SEWING INSTRUCTIONS TROUSERS “NURU”

Fashion likes to change its silhouettes and proportions from time to time, which is why pants are sitting more in the waist again and are getting longer legs. The pattern of the Nuru trousers is therefore very trendy, the flared hem is reminiscent of the flared trousers of the 70s. The special thing about Nuru are the dividing seams, which run from the back yoke over the side seam into the hem of the front leg. The pants are nice and narrow up to the hips and then widen towards the hem. However, the slanting pockets and the double stitching on the seams make it look very sporty.

Hem width = 54 - 62 cm

Side length without waistband = 105 cm

In these instructions, Nuru was sewn from a pants fabric with 3% elastane.

Required material:

We recommend a fabric made of fine corduroy, denim or wool.

Sizes 34-40	outer fabric	1.70 m	140cm wide
	lining	0.25m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.50 m	90 cm wide
	form tape	1.50 m	12mm wide
	zipper	1x	12cm long
	Button	1x	1.6 cm diameter

Sizes 42-50	outer fabric	2.10m	140cm wide
	lining	0.25m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.50 m	90 cm wide
	form tape	1.50 m	12mm wide
	zipper	1x	13 cm long
	Button	1x	1.6 cm diameter

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the waistband on the back of the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 2x hind trousers in opposite directions
• 2x front trousers in opposite directions
• 2x saddles in opposite directions
• 2x pocket bag-1 in opposite directions
• 1x understep
• 1x belt loops

also with insert:

• 2x waistband in the back break
• 2x federal overstep in opposite directions
• 2x federal underlay in opposite directions
• 1x front pants top step right side of the body

You need from feed:

• 2x pocket bags-2 in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

When you sew in a zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

There is also a video about the pocket processing of the Nuru pants.

(Note: the photo is of the Benedikte jeans!) After the interlining has been attached to the left side of the fabric on the right side of the body, it must now also be cut back along the raw edge of the underlay on the left side of the body. In addition, there is also a raw edge underlay for pocket bags and pocket bags on the inside on the right side of the body.

So that the width of your pocket opening does not expand, we recommend that you reinforce the opening with a 12mm wide tape.

Next up are the pockets. To do this , place the finished pocket bag-1 on the pocket opening edge, right sides together, on the pocket opening edge of the front trousers and sew them together with 1cm.

In order to get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can iron out the seam allowance in the first step and only then turn the pocket bag inside out and topstitch the opening edge with 0.2cm and 0.7cm stitching foot width and narrow edge.

The pocket bag-2 made of lining is placed on the saddle, right sides together, quilted with 1cm and the seam allowances trimmed together. The seam allowance is ironed to the center back.

Now take pocket bag 2 and place it right sides together on top of pocket bag 1 that collapsed earlier. Sew the bags together at the curve and neaten the seam allowances together. Close the seam only up to the mark in the cut (see yellow line).

Set an auxiliary seam of 0.5 cm so that the pocket is held correctly and can be included later when processing the waistband.

Now the back and front trousers can be sewn together. To do this, put the rear trousers that have been cut to size and the prepared front trousers with the saddle together right sides together and stitch everything through with 1 cm. Then the seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back. Pay attention to the snaps marked in the cut.

The seam allowance is double-stitched onto the back trousers, once with a 0.2cm edge and with a 0.7cm stitching foot width.

Now the right leg is prepared so far that it can be finished all around in one go before you continue with the zipper processing . Make sure that the top steps of both front trousers are of different lengths. The hem is ironed at the snaps when open. This is easier for later processing.

The inner leg seams are sewn together with 1.5 cm . Don't be surprised if the distance between the buttocks and the knees is slightly shorter on the back pant than on the front pant. Stretch this line a bit so it fits. This cutting trick ensures a better fit of the trousers. The trimmed seam allowances are ironed apart.

The hem is turned over at the previously ironed edge and stitched through.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other leg that is not turned, so the crotch seam lies nicely straight on top of each other and you can sew them together up to 1cm above the lower edge of the top step. Make sure that the yoke seams are sewn together at the center back at exactly the same height, and that the inner leg seams are exactly on top of each other. The finished seam allowances are ironed about 10-15 cm apart at the center back.

There is also a video here on how to sew a zip, in which we explain step by step how a trouser zip is sewn in. Have lots of fun with it!

The next step is to cover the underlay, place it inside out and neaten it and stitch it together along the long and lower edge.

Now take your zip and slip to hand. Sew the opened zipper onto the underlay. Do not topstitch too close to the ripper bar so that the slider does not get caught later.

Iron the underlap according to Knips and sew the zip with the facing under the left side of the trousers. Use a ripper foot for easier processing.

Iron the flap over according to Knips, then lay the pants neatly in front of you so that the flap covers the zip and pin the flap to the zip with a needle. Open the zipper and then fold the underlay sewn onto the zipper to the side. Sew the zip through the ironed top flap at 2.5cm and 3cm next to the break in the center front.

As soon as the zipper is attached on both sides, the typical front trouser stitching and simultaneous attachment of the ironed overstep can be done. Make it easier for yourself by using a quilting template. Start at the top edge and open and backstitch the topstitching 10-11cm, then stop and bartack there.

Now the underlay can be folded back under the closed zip and, depending on the design, in a curve or at an angle to the center front. It is stitched through to the corner of the crotch seam through the top flap, zipper and under flap and locked at the crotch seam.

Begin by preparing the belt loops: neaten one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops. Then iron the unfinished raw edge wrong sides together by 1cm and then fold over the finished edge by 1cm. Iron everything flat.

Finally, stitch along the long sides with a width of 0.2 cm all around.

Cut the strip into (5 - depending on the information on the cut) belt loops of the same size. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:

• Cuff size: 3.5cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 6.5cm (each loop)

Stitch the loops at the markings on the pattern (2 VH, 2 HH, + 1 in the HM) right sides together onto the trousers.

Next up is the covenant. Sew the three waistband parts together at the side seams. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

So that the width of your waistband does not expand, we recommend that you reinforce the upper edge of the inner waistband with a 12mm wide tape in addition to the insert. The tape is also available from Vlieseline https://www.vlieseline.com/Products/Baender/Formband .

Place the inner and outer waistband right sides together and sew them together at the double-reinforced top edges. You can iron the seam allowances apart for a flat top edge. Then iron the waistband flat.

Finish the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

So you can put the finished waistband right sides together on the pants. Then the seam allowance is ironed into the waistband.

After sewing, also close the short ends of the waistband. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened, cut or cut off with scissors. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming. The corners don't get too thick when you turn them over and the seam allowances can be laid flat.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them.

Turn the waistband right side out and iron it flat again if necessary. Then you stitch all the way around the edge through the waistband. Fold in the belt loops 1 cm at the top edge and at the same time fasten them at the top edge of the waistband with the stitching.

Then straighten the belt loops and fasten them at the bottom edge (under the waistband).

Ready-stitched waistband.

Finally, the buttonhole is stitched on the right side of the body and the matching button is sewn on.

Your NURU is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.