Turn the collar inside out, finish the corners, and iron. Next, insert the collar. 
When attaching the collar, it's best to start at the front. The undercollar is sewn to the front and back pieces. The upper collar is attached to the facings. Sew the undercollar from the notch in the front piece to the corner. 
Then place the facing on the front piece and sew the section from the edge to the notch. 
Open the whole thing up again and sew the upper collar to the front facing from the notch to the corner. Repeat these three steps on the other end of the collar. 
Next, sew the back neck facing to the front facing (both sides). This allows you to fully insert the collar. 
Clip the corners just before the seam (the pink lines in the photo). If you don't do this, you won't be able to turn the collar over to sew it to the back neckline. 
Sew one collar from the corner across the center back to the other corner at the neck hole. 
Do the same with the front collar on the neckline. Important: You can sew a hanger into this seam. 
This is what the finished collar looks like from the inside. You should now press the seam allowance open, and the arrows tell you what happens next. Fold the seam allowances together... 
… and sew the seam allowances together. 
The collar is finished.
Next, sew the sleeves into the blazer. Make sure the side seams and notches line up. 
The sleeve finish on a blazer (and jackets) is a special task. First, you need a strip of wadding that's about 4cm wide and 30cm long. Sew this in the center of the armhole seam allowance. 
Next, you'll need the shoulder pads and lining strips. Sew the straight side of the pad to the armhole seam allowance. Make sure the shoulder pad is centered on the shoulder seam. Sew the lining strip into this seam at the shoulder seam. 
To prevent the cushion from wobbling back and forth, sew it to the seam allowance of the shoulder seam with a few stitches. 
Now comes the lining. Place the lining into the blazer as it will appear when sewn in, but with the right side of the lining facing the right side of the fabric. Now sew the lining along the facing edges, starting at the hem on one side and sewing all the way to the other end. 
Then, grab the armhole seam allowance at shoulder seam height and sew it to the strip, leaving 3cm of slack for the lining. Then, you can spot-sew the seam allowances of the outer fabric and the lining together at the side seam armhole (under the arm).
Then you sew the lining to the sleeve hem. To prevent it from twisting, I first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin it to the hem. Only then do I pull the sleeve out and fold the rest. 
To prevent the hem of the sleeve from folding out, sew the seam allowances of the seams and the hem together at certain points. 
This is what the sleeve looks like once the lining has been inserted. 
Now you can close the hem. To do this, leave a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire blazer through the armhole. Sew the remaining hem by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the remaining open hem to sew it shut. 
Now all you have to do is sew the armhole in the lining close to the edge, and your blazer is finished. Finally, add the three buttonholes to the right (worn) front piece according to the pattern. The buttonholes are sewn across the front edge; ensure the correct distance from the edge by referring to the center front in the pattern. You can now sew the buttons onto the left front piece according to the buttonholes.
Your QUETE is ready!
If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.
