Sewing instructions for Nuru pants

Fashion likes to change its silhouettes and proportions, so trousers are once again more fitted at the waist and have wider legs. The pattern of the Nuru trousers is therefore very trendy; the flared hem is somewhat reminiscent of the bell-bottoms of the 70s. What makes Nuru special, however, are the dividing seams that run from the back yoke across the side seam to the hem of the front leg. The trousers fit beautifully narrow up to the hips and then widen towards the hem. The slanted pockets and the double topstitching at the seams give them a very sporty look.

Hem width = 54 – 62 cm

Side length without waistband = 105 cm

→ To the “Nuru” pattern

In this tutorial, Nuru was sewn from a trouser fabric with 3% elastane content.

Required materials:

We recommend a fabric made of fine corduroy, denim or wool.

Sizes 34-40	Outer fabric	1.70 m	140 cm wide
	feed	0.25 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.50 m	90 cm wide
	Forming tape	1.50 m	12 mm wide
	zipper	1x	12 cm long
	Button	1x	1.6 cm diameter

Sizes 42-50	Outer fabric	2.10 m	140 cm wide
	feed	0.25 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.50 m	90 cm wide
	Forming tape	1.50 m	12 mm wide
	zipper	1x	13 cm long
	Button	1x	1.6 cm diameter

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric, and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the waistband on the fold at the back. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm cut with scissors or chalk. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 2x rear pants opposite
• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x saddle opposite
• 2x pocket bags-1 opposite
• 1x underlay
• 1x belt loops

also with insert:

• 2x waistband at the back in the fold
• 2x waistband top step opposite
• 2x waistband underlap opposite
• 1x front trousers upper leg right side of the body

You will need from food:

• 2x pocket bags-2 opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew these pants you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

When sewing in a zipper, you'll also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

There is also a video about the pocket processing of the Nuru pants.

(Note: The photo is of the Benedikte jeans!) After the interfacing has been attached to the wrong side of the right body, you now also need to trim along the cut edge of the underlap on the left body. There is also a cut edge for the underlap on the pocket pouch and inside of the pocket pouch on the right body.

To prevent the width of your pocket opening from expanding, we recommend reinforcing the opening with a 12mm wide shaping tape.

Next, we'll make the pockets. To do this , place the finished pocket pouches-1, right sides together, on the pocket opening edge of the front trousers and sew them together with a 1cm seam allowance.

To get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can first iron the seam allowance open and then turn the pocket bag inside out and topstitch the opening edge with a 0.2cm and 0.7cm wide stitching foot and close to the edge.

Pocket bag 2 made of lining is placed, right sides together, on the saddle, stitched 1 cm apart, and the seam allowances are neatened. The seam allowance is ironed toward the center back.

Now take pocket bag 2 and place it right sides together on the previously turned pocket bag 1. Sew the bags together along the curve and neaten the seam allowances together. Close the seam only up to the mark on the pattern (see yellow line).

Add a 0.5cm auxiliary seam so that the pocket is held correctly and can be included later when working on the waistband.

Now the back and front trousers can be sewn together. To do this, place the cut back trousers and the prepared front trousers with the saddle right sides together and stitch everything with a 1cm stitch. Then neaten the seam allowances together and press them back. Pay attention to the notches marked on the pattern.

The seam allowance is stitched twice onto the back of the trousers, once with a 0.2cm edge and once with a 0.7cm stitching foot.

The right leg is now prepared enough to be finished all the way around before continuing with the zipper . Make sure the leg rises on both front trousers are different lengths. The hem will be pressed over at the notches while still open. This makes it easier for later finishing.

The inseams are sewn together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Don't be surprised if the distance between the seat and the knee of the back of the pants is slightly shorter than that of the front. Stretch this section slightly to fit. This cutting trick ensures a better fit. The finished seam allowances are pressed open.

The hem is folded over and stitched along the previously ironed edge.

Next, you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out and tuck this leg into the other, not turned leg. This way, the crotch seams line up nicely and you can sew them together up to 1 cm above the bottom edge of the upper leg. Make sure that the yoke seams are sewn together at exactly the same height at the center back, and that the inseam seams are also lined up exactly. Press the finished seam allowances apart about 10-15 cm at the center back.

Here's a video on how to sew a zipper, where we explain step by step how to sew a zipper in. Enjoy!

Next, we make the facing for the underlap. Place it wrong side together and stitch and neaten it along the long and bottom edge.

Now take your zipper and the underlap. Sew the opened zipper onto the underlap. Be careful not to stitch too close to the zipper pull, so the slider doesn't get caught later.

Iron the underlap according to the Knips and sew the zipper with facing under the left side of the pants. Use a zipper foot for easier processing.

Iron the flap over according to the instructions. Then lay the pants neatly in front of you so that the flap covers the zipper. Pin the flap to the zipper. Open the zipper and then fold the flap facing sewn to the zipper to the side. Sew the zipper through the ironed flap at 2.5 cm and 3 cm from the center front fold.

Once the zipper is attached on both sides, it's time for the typical front trouser stitching and simultaneously attaching the ironed-over flap. Make things easier by using a stitching template. Start at the top edge with the garment open and stitch the stitching 10-11cm through, then stop and tack there.

Now the underlap can be folded back under the closed zipper and, depending on the design, either in a curve or diagonally toward the center front. It is stitched to the corner of the crotch seam through the overlap, zipper, and underlap and secured at the crotch seam.

Start by preparing the belt loops: Neaten one of the long sides of the belt loop strip. Then, with the unneeded raw edge facing wrong, iron it 1cm over, then fold the finished edge 1cm over. Iron everything flat.

Finally, stitch 0.2cm wide all around the long sides.

Cut the strip into five (depending on the pattern) equally sized belt loops. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:

• Cuff dimensions: 3.5cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 6.5cm (per loop)

Stitch the loops at the markings in the pattern (2 front stitches, 2 back stitches, + 1 in the back stitch) right sides together onto the trousers.

Next, we'll work on the waistband. Sew each of the three waistband pieces together at the side seams. Press the seam allowances open.

To prevent your waistband from stretching, we recommend reinforcing the upper edge of the inner waistband with a 12mm wide shaping tape in addition to the interfacing. This tape is also available from Vlieseline, among others: https://www.vlieseline.com/Produkte/Baender/Formband .

Place the inner and outer waistbands right sides together and sew them together along the double-reinforced top edges. For a flat top edge, press the seam allowances apart. Then iron the waistband flat.

Neaten the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

This allows you to attach the finished waistband to the pants, right sides together. Then, iron the seam allowance into the waistband.

After sewing, also close the short ends of the waistband. For curves and corners, shorten, snip, or cut seam allowances with scissors. It's especially important not to cut the seam. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming. The corners won't become too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge former and then iron them.

Turn the waistband right side out and iron it flat again if necessary. Then topstitch all the way around the waistband, keeping close to the edge. Fold the belt loops under 1cm at the top edge and simultaneously secure them with the topstitching at the top edge of the waistband.

Then straighten the belt loops and fasten them at the bottom edge (under the waistband).

Finished stitched waistband.

Finally, the buttonhole is pierced on the right side of the body and the matching button is sewn on.

Your NURU is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.