SEWING INSTRUCTIONS CUNT SKIRT “THERESA”

Fashion details are repeated over the decades, as is the model pants skirt . Wedding in the 70s, the fusion of pants and skirt is more popular than ever. The slightly lower waistband and a side seam zip underline the figure-hugging trouser area and then fall bell-like from the hips to the hem. Theresa offers two leg lengths, the hem ends at calf height and the shorter version just below the knee. With the help of the drawn lines, the knee-length trouser skirt is quickly implemented.

Inside leg length = 83 - 85 cm

In these instructions, Theresa was sewn from a softly falling viscose woven fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing fabric, such as a viscose/polyester blend , wool georgette or tencel.

Sizes 34-50	outer fabric	2.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	lining fabric	0.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.60 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	seam tear	1 piece	22cm long

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back of the waistband in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 2x front trousers in opposite directions
• 2x hind trousers in opposite directions
• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
• 1x belt loops

also with insert:

• 2x pocket slip opposite
• 2x fret-before in break
• 2x waistband-back break

also with band:

• 1x inner waistband-front
• 1x inner waistband-back

From lining you need:

• 2x pocket bags inside in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

If you use a seam zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Start with the processing of the pockets in the front trousers. To do this, clean up the pocket facings along the long edge.

Now place the prepared pocket facings, left sides together, on the inside of the pocket bags made of lining fabric and sew them tight all around.

Now place the finished pocket pouches on the pocket opening edge, right sides together, of the front trousers and sew them together with 1cm.

If you don't want to topstitch the edge, the seam allowances can be flatstitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detail photo of the flat-stitched seam at the pocket opening.

In order to get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can iron out the seam allowance in the first step and only then turn the pocket bag inside out and stitch the opening edge with a 0.5 cm wide stitching foot.

Now take the large pocket bag made of outer fabric and place it, right sides together, on top of the pocket bag that you turned over before. Sew the bags together at the curve and neaten the seam allowances together.

Place an auxiliary seam of 0.5 cm on the waist so that the pocket is held correctly and can be included later when processing the waistband. Your pocket is ready.

Next up is sewing the back trouser darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the waist seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center back.

You neaten the hems of the trouser legs individually and …

... iron them according to the cut.

Before the seam ripper can be sewn in, you reinforce the areas on the front and back pants on the left side of the body with extra inserts.

Neaten the seam allowances of all side seams individually.

Take the front and back pant legs and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seams of the front and back trousers with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. Note that the side seam on the left side of the body is only closed up to the snap. Work both legs and…

… then iron the seam allowances apart.

The inner leg seams are sewn together with 1cm right sides together . Don't be surprised if the distance between the buttocks and the knees is slightly shorter on the back pant than on the front pant. Stretch this line a bit so it fits. This cutting trick ensures a better fit of the trousers. Iron the finished seam allowances towards the back.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other leg that is not turned, so the crotch seam lies neatly on top of each other and you can sew them together super well. Make sure that the inner leg seams line up exactly. Feel free to double-stitch this seam. Iron the first 5-10cm of the finished seam allowances to the right side of the body.

You can now fold the pre-ironed hem up and secure it with a seam all around.

Begin by preparing the belt loops: neaten one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops.

Then iron the unfinished raw edge, wrong sides together, and then fold the finished edge over it. Iron everything flat.

Here you can see a detailed view of the ironed belt loop.

Finally, stitch along the long sides, just 0.2 cm along the edge all around.

Here you can see a detailed view of the quilted belt loop.

You cut the strip into 6 belt loops of the same size, depending on the instructions on the cut. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:

• Cuff size: 4cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 7cm (per loop)

Stitch the loops to your trousers at the markings (2x VH, 4x HH), right sides together.

Next up is the covenant. Sew a waistband at the back with a waistband at the front, right sides together, at the right side seam. Iron the seam allowances apart. So that the width of your waistband does not expand, the upper edge of the inner waistband is reinforced with a 12mm wide band in addition to the insert. The tape is also available from Vlieseline https://www.vlieseline.com/Products/Baender/Formband.

Finish the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

Place the inner and outer waistband together, right sides together, and sew them together at the double-reinforced top edge, but don't sew all the way to the end, as you'll need some slack to sew the seam ripper later. Note that the outer waistband is deliberately larger than the inner waistband and therefore protrudes.

Lay the seam allowance to the inner waistband and topstitch the edge flat. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the inner waistband, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the inner waistband is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed view of the flat-quilted inner waistband.

Then turn the waistband inside out and iron flat.

Here you can see a detailed view of the flat ironed waistband.

Now you can attach the finished waistband to the trousers with the outer edge, right sides together, and stitch down to the end. Then the seam allowance is ironed into the waistband.

There are several variants for a zipper foot. This is one of them.

The seam ripper is then inserted into the side seam on the front and back sections up to the upper edge of the waistband. Note the 1.5cm seam allowance.

Here you can see a detailed view of a closed seam zipper.

The waistband is placed on top of each other, right sides together, and the inner waistband is sewn to the seam allowances of the zipper.

Now close the waistband completely.

You also secure the tear ends at the seam allowances of the side seam.

Now you stitch the waistband all around the width of your stitching foot and thus fasten the inner waistband. You also secure the belt loops on the pants with a seam.

The belt loops are folded over 1cm and fastened to the outer waistband.

Your THERESA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.