In addition to negligees and dressing gowns, pajamas are no longer just something for bed, but are also suitable for everyday wear, the office and parties. Our Patrizia pajama blouse has a more classic fit, but is still casual enough to match its name. The rounded lapel collar, the shirt sleeves with slits and cuffs are quite a sewing challenge. To top off the sophisticated workmanship, you can sew a finished piping tape in a contrasting color into the edges of the collar, lapels and front edge. Length at center back = 62-70 cm.
The chic and elaborate Patricia blouse was sewn in these instructions from a cotton fabric with viscose content.
→ To the pattern “Blouse Patricia”
Required material:
We recommend soft, flowing materials such as viscose, silk or polyester satin
| Size 34-40 | Outer fabric | 1.45m | 140cm wide |
| Size 42-50 | Outer fabric | 1.70 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | inlay | 0.75m | 90cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | Buttons | 9 pieces | 10mm diameter |
| Size 34-50 | Piping tape | 2.00 m |
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces out of fabric and transfer the clips from the pattern. In addition to the description, the colorful brackets in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn.
You need:
- 1x front part opposite
- 1x front receipt opposite
- 1x back part in the break
- 1x lower collar in the break
- 1x upper collar in break
- 1x sleeve opposite
- 2x cuff
- 2x diagonal strips
- 1x bag
- 1x pocket receipt
- Piping tape and buttons
Sewing instructions
Place the clips for the dart right sides together and mark the tip.
Now sew inwards from the side and, just before the tip of the dart, reduce the straight stitch to around 1.0-1.5mm, so you don't need to backtack the seam. Press the dart upwards.
The blouse has a breast pocket on the left side. Neaten all edges of the pocket and the pocket facing.
Pin the piping tape to the top edge of the bag, right sides together, and fold the ends upwards.
Position the pocket facing on top, right sides together, and sew the two sides and the top edge together. Turn the bag right side out and press the seam allowance of the lower curve inwards.
Using the pattern, position the bag on the left front piece and sew it onto the sides and curve.
Iron the bag nice and flat.
Place a front piece and the matching facing piece in front of you. Neaten the inside edge of the facing (red brackets), as well as the short shoulder seam and the bottom edge of the front piece up to the corner (blue brackets). Also neaten the hem of the back of your blouse.
Lay the piping tape from the clip (red clip here) right sides together along the front edge down to the mark in the pattern (where you will later hem the bottom edge). Pin it securely and place the facing on top, right sides together. Sew this pinned area in place, leave the needle stuck in the fabric at the bottom mark, lift the foot, turn the fabric layers so that you can now continue sewing the bottom edge to the end of the facing.
On the curve it is helpful to tuck in the seam allowance just before the seam. Turn the front piece right side out and iron it well.
Repeat this for the other front piece.
Thanks to the bottom “notch” and your seam, the hem automatically folds up by its hem allowance and you get a clean finish. Press the remaining hem inwards.
Place both front pieces right sides together on the back piece and close the shoulder seams without sewing in the facing.
Now prepare the collar of your blouse: place the two collar parts right sides together. From the bottom left edge up to the bottom right edge, insert another piping tape between the two layers.
Close this seam where the piping tape goes.
Turn the collar right side out and iron it nicely. On the curves it is helpful to tuck in the seam allowance just before the seam.
Iron the two bottom edges of the collar inwards, leaving the seam allowance. Then, pin the edge of the lower collar to the neck hole, right sides together, starting and ending exactly where the facing's piping begins.
Sew the lower collar to the neck hole.
Now take the top end of the receipt...
... and place it over the base of the collar, right sides together, on the seam you just closed.
Pin this in place and sew it right along the seam. Repeat on the other side.
Place the remaining seam allowance of the collar inward, towards the collar, and pin the ironed bottom edge of the upper collar section onto it.
Sew this in place.
Then close the side seams of your blouse right sides together and iron the hem allowance of the back inwards.
Stitch the hem of your blouse tightly from facing to facing.
Now it's the turn of the sleeves. Each sleeve has two clips for a pleat and a slit.
Pin the right side of the bias strip to the left side of the slit. When sewing, make sure that you leave the needle in the fabric at the end point of the slit, lift the foot and turn the fabric without creating a fold. Sew on the rest of the strip.
Place the sleeve on its right side in front of you. The seam allowance looks towards the bias strip. Fold the top edge inwards up to the seam allowance...
... and then over the seam again. Sew this tight.
To ensure that the beginning of the slit is laid out nicely, it is helpful to briefly stitch the diagonal strip there from the left at a 45° angle.
This way one half of the slot fits nicely over the other.
Place the fold toward the slit and pin in place.
Close the side seam of the sleeve with right sides together.
Iron the cuff in the middle and the top and bottom edges inwards around the seam allowance.
Pin the cuff at the top edge to the end of the arm, right sides together. It protrudes by 1cm at both ends.
Sew the cuff in place.
Now place one side in the middle of the ironing edge, right sides together, and close the seam. It goes directly past the slot (pin). Trim the seam allowance back a little, repeat this with the other side seam and then turn the cuff right side out.
If you sew accurately, you will get a clean transition from slit to cuff. Place the still open ironed edge of the cuff over the seam...
... and pin it securely. Sew this side tight.
Repeat these steps on the other sleeve.
Tuck the matching sleeve into your blouse, right sides together. Make sure that the respective side seams (red staples) and the shoulder seam meet directly with the marking in the pattern. Sew the arm ball all around. Do the same with the other sleeve.
Transfer the buttonhole markings to the flap of your cuff and sew the buttonholes with your machine.
Repeat this for the other sleeve. Then sew two buttons on each of the underlays. Repeat the same thing when going over and under the two front parts.
Congratulations, your blouse Patricia is ready!
The post sewing instructions for the blouse “Patricia” first appeared on Blog Sewing Pattern Berlin .
