Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing . Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After securing the interfacing, cut it out precisely. (There's also a video on gluing and securing pattern pieces here.)
You will need fabric:
- 1x back part in the fracture
- 2x back passes in the fracture
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x sleeves opposite
- 2x collar stays in the fold
- 1x upper collar in the fold
- 1x undercollar in the fold
- 4x strips
Also with insert:
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x bridge
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Have fun sewing!
First, take both front pieces and sew in the two bust darts. Iron these upwards, toward the armhole. 
Next, neaten the side seams of the front and back pieces, but only up to the slit. 
Next, we'll move on to the front pieces. Here, fold the button placket twice and iron it flat. Then, topstitch it. 
Now you need the back piece and the two yokes. Place the right side of the yoke on the left side of the back piece and sew them together at 0.5 cm. 
Then turn the whole thing over and place the other yoke, right sides together, on the other side of the back piece. Now sew these three layers together with a 1cm seam allowance, so the first seam is hidden. 
Fold both yokes upward and iron the seam neatly. A little tip: I stitched the yokes at a distance of the stitching foot from the seam (here: dotted line). 
Now the shoulders are closed. 
First, sew only the upper yoke to the respective front piece. 
Once you have done this with both shoulders, place your torso in front of you, just like in the picture. 
Next, roll the back piece up to the yoke seam. In the picture, you can see that the inner yoke is facing down. 
Do the same with the front pieces, then fold the upper shoulder edge onto the lower shoulder edge. 
Sew these three layers together. Then simply pull out the contents, and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances lie neatly between the inner and outer yokes. 
Next, we'll move on to the collar: Place both collar pieces together. Don't be surprised if one collar is a few millimeters larger than the other. This is intentional, as the small collar is the undercollar. So please don't trim away any of the upper collar; instead, pin the collars so that the width is maintained when sewing!
Now trim the collar seam allowance, trim the seam allowance on the closed edges to 0.7 cm, and trim the corner diagonally. Then turn the collar inside out. 
Little tip: I stitched the edge the width of my quilting foot. 
For the finished collar, you'll still need the two collar stays. Center the collar between the two stays, with the right sides of the fabric facing the collar. Make sure the notches are aligned at the center back. There's one more notch at the curve of the stay; the collar extends to this point (here: the notches are marked by pink lines). 
Now sew the collar and the stays together. A quick tip: Leave 1cm free at the beginning and end so you can attach the collar to the neckline more easily later. 
Before turning and ironing the bridge, trim half of the seam allowance at the curve and clip it in place. This is especially important at the front curve of the bridge. This will help the curve lay more neatly. 
A little tip: While ironing, I ironed the seam allowance of the inner bar by 1cm (the bar that was attached to the upper collar). 
Continue with the insertion: The collar is attached from the inside out. First, sew one of the collar stays to the neckline with a 1cm seam, so the right side of the stay is on the inside of the blouse. Then, press the seam allowance into the stay and tuck the ironed edge of the other stay so that it covers the seam you used to sew the first stay. 
Then, from the right side, sew the other bar in place all the way around, close to the edge. It's best to start stitching at the level of one of the shoulder seams. 
Close the side seams of the blouse up to the slit (seam allowance 1.5cm). 
Iron the slit allowance twice. Then you can also fold the hem twice and sew it in place. 
The slit is stitched all around (actually the hem should already be stitched!).
First, neaten the sleeve seam. Then fold the hem under twice and sew it in place. 
Only now do you close the sleeve (1.5 cm). Then iron the seam allowances open. 
Next, it's time to create the tunnels on both sides for the ribbons. The seam allowance is slightly wider at this point for this. It's best to sew the tunnels from the wrong side. To do this, just fold in the finishing seam and stitch it close to the edge. You now have a tunnel on both sides of the sleeve seam. 
For the drawstrings, you'll need the ribbons. You can make these in four steps:
You should sew the ribbons onto the armhole so that they don't slip when you insert the sleeve.
And now you're ready to sew the sleeves into the top. I've marked the pattern to show you which notch goes where. What's special about this pattern is that the sleeve seam isn't on the side seam of the top. 
If you follow the notches, inserting the sleeves will be a breeze. Finally, just neaten the seam allowance and press it into the sleeve. Add the buttonholes according to the pattern, making sure to do this on the right front piece (wearing). Sew the buttons on the left front piece in the same way. For vertical buttonholes, always position the buttons at the top of the buttonhole.