SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SHIRT “HANIFA”

Our pattern for the Hanifa blouse is a casual shirt blouse that belongs in every wardrobe. The concealed button placket and yoke at the back complete this blouse classic.

Center Back Length = 78-82cm

In this pattern, Hanifa was sewn from a soft and shiny viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing silk, viscose or polyester fabric.

Sizes 34-38	outer fabric	1.60 m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.60 m	90 cm wide
	Buttons	11 pcs	1cm diameter
Sizes 40-50	outer fabric	2.20 m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.60 m	90 cm wide
	Buttons	12 pcs	1cm diameter

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the yoke, back piece, collar stand, lower and upper collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or with chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that from size 42 bust darts must be processed. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

 

You need from fabric:

• 1x back part in break
• 2x yoke at the back in the break
• 1x front part on the right
• 1x front left
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x ribbon slot

also with insert:

• 2x collar stand in break
• 1x upper collar in break
• 1x undercollar in break
• 2x cuff in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

For the preparation, the front pieces are ironed first. The underlap, so to speak the left front part, is ironed over. To do this, fold the front edge in twice and turn it over.

The buttons will be sewn on later, which is why it doesn't have to be extra stitched, because the buttons will later fix the underlap.

What is special about our Hanifa blouse is the concealed button placket on the top step, which is basically the right front part. This is also prepared by ironing. To do this, iron the second snap from the front edge, left to wrong.

Another ironing is done on the 4th snap from the front edge. What has already been ironed remains ironed and folded.

This is how the result looks after ironing in close-up.

After we have prepared this, clip 1 and clip 3 are now on top of each other. At this point, the ironed piece is ironed back to the front edge. This is how a hidden button placket comes about. Note here that the understep must be shorter so that it does not flash out. That's why the distances between the snaps are of different lengths.

This is how the result looks after ironing in close-up.

Finally, the hidden button placket is still stitched (securing) by sewing a seam, which is stitched exactly in the fold of the previously ironed piece.

Please note that from size 42 breast darts have to be processed. If you are a smaller size, you can skip the next two steps.

We continue with the sewing of the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart content upwards.

Our Hanifa blouse has a box pleat in the center back. Lay them out according to the pattern and topstitch them with an auxiliary seam. The pattern piece for the upper back is called the yoke. The back part can be sewn on with folds or ruffles. The yoke often ends at the shoulder seam, but can also be brought forward a little.

Fits can be straight, slanted or pointed. If you look at a piece of clothing from the inside, you will see that the yoke is doubled, i.e. a yoke is counter-sewn from the inside. The seams are so nicely hidden and are clean.

First you pin the yoke parts to the back part with pins. The back part is enclosed by the yokes. Place the yoke, which will be on the outside, right sides together. Place the inner yoke with the right side on the left side of the back piece.

The clip in the center back allows you to stack all pattern pieces well. Starting from the center back, use pins to stick left and right to the end of the seam.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so that the first seam is covered.

You fold the outer yoke up and iron the seam nicely. The next step is to connect the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. First sew only the outer yoke with the respective front parts, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances to the back.

Here we have photographed the other side for a better understanding. The inner yoke is visibly folded down. The inner yoke is folded to the shoulder seam. Then you crawl from the open neckline into the shoulder seam, grab the 3 seam allowances. Sew these three layers together. The outer yoke is right sides together on the front piece and the inner yoke is right sides together on the front piece. Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances point backwards, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inner and outer yokes.

Iron the whole thing flat, being careful not to flat iron the inverted fold.

To continue working, we stapled the layers together at the neckline and armholes with a large stitch. So nothing moves anymore.

A little tip: We've topstitched the yokes just a little bit away from the seam.

The side seams are closed, right sides together. Then neaten the seam allowances together and iron to the back.

