After the successful cooperation with Manu from emilea.berlin on the hoodies Emilea and Emil and the jacket Svea , the fourth pattern was created in a further cooperation - the blouse Suvi . Suvi is a casual summer blouse with a very clear cut and no frills – just emilea.berlin. The special feature is definitely the double stripe in the front center, which is great for working with contrasting fabrics. The round neckline with a slit and the raglan sleeves complete this blouse style, which is just as convincing in a noble combination of lace and silk as in the sporty version made of linen or cotton.

Length at center back = 62-68 cm

Suvi was sewn from silk in this pattern.

Required material:

We recommend linen, silk or a light cotton.

Sizes 34-42 Outer fabric 1 1.00 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Outer fabric 1 1.40 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 outer fabric 2 0.70 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50

Sizes 34-50




1 piece

90 cm wide

8mm diameter


Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts . Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define the positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin n. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x back part in break
  • 2x front part in opposite directions
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x aperture-front opposite
  • 1x panel at the back in the break
  • 1x eyelet

also with insert and form band:

  • 1x document-back in the rupture
  • 2x slip front opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart content upwards.

Now take your cut front panel and place it, right sides together, on the front edge of the front part. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut.

The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the front.

Then neaten the center front from the hem up to 3 cm above the top knot in the pattern. The snap defines the length of the slit in the center front.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed front parts.

Now you can place both front pieces, right sides together, and close them up to the snap. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron the hem double in and over according to the notches on the pattern.

Next, close the dart (shoulder seam) of the opened sleeve, right sides together, up to the marking on the pattern.

The sleeve dart is then neatened together and the protruding threads of the ends pulled into the seam with a needle and neatened separately. The seam allowance is ironed to the front.

Iron the hem of the sleeve twice in and over according to the notches on the pattern.

Sew the sleeve seams, right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and press them to the back.

Now all you have to do is sew the double folded and folded hem close to the edge and your sleeves are done.

Now let's get to the evidence. The front facings are placed, right sides together, and closed up to the notch. You can iron or lay the seam allowances apart.

Then the lower cut edge of the front and back cover is trimmed.

Iron the clean cut edge of the front facing 1cm over.

Iron the clean cut edge of the back facing 1cm over.

A pulled-through roll is used to prepare the eyelet. There is also a video here in which Dagmar explains how it works.

Your eyelets for closing the center front are ready.

The finished roll is attached to the front right facing according to your button size. Pay attention to the markings in the cut.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed eyelet.

Now you sew the prepared front facing, right sides together, to the slit opening of the front part. Pay attention to the snaps and only stitch up to the previously sewn line.

The center front is neatly ironed out, as well as the turned-over slit in the front part.

Now the front and back sections can finally be sewn together at the side seams, right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

The previously prepared hem of the front and back sections is then stitched along the edge.

Now place your sleeves, right sides together, in the armhole. The seam allowances are overcast together and ironed into the sleeves.

The back facing is sewn to the front facing, right sides facing, and the seam allowances ironed apart.

Now you can stitch and secure the previously ironed cut edge of the slips with 0.8 cm.

The facings are placed, right sides together, at the neckline and stitched all around. The seam allowances must be snapped in so that the neckline curve can be laid flat.
Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Fasten your button in the right position. Pay attention to the marking in the cut.

Finally, the facing is stitched all the way around the front and back.

Your SUVI is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.

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