The pattern for the blazer Quete is great as a cool outfit addition for the transitional period. Boyfriend blazer style, casual and comfortable in fit, it really goes with a lot of clothes. The short lapel and the lined patch pockets are a bit demanding, and Quete is also fully lined, so you should have some sewing experience.
Center back length = 68-76cm
Quete was sewn from a rope in this pattern.
Required material:
We recommend stronger jersey, sweat fabric, but wool or linen is also possible.
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining . Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. (There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.)
Also watch our video on lining blazers .
You need from outer fabric:
- 2x back pieces in opposite directions
- 2x front parts in opposite directions
- 2x lateral front parts in opposite directions
- 2x front piece receipt in opposite directions
- 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x lower sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x collar stand in break
- 1x upper collar in break
- 1x undercollar in break
- 1x neckline receipt in the break
- 2x bags in opposite directions
also with insert:
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x jetty
- 2x front piece (if you use an elastic fabric or jersey, I would also recommend gluing the front pieces, you don't have to do it with a firm or light fabric)
- But what you have to glue in the front part is the shoulder and armhole area. I have drawn the pattern piece to be glued in yellow. The red arrows are the threadlines of the insert.
- 2x back part
- Here the grainline of the interlining is horizontal to the grainline of the fabric.
- 2x front cover
- Here interlining and fabric are in the same grainline.
- 2x hems of the sleeves and the back part
- If you have not glued the front parts all over, you have to glue the hems.
- You also stick an insert strip on the upper edge of the bag pattern parts.
You need from feed:
- 1x back part in break
- 2x front parts in opposite directions
- 2x lateral front parts in opposite directions
- 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x lower sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x bags in opposite directions
- 2x strips 2cm wide and 10cm long
You also need:
- 1 pair of shoulder pads
- 3 buttons, approx. 2.2cm in diameter
- 2 strips of wadding for the armhole, approx. 30 x 4cm
Sewing instructions:
You will need a sewing machine to sew this blazer.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Happy sewing!
It's best to start with the food. Lay the two sleeve pattern pieces on top of each other on the long side and sew them together. 
Then iron the seam allowance into the larger pattern piece. 
Then you close the other seam of the sleeve. It is important that you leave a gap of about 15 cm in this seam in one of the sleeves. You will later turn the jacket over this hole. 
After the sleeves, continue on the front piece. Here you first sew in the darts and iron them up towards the armhole. 
Then you connect the small side part with the large front part. 
The front part looks like this when assembled. Don't forget to iron out the seam allowance. 
Next up is the back part. In the center back is a lining fold. Lay the back piece in the fold and sew down about 2cm from the edge at 2cm (width of the fold see pattern) and pin it tight. Iron this fold in one direction up to the hem. 
Now you can connect the front pieces to the back piece. To do this, sew the side seams and the shoulder seam together. The side and shoulder seams are ironed apart. 
Finally, just insert the sleeves and put the finished lining aside. 
Take the two sleeve pieces and sew them together along the long side. Iron the seam allowance apart. 
It's best to iron the hem now so you don't have to do it when the entire sleeve is closed. 
Unfold the hem again and sew up the sleeves. Iron the seam allowance back apart. You can put the sleeves aside for now. 
Next up is the front part. Here you first sew in the darts and iron them up towards the armhole. 
Next, connect the side pieces to the matching front pieces. Press open the seam allowance after sewing. 
This is what a finished front part looks like. 
Glue shaping tape to the neckline, shoulder seam and armhole of the front parts. We also have a video for this. Just click here . 
Next, join the two back pieces together in the center back. Place right sides together, sew together and then iron the seam apart. 
On the back part you also have to tape the neck hole and the arm hole with forming tape. 
Now you have to finish the pockets for sewing. To do this, first iron out the pocket opening at the snaps. (iron around 4cm) unfold it again and sew the lining to the edge. I then ironed it again as shown in the picture. 
Then fold the bag over once and sew up one side completely and leave a gap of 4 cm on the other (you will need this to turn the bag right side out later). Then iron the seam allowance onto the lining. 
It will look like that. Now sew up the bottom edge and turn the bag through the hole you left in one side. This hole is then closed by sewing on the bag. 
