If you love lightweight transitional jackets, you should definitely take a closer look at our "Birgit Jacket" pattern. This lightweight blouson with knitted cuffs at the neck, hem, and sleeves is totally on trend. The integrated zippered pockets and the center-front zip give the blouson a sporty touch. These details are a bit more challenging to implement, but the result is worth it. If you need help sewing, there are illustrated sewing instructions on our blog.
Length in the back center = 58 - 68 cm
Birgit was sewn in this tutorial from a printed cotton.
→ To the “Birgit Add-On” pattern
Just for your information:
Required materials:
We recommend a firmer jersey or printed cotton and cuff fabric.
Sizes 34-40
- Outer fabric 1.40 m (140 cm wide)
- Ripper tlb. 1 piece 52 cm long
Sizes 42-46
- Outer fabric 1.60 m (140 cm wide)
- Ripper tlb. 1 piece 54 cm long (42-44)
- Ripper tlb. 1 piece 56 cm long (46)
Sizes 48-50
- Outer fabric 2.00 m (140 cm wide)
- Ripper tlb. 1 piece 58 cm long (48)
- Ripper tlb. 1 piece 62 cm long (50)
Sizes 34-50
- Knit 0.25 m 110 cm wide
- Insert 0.80 m 90 cm wide
- Ripper ntlb. 2 pieces 12 cm long
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing . Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3 mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here on gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need fabric:
- 1x back part in the fracture
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x upper sleeves opposite
- 2x undersleeves opposite
- 2x pocket bags above opposite
- 2x pocket bags below opposite
- 2x front panel panels opposite
To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
We have prepared a video for you here to show you how to make the bag.
First, take the front pieces and pocket facings.
Place the pocket facings, right sides together, on the front pieces (as marked on the pattern piece) and sew a box the length and width of the zipper.
Then cut open the pocket receipt as shown by the lines in the picture.
Turn the facing through the slit to the wrong side and iron the box edge.
This is what the collapsed pocket window looks like.
Sew the left zipper tape to the edge of the inner pocket bag (right side of the fabric).
Iron the pocket bag down into the edge.
From the right side, sew the zipper to the pocket opening all around with 0.2cm (the TB is also flat-stitched on the inside).
Here you can see the finished bag from the left side of the fabric.
Then neaten the sides of the pocket bag together and secure the bottom edge of the front part with 0.5cm.
Next, sew the two facing pieces together, right sides together, all the way around (leaving a turning opening on the straight edge), and turn the facing right side out. Then iron the edge.
The zipper is stitched to the front pieces (the notch is the fold of the fabric, the narrow line next to it is the center front, where the teeth of the metal zipper also end).
Neaten the visible edge of the front facings, fold them over 0.7cm and stitch them in place.
Sew the facing to the front pieces (the notch is the fold line).
Sew the zipper panel onto the right front piece (as marked on the pattern) at 0.2cm.
Place the front pieces on the back, right sides together, and sew the shoulder seams. Neaten them together and press the seam allowances to the back.
Fold the collar's knitted cuff, wrong sides together, into the fold and sew it to the neckline, right sides together (without a facing). Trim the cuff's tip slightly. Fold the facings, right sides together, over the cuff and stitch them in place at the seam. Trim the corners and neaten the seam allowances. Fold the seam allowance under and topstitch close to the edge (0.2 cm).
Place the side seams right sides together and sew them together. Finish everything together and press the seam allowance back.
Fold the knitted cuff, wrong sides together, over the fold and sew it to the hem, right sides together (without a facing). Then trim the tips of the knitted cuff slightly.
Fold the front facings, right sides together, over the cuff and sew them together at the hem. Trim the corners if necessary and neaten the sewn-together seam allowances.
Stitch the seam allowance close to the edge from the right side.
Stitch the front piece and facings 0.2cm next to the zipper to give the zipper more strength.
Stitch the facings to the shoulder seam allowance.
Sew the upper and lower arms together at the upper arm seam. Neaten the seam allowance together and press it into the underarm. Finally, sew the seam allowance to the outer fabric, close to the edge (0.2 cm).
Sew the underarm seam together and neaten it. Fold the seam allowance toward the underarm and topstitch just along the edge (0.2 cm).
Close the sleeve cuff, right sides together, on the short side (sew to a ring) and iron the seam allowances apart.
Fold the finished cuffs, wrong sides together, lengthwise along the fold and sew them to the sleeve hem, right sides together. Neaten the seam allowances together and press them into the sleeve. Finally, sew the seam allowance to the outer fabric, close to the edge (0.2 cm).
