You can combine this slightly waisted, yet casual blouse with many different bottoms. The special detail is clearly the cuffs, the seam of the ruffled cuffs is covered by a fold. The collarless neckline is only processed with a narrow panel and is held by the tie at the neck.
Center back length = 64 -70 cm
Ronja was sewn from silk in this pattern.
cutting:
To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Happy sewing! First you gather the back part at the top: Sew with a large stitch and loosened upper thread tension at a distance of 0.6 and 0.8 cm between the two outer snaps along the seam allowance. At each end, leave the threads hanging a fair bit. Pull the upper thread and the track tightens. The length must match the yoke. Spread the ruffles evenly and knot the ends.
Sew one yoke to the back piece, right sides together, and then sew the second yoke right sides together so that the back piece has a yoke on each side, the seam allowances are between the yokes. Iron the seam gently to avoid flattening the ruffles. Topstitch the seam from the right.
Sew the darts in the front and iron them up.
Neat the front piece facing. If you have a particularly fine fabric, glue interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric where the lace ends. Pin the slip onto the front piece, right sides together. Make sure that the markings match.
Sew along the contour.
Cut down the middle to just before the tip. Turn the slip to the wrong side of the front piece and iron the seam flat. Stitch this edge close to the edge.
Sew the front piece and the outside yoke together at the shoulder seam, right sides together. Now sew the inside yoke against it so that the seam allowances are between the two yokes (you can find the perfect tip on how to easily sew in a yoke here in our sewing instructions for the Qamar blouse)
Iron the seam and topstitch it from the right side.
Sew the shoulder seams right sides together on all facing pieces, iron them apart. Iron a seam tape onto the neckline of a set of facing pieces (here: line in yellow).
Sew the two bands together at the narrower curve, right sides together. Turn the panel over and iron the seam.
Now pin the band right sides together on the inside of the neckline and sew it in place, paying particular attention to the snaps. Iron the seam allowances into the band. Also iron the seam allowance of the outer panel according to the pattern.
Pin the panel so that the stitching line is covered and stitch it up tightly, stitch the front edge and the neckline at the same time.
Sew the sleeves right sides together into the armholes, paying particular attention to the snap positions. Neat the raw edges together and press the seam allowance into the sleeve.
Now sew the blouse together at the side and sleeve seams, right sides together. Overcast and press the seam allowances into the front piece.
Iron the sleeve hems to the wrong side and unfold them again. Sew the sleeve ruffles together on the short sides, right sides together. Press the seam allowances apart and press the ruffle in half, right side out.
Gather the ruffle on the open side to match the sleeve hem.
Sew right sides together to sleeve hem, seams meet. Clean up the edges.
Fold the hem back in, the frill peeks out at the bottom. Sew the hem in place. Then carefully iron the hem and ruffle again.
Turn the ribbons over: Cut the ribbon in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the long sides together. Turn the ribbon by tying the sewing threads onto a darning needle or small safety pin and threading them between the layers of fabric, gently turning the ribbon inside out. Iron the ribbon flat.
Fold it in twice at each end.
Sew the upper ends to the markings on the panel and stitch the lower ends.
Now iron the hem of the blouse two times 1 cm inwards and sew it in place. See also the following detailed guide:
Fold the hem 1 cm to the left side and sew just next to this fold with a large stitch and loosened upper thread tension. It's best to do the front and back separately. Now pull on the upper thread, as when gathering, the hem folds inwards. At the side seam, where the curve goes up, you don't need to pinch, you should actually stretch a little. Push out any excess ruffles. Iron the hem piece by piece 1 cm inwards until the hem lies flat.
Now you can pull out the auxiliary threads and sew the hem in place.
Alternatively, you can overcast the hem and sew along the overcast seam with a large stitch and loosened upper thread tension. The principle is as described above, except that only once 2cm are folded inwards and sewn.
Your RONJA is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, Dagmar and Ellen.