Nähanleitung Bluse “Mathilda”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS “MATHILDA” BLOUSE

The summer blouse Mathilda is easy to sew due to the raglan and the eye-catcher is clearly the slit upper arm seam. For this purpose, a piece of the seam is left open, the great thing is that everyone can vary the opening according to their taste. A narrow elastic band is pulled into the sleeve hem. You can combine the blouse casually with jeans, but sewn in silk, it can be quite elegant. Mathilda is definitely a great alternative to the summer shirt.

Length at center back = 65-71cm.

In this pattern, Mathilda was sewn from a polyester georgette.

Here are the instructions for the add-on

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose, or a polyester or silk satin.

Size 34-40 Material 1.50 m 140cm wide
Size 42-50 Material 1.75 m 140cm wide
Size 34-50 Elastic sleeves 50 cm 1 cm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x front part in break
  • 1x back part in break
  • 2x VT sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x RT sleeves in opposite directions
  • 1x neck strip

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Happy sewing!

First you sew off the bust darts in the front using the notches to the marked end. The dart content is ironed flat towards the top. With our fine goods we have trimmed the hem so that the fabric does not fray and is easier to work with later. This is not necessary with firmer materials because the hem is folded in twice during processing.

The sleeve pattern pieces are overcast at the upper arm seam, see marked lines.

Sew the upper and lower part of the upper arm seam (1cm seam allowance) up to 1cm beyond the open upper arm seam so that the ends of the upper arm slit do not fray.

Fold in and iron the seam allowance at the upper arm slit 2x1cm.

Topstitch the upper arm slit on the sides with 1cm and sew along the ends just above and below the opening. If the slit opens too far for you, you can lay it on top of the other at the point marked in the pattern and stitch together.

Sew the front raglan seam from the sleeve into the front armhole. Neat the seam allowances together.

Proceed in the same way with the back raglan seam.

Sew the underarm seam and the side seam in one step and neaten the seam allowances again.

Now we come to edging the neckline. Fasten the neck strip first. Now pin the right side of the neckline stripe to the wrong side of the bodice fabric and sew the stripe all the way around with a 1cm seam allowance.

Turn the neckline tab outwards and iron the 1cm seam allowance. Then place the strip around the seam allowance of the bodice so that the first seam is covered. If this is not the case, then cut back the seam allowance from the bodice a little. The strip is stitched on from the outside just below the edge.

Fold in the hem 2 x 0.7cm and topstitch from the outside, iron.

Turn in the sleeve hem 2 x 1cm and topstitch. Leave a gap in the quilting seam at the level of the underarm seam for the insertion of the elastic.

Using a small safety pin, thread the elastic into the sleeve hem. Then shorten the band to the desired length (plus seam allowance) and sew together.

Finally close the opening.

Your MATHILDA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen. 

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