If you have already spotted our Paula blouse here, then you know that the name Paul is no coincidence with this shirt . Based on the DEFA love story from the 70s, we have designed this figure-hugging men's shirt for you. When asked, the majority of men will definitely opt for a sweater or hoodie , just comfortable and casual, Jakob also usually chooses one of these two items of clothing. During the shoot, however, he had to admit with a smile that he thinks Paul is pretty cool and feels comfortable in it. Maybe you just surprise your husband, friend, father or son. In any case, it worked for me. You can sew Paul with two different arm hems, one with a cuff and slit and one with a knitted cuff. The insert in the front part of our Paul has been spiced up with 3mm wide black satin ribbons, which of course can also be left out.
Center back length = 69-76cm
In these instructions, Paul was sewn from a pure cotton fabric.
We recommend a light cotton, also with some elastane.
|size 44-52||outer fabric||1.70 m||140cm wide|
|size 54-58||outer fabric||1.90 m||140cm wide|
|size 44-58||inlay||0.80 m||90 cm wide|
|size 44-58||Buttons||12 pieces||7mm diameter|
|size 44-58||knitted waistband||0.50 m||5-7 cm wide|
|size 44-58||satin ribbon||4.50 m||3mm wide|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the back piece on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts . Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly.
You need from fabric:
- 1x front piece in opposite directions
- 1x front yoke opposite
- 1x lower back in break
- 1x back yoke in break
- 1x sleeve opposite
- either 2x slit strips and 2x cuffs OR 2x cuffs
- 2x button placket
- 1x undercollar in break
- 1x upper collar in break
- 2x collar stand in break
- thin satin ribbon and buttons, a fabric marker
also with insert:
- 1x undercollar
- 1x upper collar
- 2x cuff
- 2x collar stand
- 1x button placket
To sew this shirt you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Happy sewing! Two different cuffs are shown here: the normal version with cuffs and the sporty version with retro cuffs. You can choose one of the two versions.
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of all marked pattern pieces. Transfer the back darts to the wrong side of the fabric using a fabric marker (heat-sensitive here, disappears again after ironing).
Lay the notches for the back darts lengthways right sides together and mark the tips. Now, starting from the middle, sew to one of the tips. Just before that, reduce the straight stitch to about 1.0-1.5mm; so you don't need to bar tack the seam. Iron the dart outwards.
Fold the back yoke onto the back piece, right sides facing, and close the seam. When you get to the point, leave the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, slide the fabric into place, and then continue sewing. At this point, carefully clip the seam allowance until just before the seam so that the seam lays nicely.
Press the seam towards the lower back part and topstitch it tightly.
Transfer the markings for the ribbons to the front yoke pieces. For this you can either use the fabric marker again or use pins. Stitch the ribbons using the markings on the right side of the fabric.
Repeat for the other front yoke.
Fold the yoke onto the matching front piece, right sides together, and sew it in place. Here, too, you leave the needle in the fabric at the tip (here: blue clip), lift the sewing foot, push the fabric into the right position and then you can continue sewing. At this point, carefully clip the seam allowance until just before the seam so that the seam lays nicely.
Iron the seam in the direction of the lower front part and topstitch it tightly. Repeat these steps for the other front piece.
Place both front pieces on the back piece, right sides together, and sew the shoulder seams and the side seams of the shirt.
Now it's time for the sleeves. The normal variant with slit and cuff is shown here first.
Each sleeve has two snaps for a fold and a slit.
Pin the strip with its right side to the left side of the slit. When sewing, make sure that you leave the needle in the fabric at the level of the end point of the slit, lift your foot and turn the fabric without creating a crease. Sew on the rest of the strip.
Lay the sleeve in front of you with its right side. The seam allowance faces the stripe. Fold the top edge in to the seam allowance...
... and then again over the seam. Sew this tight.
In order for the beginning of the slit to lie nicely, it is helpful to briefly topstitch the strip there from the left at a 45° angle.
So one half of the slit lays nicely over the other. Mark the two notches for the fold.
Place the fold in the direction of the slit and pin.
Sew the side seam of the sleeve right sides together.
Iron the cuff in the middle, as well as the upper and lower edge and seam allowance inwards.
Pin the cuff to the cuffs at the top edge, right sides together. It protrudes by 1 cm at both ends. Sew the cuff in place.
Now place one side right sides together in the middle of the edge of the hanger and close the seam. It goes right past the slit (pin). Cut back the seam allowance a little, repeat with the other side seam and then turn the cuff right side out.
If you've sewn accurately, you'll get a clean transition from vent to cuff. Place the still open ironed edge of the cuff over the seam and pin securely. Sew this side tightly.
Repeat these steps for the other sleeve. Transfer the markings for the buttonholes to the flap of your cuff and sew the buttonholes with your machine.
You can also add cool retro cuffs to your sleeves. You don't need the slit and the fold for this, but sew the side seam right sides together.
Place the cuff right sides together and close the side seam. Place the seam allowance in one direction and topstitch it with a few stitches.
Place the cuff right sides together on the cuff so that the two side seams meet...
... and sew it on with a light train.
This gives you a sporty cuff.
This procedure is now the same for both cuffs: Tuck the matching sleeve into your shirt, right sides together. Make sure that the respective side seams (here: blue staples) and the shoulder seam meet directly with the marking in the pattern.
Sew the sleeve cap all the way around. Do the same with the other sleeve.
Iron the button placket in the middle, as well as the upper and lower edges and seam allowance inwards, just like the bottom edge.
Pin the button placket right sides together on one of the two front edges and sew it up to 1cm before the bottom end (here: ironed edge).
At this edge, fold the hem inwards. The button placket now protrudes 1cm. Place this lower piece of the button placket right sides together and fasten it (here: needle).
Turn the button placket to the right side and the hem automatically folds inwards by 1 cm. Pin the button placket to the long seam. Sew the button placket tight. Repeat these steps on the other side. Then you stitch the hem of your shirt tightly from button placket to button placket.
The collar of the shirt consists of an upper and a lower collar, as well as an inner and outer collar band underneath. Fold the two collar pieces right sides together and sew them together at the sides and top. Cut away the seam allowance in the corners, turn the collar and topstitch it tightly.
Place the two bridge pieces, right sides together, on the two collar pieces so that their upper edge lies on the open lower edge of the collar. Sew 1cm from the bottom edge (here: blue staple) over the curve to the other end (again 1cm in front of the bottom edge). Shorten the seam allowance to about 2-3mm and iron the bridge parts nicely outwards. Stitch them tightly.
This is what your collar looks like now. Iron the bottom edges of the bridge pieces inward by 1cm.
Lay the collar stand with the undercollar right sides together on the neckline edge of your shirt so that it protrudes 1cm on the right and left. Sew him up.
Fold the remaining seam allowance of the bridge to the inside, towards the bridge, and pin the ironed lower edge to it and sew this seam close to the edge. Then topstitch the outer edges of your collar close to the edges.
Your collar is ready.
Transfer the markings for the buttonholes to what will later be the left button placket and sew them with your machine.
On the other side you attach the buttons accordingly.
Your PAUL is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.