We kept the pattern for the Jade women's jacket deliberately simple. With the patch pockets, the wide lapel collar and the oversized shoulders, the jacket looks nice and casual, a simple tie belt instead of a fastener ensures the perfect fit. The jacket is unlined, but has a longer cut and is therefore incredibly versatile, also in terms of the choice of fabric.
Length at center back = 78-82cm
Jade was sewn from a new wool in these instructions.
We recommend a slightly thicker jersey, wool or soft synthetic leather.
|Size 34-42||Material||2.30 m||140cm wide|
|Size 44-50||Material||2.80 m||140cm wide|
|Size 34-50||inlay||1.10 m||90 cm wide|
|Size 34-42||form tape||2.00 m||1 cm wide|
|Size 44-50||form tape||2.20 m||1 cm wide|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the upper and lower collars, the back facing and the bridge in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric:
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x back piece in opposite directions
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x bag
- 2x tie belt
- 1x loops
also with insert:
- 2x front piece receipt in opposite directions
- 1x back piece receipt in break
- 1x upper collar in break
- 1x undercollar in break
- 2x bridge in the fracture
also with band:
- 1x neckline on VT and RT
- 2x front shoulder
- 2x armhole
To sew this jacket you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
If you have decided on jersey, be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you sew with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a stitch Overcast with a zigzag stitch or other equivalent stitch to prevent fraying. For thicker fabrics you are welcome to use a slightly stronger needle (e.g. 100/110). In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip
Next, prepare the pockets for the front piece. To do this, the lower and side edges are trimmed and ironed 1cm. The upper edge of the bag is folded in 2x 2cm and the edge is stitched through. Pin the prepared pocket to the markings from the pattern on the right side of the front part, left sides facing.
Then you topstitch the pocket just under the edge.
Since the Jade jacket is processed without lining, all visible seam allowances such as side seams, center back, shoulder and underarm seams must be neatened. Sew the center back of both back pieces, right sides together, and press open the seam allowances.
You also close the seams of the shoulders, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart. You also close the side seams, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart.
Sew the belt loops together, right sides facing, in a fold and trim the seam allowances a bit.
Then overturn the belt loop with a safety pin and turn the seam allowance inside out.
Iron the belt loops and place the seam in the middle. Then you blend them to 14cm.
The belt loops are sewn on round. To do this, lay them on top of each other, left sides facing, and close them to form a round. The snap in the side seam marks the location of the loop, mark it with a pin.
Then iron out the seam allowance, position the belt loop on the marking and stitch it on so that the seam allowances disappear underneath.
Sew the bars, right sides together, to the upper and lower collars. The seam allowances are cut so that they can be easily ironed apart and everything lies nice and flat. Topstitch a seam on both sides and thus secure the seam allowances extra.
Then you put the two collars on top of each other and sew them together, right sides together. You can either iron the seam allowance to one side or sew it to the undercollar just next to the seam, which means flat topstitching.
Now sew the short sections together, but only as far as shown in the photo. Trim the seam allowances at the corners so they are not too thick.
Now turn the collar right side out, work out the corners and iron everything flat.
Then neaten the shoulder seams of the facings, sew the front and back facings together, right sides facing, and iron out the seam allowances.
Fold the VT facing, right sides together, with the front edge and lapel up to the arrow and iron out the edge.
Now we come to collapsing the collar. The mirrored seam of the upper collar is sewn to the front facing up to the snap. At the red mark, the seam must have a distance of 1 cm on both sides.
Then place the facing on the front piece and sew together the stretch from the edge to the notch.
Finally, sew the mirror seam from the undercollar to the front piece. Always make sure to only sew up to the notch and not beyond. Always lock the ends of the seams well. Repeat the last three photos for the other side of the collar. You are also welcome to take a look at the collar processing of the quete.
The bars are sewn together with the back part neck hole and with the lining. With the red arrow, the seam allowance is cut in until just before the seam. This is how the finished collar looks from the inside.
The seam allowance is ironed apart and the two seam allowances marked with the red cross are placed on top of each other.
Sew the seam allowances together just below the seam.
Clean up the facing edge, iron around 1cm and topstitch the edge.
Fold in the hem 2x 1.5cm, pre-iron and topstitch the edge. When doing so, unfold the front piece facings and topstitch them as well.
Iron the sleeve hems in and out twice according to the pattern, then neaten the inner arm seams individually, close and iron them apart. Finally, topstitch the sleeve hems almost to the edge.
Using the snaps, insert the sleeves into the armhole, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances together.
Fasten the center back of the tie belt, right sides together, and press open the seam allowances. Then you lay the band, right sides together, in the fold and sew them together all around. Make sure to leave a small opening at the center back so that you can turn the belt right side out there later. The seam allowance is trimmed a little at the corners. Then turn the belt through the small opening in the seam using a safety pin or wooden spoon (handle side) and iron flat.
Finally, stitch the belt all the way around and close the small opening.
If necessary, the lapels, the front edge and the collar are also topstitched with a seam the width of a stitching foot. If you want, you can also topstitch the armhole one foot wide. To do this, iron the seam allowance into the body beforehand.
I attached the front facings to the hem with a hanging stitch. You can also use this to attach the back piece facing to the seam allowance. Finally, iron the jacket nicely.
Your JADE is ready!
If you don't know what to do or if you have any questions, please send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.