Our new Qamar blouse is ideal for warmer days, casual and with a long sleeve. The shape of a classic shirt blouse makes Qamar something very special thanks to the drawstrings in the underarm seams. You can vary the length of the sleeve using the straps. The graduated hem, longer at the back than at the front, and the high side seam slits also contribute to the sporty/playful look.
Length at center back = 76-78cm
The Qamar in these instructions was sewn from a flowing viscose.
We recommend a viscose or a light cotton fabric.
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. (There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut pieces here.)
What you need from fabric:
- 1x back part in the break
- 2x back yokes in the break
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x sleeves opposite
- 2x collar stays in the break
- 1x upper collar in the break
- 1x undercollar in the break
- 4x strips
also with insert:
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x bridge
To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Have fun sewing!
First, take both front pieces and sew in the two chest darts. You iron these upwards, towards the armhole.
Next, overcast the side seams of the front and back pieces, but only up to the slit.
We continue with the front parts. Here you fold the button placket twice and iron it flat. Then you topstitch them. Now you need the back piece and the two yokes. Place the right side of the yoke on the left side of the back piece and sew them together at 0.5cm. Then turn the whole thing over and place the other yoke, right sides together, on the other side of the back piece. These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so the first seam is hidden. You fold both yokes up and iron out the seam nicely. Small tip: I stitched the yokes a foot-width away from the seam (here: dotted line). Now the shoulders are closed. First, sew only the top yoke together with the respective front piece. Once you have done this with both shoulders, place your torso in front of you, just like in the picture. Next, roll the back piece up to the yoke seam. In the picture you can see that the inner yoke is facing down. Do the same with the front pieces, then fold the top shoulder edge onto the bottom shoulder edge.
You sew these three layers together. Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances lie neatly between the inside and outside yoke.
We continue with the collar: place both collar parts on top of each other. Don't be surprised if one collar is a few millimeters larger than the other. This is on purpose, because the small collar is the undercollar. So please don't cut anything away from the upper collar; rather, pin the collars so that the width is maintained when sewing!
Now trim the seam allowance from the collar, trim the seam allowance to 0.7cm on the closed edges and cut the corner diagonally, then turn the collar inside out.
A little tip: I stitched the edge to the width of a quilting foot. For the finished collar you still need the two bars. Place the collar in the middle between the two bars, with the bars facing the right side of the fabric towards the collar. Make sure that the clips are on top of each other in the middle back. There is another clip at the base of the bridge, the collar extends up to that point (here: clips marked by pink lines).
Now sew the stays and the collar together. A little tip: leave 1cm free at the beginning and end so that you can attach the collar to the neck hole better later. Before you turn and iron the bridge, cut half of the seam allowance on the curve and clip the seam allowance, this is especially important in the front curve on the bridge. This makes the curve more beautiful. A little tip: when ironing, I ironed the seam allowance on the inner bar with 1cm (the bar that was attached to the upper collar). Continue with the insertion: the collar is placed from the inside out. First, sew one bar onto the neck hole with 1cm, so the right side of the fabric of the bar is on the inside of the blouse. You then iron the seam allowance into the bridge and tuck the ironed edge of the other bridge so that it covers the seam with which you sewed the first bridge.
Then sew the other bar on the right side with a narrow edge all the way around. It's best to start stitching at one of the shoulder seams.
Close the side seams of the blouse up to the slit (seam allowance 1.5cm).
Iron the addition of the slit twice. You can then fold the hem in twice and sew it in place. The slit is stitched all around (actually the hem should already be stitched!).
First, finish the sleeve seam on the sleeve. Then fold the hem in twice and sew it tight. Only now do you close the sleeve (1.5cm). You then iron the seam allowances apart.
Then it's about creating the tunnel on both sides for the ribbons, but the seam allowance is a little wider at this point. It's best to sew the tunnels from the left side. To do this, just fold in the overcast seam and stitch it tightly to the edge. You now have a tunnel on both sides of the sleeve seam.
You still need the ribbons for the drawstrings. You make these in four steps:
- Iron halfway.
- Open it up again and iron the edges inwards (approx. 4mm), then iron the strip in the middle again and make sure that the ironed edges lie together.
- Fold over one end of the strips and sew them together. This neatens up the end wonderfully.
- Sew the strips together close to the edge on the open side. Make sure the bands are not wider than your finished tunnels.
And you're already sewing the sleeves into the top. I marked on the cut which clip goes where. The special thing about the cut is that the seam of the sleeve is not on the side seam of the top.
If you follow the clips, inserting the sleeves will happen by itself. Finally, just neaten the seam allowance and iron it into the sleeve. Work the buttonholes according to the pattern in the right front piece (tightened). Sew the buttons onto the left front piece accordingly; for vertical buttonholes, always position the buttons at the top end of the buttonhole.
Your QAMAR is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at firstname.lastname@example.org. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.