Sewing instructions fur vest Natascha

The Natascha waistcoat is very easy to work with, with lining all around, only the button placket made of contrasting fabric is a bit more sophisticated. We chose the tone-on-tone insert in smooth wool, but instead sewed on a colorful border of the right width - a really great effect! So your creativity is required here, everyone will definitely find colorful ribbons/borders in their sewing fund. Depending on the choice of fabric and border, the waistcoat looks rustic or folkloric.

Length at center back 46-54 cm

In these instructions, Natascha was sewn from artificial fur.

→ To the pattern “Natascha”

Required material:

We recommend a soft faux fur (long hair) or coarse knitwear and contrasting fabric for the button panel used (wool, knitwear).

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 0.60m (140cm wide)

• Lining 0.60m (140cm wide

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 0.70m (140cm wide)
• Lining 0.70m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Fabric contrast 0.35m (140cm wide)
• Cord 0.30m approx. 5mm diameter
• Buttons 5 x 1.5cm in diameter
• Border 0.70 m, 6 cm wide

In advance for you as information:

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer and lining fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the back piece in the fabric and lining in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

If you want to make your Natascha out of corduroy, then note that corduroy is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Natascha out of checked fabric, Dagmar will show you the best way to cut out checked fabric in this video.

You need from fabric:

• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 1x back part in break
• 4x use in front of the same

From lining you need:

• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 1x back part in break

also with band:

• 2x front armholes
• 2x front part cutout
• 2x back armholes
• 1x back part cutout

Sewing instructions:

You will need a sewing machine to sew this vest.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

This is our border, consisting of quilted narrower decorative bands. These are fixed next to each other, so the straps cannot slip when sewn onto the insert.

Sew the prepared insert onto the front piece right sides together and cut in the corners. At corners, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The corners spread apart when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the corner and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

It continues with the sewing of the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Also sew a panel of outer fabric to the front piece of lining fabric. At corners, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The corners spread apart when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the corner and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Here you can see the sewn-in and ironed insert in the lining.

It continues with the sewing of the bust darts in the front part of the lining. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

The center front of the vest is closed with eyelets and buttons. In this video, Dagmar explains how to best process the eyelets.

Sew five eyelets a foot's width onto the panel in the lining, right side of the body, according to the positions on the pattern. (In our pattern there are only 4 buttons)

Here you can see the sewn-on eyelets.

Now, right sides together, overturn the front edge of the lining and fabric front piece.

Also sew the neckline of the back parts of the lining and outer fabric right sides together. Snap a little on sharp curves.

Now you can close the shoulder seam in one go, right sides together, from the front and back pieces.

Then the seam allowances of the front edge and the neckline are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Place the lining fabric right sides together on the outer fabric and sew the armholes together all the way around.

Then the seam allowances of the armholes are flat-stitched from both sides and as far as you can get at them. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Close the hems of the front and back pieces, right sides together, of the lining and outer fabric. Then the seam allowances of the front hems and the back hem are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Sew the right side seam of the front and back pieces, right sides together. To do this, grab the side seams to be worked on through the back left side seam and sew them together.

Work the left side seam as far as you can get. A piece of the side seam in the lining remains open.

Here you can see a detail photo of the left side seam.

Close the opening in the lining with just the edges together.

Finally, you sew five buttons (four in our pattern) to the front edge and tie raised seam allowances through the lining and outer fabric: at the shoulder point, neckline shoulder point, armpit point and side seam hem.

Your NATASCHA is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.