Nähanleitung Bluse Svenja

Sewing instructions blouse Svenja

---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---

Blouses or shirts, which top is your favorite? Blouses are ideal companions in the warm season, depending on the choice of fabric they have a cooling effect on the skin, the only disadvantage: cotton and viscose in particular tend to wrinkle, so they should be ironed after washing. Apart from the wide, pleated sleeves, Svenja's cut is pure and straight. The beautiful boat neckline and the strongly rounded hem finish complement the wide sleeves, which are gathered with an elastic band at the hem.

Length at center back = 65-71 cm

In these instructions, Svenja was sewn from a woven fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a light cotton or silk.

Sizes 34-42

  • Outer fabric 1.30 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

  • Outer fabric 1.60 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

  • Elastic band 0.50 m (1 cm wide)

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front, back and yoke in a fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x front part in break
  • 1x back part in break
  • 1x yoke at the back in the break
  • 1x neckline stripe in front in sloping FDL
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart content upwards.

Then lay the box pleat in the back according to the pattern in the center back and stitch it down with an auxiliary seam the width of a stitching foot.

Now you can also sew the yoke together with the back part right sides together and finish the seam allowances together. You can iron the trimmed seam allowances upwards and topstitch if necessary.

As a little trick to make the hem much easier to work with later, prepare the hem of the back and front sections as follows: Stitch an auxiliary seam 0.5 cm wide, as shown by the yellow line in the photo.

The front and back sections are well prepared and can be sewn together at the shoulders, right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

The side seam and the hem of the front part are neatened all around,…

...as well as the side seams and hem of the back part.

Here we show you that we "ruffle" the previously sewn auxiliary seam a little so that the distance of the curve is maintained. This is then ironed flat again and the hem can later be ironed upwards better.

Then you iron the hem 1.5 cm from the 1st knip to the opposite knip in the front part, as well as …

... in the back part around.

Sew both side seams, right sides together, from the front and back sections to the snap and press open the seam allowances.

The hem is stitched all around with 1cm.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how we processed the hem at the side seam.

Now we come to the neck strip. This is placed right sides together and sewn together. Iron the seam allowances apart...

... and the neckline strip left on left in the fold.

Then the neck strip is sewn together with an auxiliary seam the width of a stitching foot.

Now let's turn our attention to the sleeves of the blouse and begin to fold the folds as marked on the pattern and fasten them with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the folds in the sleeve cap.

The hem of the sleeves is prepared by ironing according to the pattern.

Then close the inner arm seam right sides together and neaten the seam allowances together. The seam allowances are ironed towards the back.

The hem is now folded in and out twice, stitched through and a small hole for the insertion of the elastic remains open.

Cut the elastic to the appropriate length for your upper arm circumference and attach to a safety pin. You push this into your open hole and along the tunnel.

The rubber is sewn together...

... and the opening closed.

The sleeve is finished and can be inserted and sewn right sides together in the armhole. Note the snaps in the pattern and the double snap that defines the back position of the sleeves. The seam allowances are overcast together and ironed into the sleeves.

Now only the neck band is missing, which is put right sides together in the neck hole and sewn on. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut. In our model, the seam is on the left shoulder seam.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also causes the neck strip to automatically lie inwards and not roll out. Only the neck strip is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

As a final step, the neck strip is turned inwards and stitched through from the right.

Your SVENJA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.

--> ENGLISH VERSION <--

Sewing tutorial blouse Svenja

Blouses or shirts, which top is your favorite? Blouses are ideal companions in the warm season, depending on the choice of fabric they have a cooling effect on the skin, the only drawback: especially cotton and viscose tend to wrinkle, so should be ironed after washing. The cut of Svenja is except for the wide, pleated sleeves pure and straight. The beautiful U- boat neckline and the strongly rounded hemline complement the wide sleeve, which is gathered with an elastic tape at the hem.

Length at center back = 65 - 71 cm

Svenja was sewn from a woven fabric in this tutorial.

Materials required:

We recommend a light cotton or silk.

Sizes 34-42

  • Outer fabric 1.30 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

  • Outer fabric 1.60 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

  • elastic tape 0.50 m (1 cm wide)

cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvages parallel to the center so you can place the front, back, and yoke-back at fabric fold . The pattern pieces should all lie with the lettering facing up. Always align the threadline arrow in the same direction for all pieces and parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Transfer all the snips from the pattern by making a 3mm incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric break because this is always a center. Marks define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer them either with chalk or pins.

You need fabric:

  • 1x front part in fabric fold
  • 1x back part in fabric fold
  • 1x yoke back in the fabric fold
  • 1x neckline tape in the front in the oblique FDL
  • 2x sleeves opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start with sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip, following the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the markings. (so that (so that the dart does not bag) closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew off too much or too little and the side seam finishes nice and straight.
So that you don't have to bar-tack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents to the top.

Place the box pleat in the back according to the pattern in the center back and topstitch it in place with an auxiliary seam.

Now you can also sew the yoke right sides together with the back piece and overcast the seam allowances together. If necessary, you can press the serged seam allowances upwards and topstitch them.

As a little trick to make the hem much easier to work later, prepare the hem of the back and front pieces as follows: Stitch an auxiliary seam 0.5 cm wide, as indicated by the yellow line in the photo.

The front and back pieces are well prepared and can be sewn together right sides together at the shoulders. The seam allowances are serged together and ironed according to back .

The side seam and the hem from the front piece are serged all around,...

...as well as the side seams and hem of the back.

Here we show you that we previously sewn Hilsnaht something "gather" and so the distance of the rounding is kept. This is then again ironed flat and the hem can be better ironed up later.

Then press the hem 1.5cm from the 1st notch to the opposite notch in the front, as well as ...

... in the back.

Close both side seams right sides together from the front and back to the snap and press the seam allowances apart.

The hem is topstitched with 1cm all around.

Here you can see a detail photo of how we finished the hem at the side seam.

Now we come to neckline tape. This is placed right sides together and sewn together. Press the seam allowances apart...

... and the neckline tape left to left in the fold.

Then the neckline tape is sewn to each other with an auxiliary seam quilting foot width.

Let's now turn our attention to the sleeves of the blouse and start with the pleating as marked in the pattern and fasten it with a topstitching foot-wide auxiliary seam.

Here you can see a detail photo of the folds in the arm ball.

The hem of the sleeves is prepared by ironing around according to the pattern.

Then close the inner arm seam right sides together and serge the seam allowances together. The seam allowances are ironed according to back .

The hem is now folded in and over twice, topstitched through and a small hole is left open for the elastic to feed in.

Cut the elastic tape to the appropriate length for your upper arm circumference and attach it to a safety pin. Slide it into your open hole and along the drawstring.

The elastic tape is sewn together...

... and the opening closed.

The sleeve is finished and can be pinned and sewn right sides together in the armhole. Pay attention to the notch in the cut and the double notch, which defines the back position of the sleeve. The seam allowances are serged together and ironed into the sleeve.

Now all that's missing is the neckband, which is tucked right sides together into the neckline and sewn in place. Pay attention to the notch in the cut. In our model, the seam is on the left shoulder seam.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only facilitates the final ironing out but also causes the neckline tape to automatically lay inside and not roll out. Only the neckline tape is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The quilting line is then only visible from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

As a final step, the neckline tape is still placed inside and stitched through from the right.

Your SVENJA is ready !

If you get stuck, or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours Sewing Pattern Berlin Team.

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