Sewing instructions for the Aimee dress

Our Aimee dress pattern is perfect for those really hot summer days. With a halter neckline, back cutout, and wide, flowing, knee-length skirt, it sits comfortably loose and airy. A beautiful print really sets this dress off.

Length in the center back = 82 - 84 cm (back neckline)

The Aimee dress is a slightly more elaborate but very chic summer dress with a zipper, halter neck tie, and two integrated boning at the back. This example was sewn from a flowing cotton fabric and a lining fabric.

→ To the dress pattern “ Aimee”

Required materials:

We recommend a lightweight fabric like cotton, viscose, or silk. If it's opaque, you can skip the lining, but then double up the top for finishing.

For all sizes:

• Outer fabric 2.00m (140cm wide)
• Lining 2.00m (140cm wide)
• Elastic band 1 x 46cm (1cm wide)
• Seam zipper 1 x 35cm
• Plastic sticks 2 x 16cm long

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from fabric and transfer the notches from the pattern. The colored clips in the pictures, in addition to the description, show you where to sew a seam.

• 1x upper VT in the fold (outer fabric & lining)
• 1x front skirt part in the fold (outer fabric & lining)
• 1x medium RT in the fold (outer fabric & lining)
• 1x side RTs opposite (outer fabric & lining)
• 1x back skirt part in the fold (outer fabric & lining)
• 1 concealed zipper
• 1 rubber band
• 2 sticks

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Transfer the dart markings to the front piece (see pins). Place the two side pins right sides together and pin in place.

The left needle indicates where the dart should end. Sew your dart along these pins. Sew the four darts with your sewing machine. When you get close to the end, choose a very small straight stitch so you don't need to tack the seam end. Fold the darts upward, press them, and pin them in place for later.

Fold the side back panel right sides together onto the center back panel and sew it in place. Repeat this process four times. There's an extra special feature for the lining: Sew another seam 2-3mm from the open edge, creating a narrow tunnel inside the front panel. Carefully insert the boning into this.

Tunnel Variant 1
Sew the tunnels at the top and bottom with a few stitches so the boning can't slip out. Place the finished upper back piece, right sides together, on the upper front piece and close the future right side seam (on the left in the picture). The future left side seam remains open for the zipper. So I know which one stays open, I've marked it with purple staples. Repeat this with the lining. Just make sure the other side seam stays open here, as the lining will later be positioned opposite the outer fabric.

Place the upper lining piece right sides together on the outer fabric and sew the top back edge and both armholes. Leave the left side seam open, as well as the top front edge.

Place your elastic band along the top edge of the back of the outer fabric, on the wrong side, directly under the seam. On the left, at the already closed side seam, sew the elastic band to the side seam near my finger with a few stitches. Then, fold the lining back over the elastic, wrong sides together, and sew a tunnel about 1.3 mm wide. Be careful not to sew the elastic in place; it should be freely movable. Obviously, you can't sew over the boning, so you'll need to bartack the seam before and after each boning.

Tunnel variant 2
Leave about 2.5cm of the tunnel open at the top, as this is where the elastic will be sewn in place later. Sew the tunnels closed at the top and bottom with a few stitches so the boning can't slip out. Place the finished upper back piece, right sides together, on the upper front piece and close what will become the right side seam (on the left in the photo). The left side seam will remain open for the zipper. To know which one will remain open, I've marked it with purple clips.

Repeat this with the lining. Just make sure that the other side seam remains open, as the lining will later be facing the outer fabric.

Place the upper lining piece, right sides together, on the outer fabric and close the top back edge and both armholes. Leave the left side seam open here, as well as the top front edge. Place your elastic band on the top edge of the back of the outer fabric, on the wrong side, directly below the seam. On the left, at the already closed side seam, sew the elastic band to the side seam with a few stitches. Then, fold the lining back over the elastic, wrong sides together, and sew a tunnel about 1.3 mm wide. Be careful not to sew the elastic in place; it should be able to move freely.

Continue with both variants
Sew the other end of the elastic band about 1.5 cm from the side edge, as this is where the zipper will be sewn in later. You can see this again in detail here. I sewed the end of the elastic band where the needle goes.

Measure along the side seam of the skirt to where your zipper will extend. Sew the two side edges together, right sides facing, on what will be the left side, just below this point. Sew the other side seam completely. Do the same for the lining fabric – but in reverse.

Fold the lining of the outer dress away from the outer fabric, as this is when the skirt pieces will be sewn to the top pieces. Now sew the skirt piece of the outer fabric, right sides together, to the bottom edge of the upper outer dress, from the open side seam to the other open side seam. Position the seam allowances opposite the already closed side seam for a neat finish.

Then fold the outer fabric aside so that your lining is facing you with the right side facing up. Now place the skirt lining piece on top, right sides together, and sew it from the open side seam to the other. Place the seam allowances opposite the already closed side seam for a neat finish.

Neaten the edges of the still open side seams where the zipper will now be sewn. Place the zipper right side up. Note: With a concealed zipper, the teeth are at the bottom, not the top. Open the zipper a good bit and then place the piece lying underneath, right side up, onto the right side of the outer fabric above.

Starting directly at the top seam transition from the lining to the outer fabric, fold the top end outward at a right angle. Then pin this zipper piece to the entire open side edge of the outer fabric, with the teeth facing inward and upward.

Now take the lining at the top edge and place it exactly on top of the zipper, ensuring the seam transition stays at the highest point. Pin the lining all the way to the end of the zipper.

Sew the zipper on with your zipper foot. Make sure all three edges are perfectly aligned.

Repeat this with the other zipper half on the other side of the dress. Then close the small open gap in the side seam of both the outer fabric and the inner fabric.

If you start the bottom side seam of the dress just before the end of the zipper, you will get a clean transition.

Neaten the hem of both the outer fabric and the lining. Fold the seam allowance of both the lining and outer fabric inward and stitch them in place. Neaten the two remaining open top edges together.

Fold the top edge inward along the pattern markings and stitch it in place. This creates your tunnel.

Fold the tie in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew all open edges. Leave a small opening in the middle through which you can then turn the tie. After turning, iron the tie flat and topstitch it all the way around, keeping it close to the edge. This automatically closes the opening.

Using a safety pin, pull the ribbon through the tunnel. Tie the ribbon into a bow at the back of your neck, gathering the drawstring a bit if you like.

This is what your dress looks like from the back. Congratulations, the AIMEE dress is finished!

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.