You can sew the puristic, collarless coat from different fabrics, faux fur, boucle, boiled wool or thick knit. The coat closes with 5 hooks at the front and has side seam pockets in which your hands can snuggle. He is cut straight and not too lavish.
Length at center back = 90 - 92 cm
In these instructions, Lara was sewn from a thick wool fabric and a lining fabric.
Required material:
We recommend Walkware, thick knit fabric or faux fur.
| Size 34-42 | outer fabric | 2.00 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 34-42 | lining fabric | 1.70 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 44-50 | outer fabric | 2.40 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 44-50 | lining fabric | 1.95 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | hooks and eyes | 5 pieces | sew on by hand |
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and lining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the facing in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
A few words about the choice of material:
- If you're using faux fur for the coat, you'll only cut off the bottom of the fabric and not the hair. Also, it cannot be ironed.
- Some fabrics, such as boiled wool, have a nice wrong side. With these, you can omit the lining and trim the seams with the overlock or edging with a bias binding.
- If you want to use fur, you have to comb out the finished seams with a comb on the right side of the fabric to pull the hair out of the seam.
- If you decide on a wool fabric, you should definitely glue the inserts to the parts according to the pattern (including the neck and armholes).
- With some fabrics - as in this example - it is sufficient to provide the edges with an ironable forming tape according to the pattern.
You need from fabric:
- 1x front piece in opposite directions
- 1x reverse part
- 1x sleeve opposite
- 1x front document opposite
- 1x back document in breakage
- Depending on the choice of fabric, iron-on fleece or ironable forming tape
- 6 eyelets and hooks
You need from feed:
- 1x front piece in opposite directions
- 1x back in break
- 1x sleeve opposite
- 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
Sewing instructions:
You will need a sewing machine to sew this coat.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!
First we sew the outer jacket: Place the two back parts right sides together and close the back seam.
Place the darts of the front piece right sides together and sew them inwards from the neckline.
Place the two front pieces right sides together on the back piece and sew the shoulder seams.
Sew the side seams of your coat right sides together as well. Leave out the area of the snaps (for the pocket bag).
Place the pocket bag right sides together on the side seam between the snaps and sew it in place. Do the same with the counterpart on the other side seam.
Fold the pocket pouches inside out and sew them right sides together at the curve.
Place the sleeves right sides together and sew the side seam.
Place the sleeves inside the coat, right sides together, so the side seams meet exactly. Sew around the armhole. Repeat these steps on the other side of the coat.
Lay the two front facing pieces right sides together on the back facing and close the shoulder seams.
Lay the receipts right sides together on the outer jacket. Transfer the markings for the eyelets and hooks using the pattern.
Place the hooks/eyes between both layers of fabric.
When sewing on the facing, make sure that you sew slowly in the area of the hooks/eyelets and use a larger stitch so that the needle does not break on them. It's also a good idea to use your machine's zipper foot for the hooks.
This is what a hook sewn on looks like. Your outer coat is ready, let's continue with the lining.
Transfer the markings for the lining fold to the back and sew the fold right sides together vertically from the top and bottom for 3cm each.
Then it's the turn of the darts: transfer the markings for the dart to the front piece.
Place the two side needles right sides together and pin this in place. The left needle shows where the dart should end.
Sew the two darts with your sewing machine and, when you get close to the end, choose a very small straight stitch so you don't have to bartack the end of the seam. Fold up the darts, iron them and pin them in place for later.
As with the outer coat, close the shoulder, side and arm seams and the armholes right sides together. Leave a turning opening of about 10cm on one forearm.
Pin and sew the lining around the facing and hem of the outer coat.
To close the cuffs, lay the two matching sleeves of lining and outer fabric in front of you. The coat is on the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure the sleeves are not twisted.
Mark the side seam and the opposite point on both sleeves. Fold the hem of the outer sleeve up a little and put the inner sleeve over it, right sides together.
Sew the arm hem all the way around. This method is known to some sewers as "kissing trunks". Repeat these steps with the other sleeve.
Turn your coat right side out. Using the pattern, fold the hem of the outer coat up and stitch it down with a few stitches at the two side seams and the center back so that it doesn't fold down later.
You do the same with the shoulder seams of the outer jacket and the facings.
Close the turning opening of the sleeve tightly.
Your LARA is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