The sleeve has a cuff with a so-called rolled-in slit. Start slot processing. To do this, place the slit strip, right sides together, under the incision in the sleeve. Place both under your sewing machine and sew the strip in place, starting at 0.7 cm, with the same edges as the incision. At the top of the cut the seam allowance is only approx. 2mm and ends at 0.7cm again. This means the incision goes straight from 0.7cm to 0.2cm and back to 0.7cm while the seam allowance of the fly strip always stays the same distance (see photo). 

The split strip is then ironed over.  To finish the slit, the slit strip only has to be folded in and out twice and stitched through just under the edge from the right side.

Now you can fix the upper corner of the slit on the inside of the sleeve with a seam running diagonally upwards .

Now the slit can be finished and ironed to the right side. The top step is ironed once and stitched. The understep stays flat. The upper photo is of the left arm for orientation, a slit can always be opened backwards when tightened. Cut the fly strip at the beginning and end to the correct length of the sleeve.

After the slit has been processed, the folds of the sleeve can be folded up as shown in the pattern. Use the snaps and the directional arrows in the cut as a guide. Secure the folds with a seam that is the width of a quilting foot.

Now close the sleeve seam and neaten the seam allowances. These are then ironed backwards.

There are two variants for cuff processing. The first variant is the simpler one, in which you stitch the cuff all the way around the edge. But if you don't want any quilting on your cuffs and you're a sewing professional, then dare to try the second variant.

Variant 1: Iron the lower cut edge of the inner cuff with 1cm around...

... and sew the raw edge of the outer cuff to the prepared sleeve. Sew up to the notch of the understep. The upper photos are for orientation of the right arm, a cuff can always be tightened and opened backwards.

The cuff is then placed, right sides together, against the fold and the corners of the top and bottom flaps are stitched. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Finally, sew the previously ironed raw edge of the inner cuff firmly by stitching the entire cuff from the outside (right side of the fabric) all around the edge.

Variant 2: Sew the raw edge of the outer cuff to the prepared sleeve. Sew up to the notch of the understep. The upper photos are for orientation of the right arm, a cuff can always be tightened and opened backwards. Fold the marked corners on the photo together, against the break, right sides together. To topstitch the corners, slide the fabric away from the sleeve so you don't accidentally sew the sleeve on.

Stitch the corners of the top and bottom step. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

Finally, you sew the hole on the inner cuff by stitching from the outside (right side of the fabric) in the shadow of the seam and rolling the seam allowance of the hole slightly outwards, it is best to pin this spot with extra needles. Or sew up the hole by hand, that's also an option.

Now the sleeve is complete and can be sewn into the prepared torso, right sides together. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut. The seam allowances are overcast together and ironed into the sleeves.

The hem is folded in and out twice with 0.5 cm and almost the edge is stitched through.

Now we come to the processing of the shirt blouse collar. The collar stand is prepared for this. Iron over the outer bridge with 1cm.

The upper and lower collars are placed on top of each other, right sides together, and stitched with a centimeter. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

Secure the rolled width in the collar with an auxiliary seam. This is necessary so that the shirt collar lies nicely around the curve and there is enough fabric. That's why the upper and lower collars are different sizes.

Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.

Here Ellen shows you how the collar should roll. Bottom and top view.

The upper and lower collars have collapsed and can now be connected to the collar stand. To do this, take the inner bar and place it, right sides together, on the upper collar.

Then the pre-ironed outer bar is stitched, right sides together, onto the inner bar and undercollar.

Before we can stitch the collar to the body, the buttonholes on the hidden button placket on the right side of the body have to be made. To do this, draw the positions of the buttonholes from the pattern on the hidden button placket and pierce them.

Now the collar is sewn in place by needle-stitching the inner bridge, right sides together, to the neck hole and stitching.

The collar is ironed up and the seam allowance lies in the collar. The previously ironed outer web is stitched with a seam close to the edge. Then you can stitch the entire collar stand all around with a seam just under the edge.

Finally, all the buttons on the left side of the body, the collar stand and the two cuffs are sewn on.

Your HANIFA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.