Sewing instructions blouson jacket Mubera

The transition jacket Mubera lives up to its name: the lucky one. With this unlined jacket despite you - happy- cool summer evenings. The basic idea was a college-style jacket, so we left the details like a stand-up collar, elasticated hems and a visible zipper in the center front. The processing of contrasting fabric on the stand-up collar and the stripes used in the upper sleeve give Mubera its individual look.

Length at center back = 55-61 cm

Mubera was sewn from a silk fabric in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Mubera”

Required material:

We recommend a printed cotton or silk, as a contrast fabric, a corresponding fabric in uni

Sizes 34-40

• Outer fabric 1.40 m 140 cm wide

• Contrasting fabric 0.85 m 140 cm wide

• Lining 0.25m 140cm wide

• Insert 0.75 m 90 cm wide

• Rubber 0.45m 5cm wide

• Rubber 0.50 m 2cm wide

Sizes 42-50

• Outer fabric 1.70 m 140 cm wide

• Contrasting fabric 0.85 m 140 cm wide

• Lining 0.25m 140cm wide

• Insert 0.75 m 90 cm wide

• Rubber 0.45m 5cm wide

• Rubber 0.50 m 2 cm wide

Zipper divisible

• Size 341x48cm

• Size 36 1 x 50 cm

• Sizes 38-40 1 x 52 cm

• Sizes 42-44 1 x 55 cm

• Sizes 46-50 1 x 58 cm

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the back piece, collar, facing at the back and hem facing at the back in a fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 1x back part in break

• 2x front part side opposite

• 2x front part in opposite directions

• 4x pocket bags, 2 x opposite each other

• 2x sleeves-rear opposite

• 2x sleeve middle opposite

• 2x sleeves in front in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 2x receipt front opposite

• 1x document-back in the rupture

• 1x hem facing in the fold at the back

• 2x hem facing in opposite directions

• 2x collar in break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouson you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

If you use a zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.

So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Then sew the front piece side to the front piece, right sides together. Note the markings on the cut and leave the pocket opening open accordingly.

Press the seam allowances forward and prepare the pocket opening.

Place a matching pocket bag right sides together on the front part and sew both together. Overcast the seam allowances and press them forward.

Sew the oppositely cut pocket bag to the front side panel, right sides together. Neaten the seam allowances together and press them forward as well.

Now neaten the seam allowances with the pocket bag in one go and iron the seam allowances to the front. Also close the pocket bags together.

Take the back piece and sew it right sides together onto the prepared front pieces. Neat the seam allowances together and press them to the back.

Sew the center sleeves to the front and back sleeves with right sides together. Pay attention to the markings in the cut and the designations on the front and back. Neat the seam allowances together and press them outwards.

Here you can see the finished sleeve.

There you can now fold in the hems twice...

...and iron.

Sew the inner arm seam right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and iron them to the back.

Cut the elastics to the right length, stitch the hem close to the edge to form a tunnel, and don't forget to leave an opening for the elastic.

Use a safety pin to pull the elastic band you have cut (see pattern) through the tunnel and stitch into a round.

Slightly close the opening with a seam edge.

Place the prepared sleeves right sides together in the raglan opening and sew them in place. Neat the seam allowances together.

Now come to the document processing. Place the facing on the front facing, right sides together, and sew the shoulder seams together. Then iron them apart.

Clean up the outer cut edge all around.

Iron the trimmed raw edge over 1cm and stitch through.

Sew your matching zipper to the front facing, wrong sides together.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the sewn-in zipper.

Now look at the facings of the hem. Place the pieces right sides together and sew the side seams together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron the upper seam allowance of the hem facing 1cm over.

Sew both facings together, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances to the back.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the receipt processing.

Now you topstitch the front lining and zipper with the front part right sides together.

Now overturn the open cut edges on the front edge (tear) and the hem edge with the facings.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-quilted slip. Then iron the receipt inwards.

Turn the facings inside out and stitch the neck facing left sides together with an auxiliary seam to the neck hole.

Cut the rubber bands to the correct length (see pattern) and attach them to the markings on the pattern with an auxiliary seam.

Sew through the edge of the ironed slip and stitch it in place.

Sew the beginning and end of the elastic through both layers of fabric for better stabilization.

Sew an additional seam close to the edge on both sides next to the zipper.

We have a video for you about the stand-up collar processing.

Then you pick up the collars. Sew both pieces together, right sides together, iron out the curves nicely and fold down the outer collar by 1 cm.

I processed the collar from the inside out. So you sew the inside of the collar to the back facing, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances upwards.

From the outside, you then sew the outer collar just under the edge. So you have a neatly finished stand-up collar.

Finally, fix the inner facing to the shoulder seam allowance. This will prevent the receipt from unintentionally folding up.

You can also secure the pocket bags extra on the front slip.

Your MUBERA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de.

We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.