Finally, I ironed the pockets flat so that the lining doesn't show through. 
So it's time to put on the front parts. Dots on the pattern pieces show you the position of the pockets. It is best to sew these on with a narrow edge. 
At the top of the opening I set the lock parallel to the opening edge (see picture). This prevents the bag from tearing off too quickly due to long use. 
Once you have the pockets on, you can sew the facings to the front pieces. 
Next, iron the hem up. Fold the receipt outwards (so that it is right sides together). 
What you see here is the slip that is on the front piece (you can see a bit of the pocket on the top left). The yellow line is the one you need to sew now. It starts right at the fold of the hem and tapers to 1cm from the edge. Never sew to the end of the lining, otherwise you won't be able to put the lining on. 
When you fold the whole thing back over, it will look like this when you're done. 
Now join the front pieces to the back piece at the side and shoulder seams. The side and shoulder seams are ironed apart. 
The blazer also has a collar. First, sew the tabs to the collar and iron open the seam allowance. 
I still stitched the seam on the right and left edge. 
Then you put the two collars on top of each other and sew them together. You can either iron the seam allowance to one side or sew it to the undercollar just next to the seam. 
The next step is to sew the short sections together. Do not sew the entire length, but leave 1cm free at the end. 
Turn the collar inside out, work out the corners and iron. It continues to insert. 
When attaching the collar, it is best to start at the front. The undercollar is sewn to the front and back pieces. The upper collar is connected to the facings. Sew on the undercollar from the snap in the front to the corner. 
Then place the facing on the front piece and sew together the stretch from the edge to the notch. 
Unfold the whole thing again and sew the upper collar to the front facing from the snap to the corner. Repeat these three steps at the other end of the collar. 
Next, sew the back neckline facing to the front facing (both sides). This allows you to use the collar completely. 
Cut the corners just before the seam (the pink lines in the photo). If you don't do this, you won't get the collar turned around to sew to the back neckline. 
Sew one collar from the corner across the center back to the other corner at the neckline. 
You do the same with the front collar at the neckline facing. Important: you can sew a hanger into this seam. 
This is what the finished collar looks like from the inside. You should iron out the seam allowance and the arrows will tell you what's going to happen next. Fold the seam allowances together... 
... and sew the seam allowances together. 
The collar is ready.
Next, sew the sleeves into the blazer. Make sure that the side seams and the snaps are on top of each other. 
The way the sleeves are finished is something special on a blazer (and jackets). First you need a cotton strip that is about 4cm wide and 30cm long. You sew this in the middle of the seam allowance of the armhole. 
After that you need the shoulder pads and the lining strips. Sew the straight side of the pad to the armhole seam allowance. Make sure the shoulder pad is centered on the shoulder seam. Sew the lining strip into this seam at the height of the shoulder seam. 
To keep the padding from wobbling back and forth, sew it on with a few stitches at the seam allowance of the shoulder seam. 
Now comes the food. Place the lining in the blazer the way it looks sewn in, but with the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric. Now sew the lining along the edges of the lining, starting on one side at the hem and sewing all the way through to the other end. 
Then you grab the seam allowance of the armhole at shoulder seam height and sew it together with the strip so that the lining has 3 cm of play. Then you can sew together the seam allowance of the outer fabric and the lining at the height of the side seam armhole (under the arm).
Then you sew the lining to the sleeve hem. So that it doesn't get twisted, I first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin the lining to the hem with a pin. Only then do I pull out my sleeve and lay down the rest. 
So that the hem of the sleeve does not fold out, sew the seam allowances of the seams and the hem together at points. 
This is what the sleeve looks like after the lining has been inserted. 
Now you can close the hem, leaving a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire blazer through the sleeve hole. Sew up the remaining piece of hem by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the open hem to sew up. 
Now all you have to do is sew up the armhole in the lining and your blazer is sewn up. Finally, the three buttonholes are made according to the pattern in the right (dressed) front piece. The buttonholes are sewn in across the front edge, pay attention to the correct distance to the edge by noting the center front in the pattern. You can now sew the buttons on the left front piece according to the buttonholes.
Your QUETE is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
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