SEWING INSTRUCTIONS PANTS “NURU-KIDS”

March 3, 2021

These trousers make the partner look perfect. The rear yoke seam merges into the front pocket opening and the curved dividing seam means there is no side seam. Our model Pauline's eyes lit up with this pattern because she really likes the pants and they look cool. The pants always look different in different qualities, sometimes casual in jeans or fine in baby corduroy or velvet.

Inside leg length = 49-70cm.

In these instructions, Nuru was sewn from a pants fabric with 3% elastane.

Required material:

We recommend a fabric made of fine corduroy, denim or wool.

Sizes 116-134	outer fabric	1.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 140-152	outer fabric	1.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 116-152	lining	0.25m	140cm wide
Sizes 116-152	inlay	0.40 m	90 cm wide
size 116	ripper	1 x	7 cm long
Sizes 122-134	ripper	1 x	8cm long
Sizes 140-152	ripper	1 x	10 cm long
Sizes 116-152	Button	1 x	12mm diameter
Sizes 116-152	form tape	1.00 m	12mm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the waistband on the back of the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

2x hind trousers in opposite directions
2x front trousers in opposite directions
2x saddles in opposite directions
2x pocket bag-1 in opposite directions
1x understep
1x belt loops

also with insert:

2x waistband in the back break
2x federal overstep in opposite directions
2x federal underlay in opposite directions
1x front pants top step right side of the body

You need from feed:

2x pocket bags-2 in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. If you sew in a zipper, you also need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

There is also a video about the processing of the pockets of the Nuru pants.

(Note: the photo is of the Benedikte jeans!) After the interlining has been attached to the left side of the fabric on the right side of the body, it must now also be cut back along the raw edge of the underlay on the left side of the body. In addition, there is also a raw edge underlay for pocket bags and pocket bags on the inside on the right side of the body.

So that the width of your pocket opening does not expand, we recommend that you reinforce the opening with a 12mm wide tape.

Next up are the pockets. To do this , place the finished pocket bag-1 on the pocket opening edge, right sides together, on the pocket opening edge of the front trousers and sew them together with 1cm.

In order to get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can iron out the seam allowance in the first step and only then turn the pocket bag inside out and topstitch the opening edge with 0.2 cm and 0.7 cm stitching foot width and narrow edge.

The pocket bag-2 made of lining is placed on the saddle, right sides together, quilted with 1cm and the seam allowances trimmed together. The seam allowance is ironed to the center back.

Now take pocket bag 2 and place it, right sides together, on top of pocket bag 1, which collapsed earlier. Sew the bags together at the curve and neaten the seam allowances together. Close the seam only up to the mark in the cut (see yellow line).

Set an auxiliary seam of 0.5 cm so that the pocket is held correctly and can be included later when processing the waistband.

Now the back and front trousers can be sewn together. To do this, put the tailored rear trousers and the prepared front trousers with saddle together, right sides together, and stitch everything with 1 cm. Then the seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back. Pay attention to the snaps marked in the cut.

The seam allowance is double-stitched onto the back trousers, once with a 0.2 cm edge and with a 0.7 cm stitching foot width.

Now the right leg is prepared so far that it can be finished all around in one go before you continue with the zipper processing . Make sure that the top steps of both front trousers are of different lengths. The hem is ironed at the snaps when open. This is easier for later processing.

The inside leg seams are sewn together with 1.5 cm . Don't be surprised if the distance between the buttocks and the knees is slightly shorter on the back pant than on the front pant. Stretch this line a bit so it fits. This cutting trick ensures a better fit of the trousers. The trimmed seam allowances are ironed apart. The hem is turned over at the previously ironed edge and stitched through.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other leg that is not turned, so the crotch seam lies nicely straight on top of each other and you can sew them together up to 1cm above the lower edge of the top step. Make sure that the yoke is sewn together at the center back at exactly the same height, and that the inner leg seams are exactly on top of each other. The finished seam allowances are ironed about 8-10 cm apart at the center back.

There is also a video here on how to sew a zip, in which we explain step by step how a trouser zip is sewn in. Have lots of fun with it!

The next step is the slip of the underlay, which you lay, left sides together, neaten and stitch it together along the long and lower edges.

Now take your zip and slip to hand. Sew the opened zipper onto the underlay. Do not topstitch too close to the ripper bar so that the slider does not get caught later.

Iron the underlap according to Knips and sew the zip with the facing under the left side of the pants. Use a ripper foot for easier processing.

Iron the flap over according to Knips, then lay the pants neatly in front of you so that the flap covers the zip and pin the flap to the zip with a needle. Open the zipper and then fold the underlay sewn onto the zipper to the side. Sew the zip through the ironed top flap at 2.5 cm and 3 cm next to the break in the center front.

As soon as the zipper has been attached on both sides, the typical front quilting of the trousers and simultaneous attachment of the ironed upper flap can begin. Make it easier for yourself by using a quilting template. Starting at the top edge and open, sew through the quilting 10-11cm, then stop and bartack there.

Now the underlay can be folded back under the closed zip and, depending on the design, in a curve or at an angle to the center front. It is stitched through to the corner of the crotch seam through the top flap, zipper and under flap and locked at the crotch seam.

Begin by preparing the belt loops: neaten one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops. Then iron the unfinished raw edge, wrong sides together, by 1cm and then fold over the finished edge by 1cm. Iron everything flat.

Finally, stitch along the long sides with a width of 0.2 cm all around.

Cut the strip into (5 - depending on the information on the cut) belt loops of the same size. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:

Cuff measurement: 3.5 cm + 2 cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1 cm (for movement) = 6.5 cm (each loop)

Stitch the loops at the markings on the pattern (2 VH, 2 HH, + 1 in the HM), right sides together, onto the trousers.

Next up is the covenant. Sew the three waistband parts together at the side seams. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

So that the width of your waistband does not get too loose, we recommend that you reinforce the upper edge of the inner waistband with a 12 mm wide tape in addition to the insert. The tape is also available from Vlieseline https://www.vlieseline.com/Products/Baender/Formband .

Place the inner and outer waistband right sides together and sew them together at the double-reinforced top edges. You can iron the seam allowances apart for a flat top edge. Then iron the waistband flat.

Finish the bottom edge of the inner waistband. So you can put the finished waistband right sides together on the trousers. Then the seam allowance is ironed into the waistband.

After sewing, also close the short ends of the waistband. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened, cut or cut off with scissors. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming. The corners don't get too thick when you turn them over and the seam allowances can be laid flat.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them.

Turn the waistband right side out and iron it flat again if necessary. Then you stitch all the way around the edge through the waistband. Fold in the belt loops 1 cm at the top edge and at the same time fasten them at the top edge of the waistband with the stitching.