SEWING INSTRUCTIONS CUT-OUT BLOUSE “NOEMI”

Blouses and tops with cut-outs are very fashionable, so we don't want to withhold this special look from you. Noemi not only has the cut-outs on the shoulders and the front neckline as a highlight, the sleeve hem is a little bell-shaped thanks to an inserted godet. Since sleeve details are still a big topic, Noemi has become an absolute must-have and can be perfectly combined with skirts and trousers. The cut-outs are not easy to work with, so Noemi is more for advanced sewers.

Length at center back = 66-74cm

TIP: If you prefer a closed shoulder, these lines are included in the pattern with a corresponding note.

In these instructions, Noemi was sewn from viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose, silk or polyester satin.

Sizes 34-40	outer fabric	1.40 m	140cm wide
Sizes 42-50	outer fabric	1.80 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.30 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Buttons	2x	8mm diameter

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric . Lay the fabric open with the right side of the fabric facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front piece, front facing and front facing in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Snip the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut out all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining . After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 1x front part in break
• 2x back piece in opposite directions
• 2x cut out receipt (VT&RT in one) in opposite directions
• 1x button loop
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x sleeve godet
• 2x sleeve receipt opposite

also with insert:

• 2x front panel in break
• 1x receipt-front in break
• 4x aperture rear each 2x opposite
• 1x cut-out lace in the front part

also with forming tape (only stick the inner panel):

• 2x inner panel at the back of the neckline
• 1x inner panel in front of the neck hole

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing! 

We start by sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart content upwards.

The hem of the front part is neatened and then ironed 1cm.

The tip of the neckline is glued with an extra insert before processing with the neckline slip.

The fold-cut slip for the neckline is trimmed at the lower cut edge...

...and then, right sides together, placed on the front piece and turned over. For lace, seam allowances are cut in with scissors. The seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

We also cut away the top corners of the receipt. This is good for thicker fabrics.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see an extra detailed photo of the flat-quilted slip.

This is what the neckline of your blouse looks like from the inside.

The center back of the back sections are neatened individually from the hem to the beginning of the slit.

Then both back parts are placed, right sides together, and closed with 1cm. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

The hem of the back part is neatened and then ironed 1cm.

The slit in the back is folded in and out twice, each 1cm.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the ironed slit. Preferably, you should then topstitch this just below the edge.

The shoulder seams of the front and back are trimmed individually. Then place the front piece, right sides together, on the back piece and sew the shoulders together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

Iron the lower curve of the inner panels around 1cm.

Then both the outer and inner panels are placed, right sides together, and the shoulder seams are closed. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

The inner panel is placed, right sides together, on the outer panel and sewn together. Make sure the shoulder seams meet neatly. The seam allowances are cut so that the curve lies nicely.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the inner band automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not stitched separately. Only the inner panel is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched seam allowance. The panel is then placed, left to left, and ironed flat.

We'll tell you a little sewing trick so that you can later sew the panel onto your fuselage without any problems! You sew an auxiliary seam, with a larger stitch, very close to the inner band. Be careful not to accidentally sew the panels together.

Here you can see a detailed photo with the suggested auxiliary seam.

For the eyelets, you can also watch our sewing video for the pulled-through roll.

The strip, cut diagonally, is laid right sides together in the fold. Beginning at the top with the seam and leaving a wider opening (school cone), shrink and topstitch the width of your stitching foot to the break. The roll can be pulled through with a thick thread and a large needle. Insert the blunt end of the needle into the opening and pull through the seam allowance.

Your eyelets for the two buttons in the panel are ready.

The finished eyelets are placed on the markings in the pattern on the right side of the body and sewn, taking the button size into account. Then place the short sides (middle back) of the panel, right sides together, and sew them together.

This is what your panel on the right side of your body looks like.

Since we haven't closed the side seams of the fuselage yet, it's easy to sew on the panel. Pin the panel to the body with pins and then sew 1mm (to the inside) next to your auxiliary seam, so you can be sure that you will later hit the ironed hem edge when “stitching through” and thus secure it.

Now you can finally close the panel by stitching through the edge seen from the right and sewing on the inner panel at the same time.

The cut-out facings of the front and back parts, as well as the facings on the sleeves, are trimmed at the lower edge.

The cut-out facings are placed, right sides together, on the cut-outs of the front and back pieces and sewn on. The seam allowances are snapped in.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

The sleeve facings are also placed, right sides together, on the cut out of the sleeve and sewn in place. The seam allowances are also snapped in here.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Fasten the sleeves right sides together with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm up to the snap of the godet.

The hems of the godet and sleeves are turned in and turned up twice, 0.5 cm. Since the curve of the godet is very round, it may help you to stitch a 0.5 cm seam and hold it in place by pulling the lower thread.

Then the ironing is stitched through and through with a tight edge.

Here you can see a detail photo of the hems of the godet and sleeves.

Now the godet can be placed, right sides together, on the inner arm seam and closed with 1.5 cm.

Only now is the inner arm seam trimmed. The arm is individually overcast and ironed apart, while the godet is overcast along with the inner arm seam. The upper tip of the godet is hammered in and prevented from fraying.

This is what the hem of the finished godet looks like. The threads of the overcast seam are pulled up and hidden with a large needle.

This is what your godet sleeve looks like after you have processed it.

Place the front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together, and close the side seams with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

The prepared hem is stitched through with 0.8 cm.

The sleeve can now be placed in the prepared torso, right sides together, and stitched through. Open the receipts and continue tapping there. The seam allowances of the sleeve are then neatened together.

Now you can stitch the slips through and through. To do this, you iron everything into position and pin down the receipts on the left. So nothing can slip.

Stitch the receipts.

Finally, you sew the two buttons on the panel in the back part.

Your NOEMI is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.