We kept the pattern for the Jade women's jacket extremely simple. With the patch pockets, the wide lapel collar and the overcut shoulders, the jacket looks nice and casual; a simple tie belt instead of a fastener ensures the perfect fit. The jacket is unlined, but has a longer cut and is therefore incredibly versatile, including when it comes to the choice of fabric.
Length at center back = 78 – 82 cm
In these instructions, Jade was sewn from a virgin wool.
We recommend a slightly thicker jersey, wool or soft faux leather.
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the upper and lower collar, the RT facing and the bridge in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.
What you need from fabric:
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x back pieces opposite
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x bag
- 2x tie belts
- 1x loops
also with insert:
- 2x front part facing opposite
- 1x back cover in the break
- 1x upper collar in the break
- 1x undercollar in the break
- 2x bridge in the break
also with form band:
- 1x neckline on the VT and RT
- 2x front shoulder
- 2x armhole
To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
If you have decided on jersey, be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then repeat all the seam allowances with one Finish with a zigzag stitch or other appropriate stitch to prevent them from fraying. For thicker fabrics, you can use a slightly stronger needle (e.g. 100/110). In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
Next, prepare the pockets for the front piece. To do this, the bottom and side edges are neatened and ironed 1cm. The top edge of the bag is folded in 2x 2cm and the edge is stitched through. Pin the prepared pocket to the markings from the cut on the right side of the fabric from the front piece, left sides together.
Then stitch the bag close to the edge.
Since the Jade jacket is processed without a lining, all visible seam allowances, such as side seams, center back, shoulder and underarm seams, must be separately overlocked. Close the center back of both back pieces, right sides together, and press the seam allowances apart.
You also close the seams on the shoulders, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart. You also close the side seams, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart.
Sew the belt loops together, right sides together, in a fold and trim the seam allowances slightly.
Then use a safety pin to pin the belt loop and turn the seam allowance inside out.
Iron the belt loops and place the seam in the middle. Then cut them to 14cm.
The belt loops are sewn on in a round shape. To do this, place them on top of each other, left to left, and close them into a round, quilting foot wide. The clip in the side seam marks the location of the loop, mark it with a pin.
Then iron the seam allowance apart, position the belt loop on the marking and stitch it up so that the seam allowance disappears underneath.
Sew the bars, right sides together, to the upper and lower collars. The seam allowances are cut so that they can be easily ironed apart and everything lies nice and flat. Stitch a seam close to the edge on both sides and secure the seam allowances extra.
Then place the two collars on top of each other and sew them together, right sides together. You can either iron the seam allowance to one side or sew it just next to the seam on the undercollar, which means flat stitching.
Now sew the short sections together, but only as far as in the photo. Trim the seam allowances at the corners so that they are not too thick.
Now turn the collar right side out, work out the corners and iron everything smooth.
Then neaten the shoulder seams of the facings, sew the front facings together with the back facings, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart.
Turn the VT facing, right sides together, with the front edge and lapel up to the arrow and iron the edge.
Now we come to the collapse of the collar. The mirror seam from the upper collar is sewn to the front facing up to the clip. At the red marking, the seam must be 1cm apart on both sides.
Then place the facing on the front piece and sew the section together from the edge to the clip.
Finally, sew the mirror seam from the undercollar to the front piece. Always make sure to only sew up to the snap and not beyond. Always lock the ends of the seams well. Repeat the last three photos for the other side of the collar. You are also welcome to take a look at how the Quete's collar is processed.
The bars are sewn together with the back neck hole and the facing. With the red arrow, the seam allowance is cut until just before the seam. This is what the collar looks like from the inside when finished.
The seam allowance is ironed apart and the two seam allowances marked with the red cross are placed on top of each other.
Sew the seam allowances together slightly below the seam.
Neaten the edge of the facing, iron it over 1cm and topstitch just under the edge.
Fold in the hem 2x 1.5cm, pre-iron and stitch the edge. Unfold the front facings and stitch them together.
Iron the sleeve hems in and out twice according to the pattern, then neaten the inner arm seams individually, close them and iron them apart. Finally, stitch the sleeve hems close to the edge.
Insert the sleeves into the armhole using the clips, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances together.
Close the center back of the tie belt, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart. Then place the band, right sides together, in a fold and sew them together all the way around. Make sure to leave a small opening at the center back so that you can later turn the belt right side out. The seam allowance is slightly trimmed at the corners. Then turn the belt through the small opening in the seam using a safety pin or a wooden spoon (handle side) and iron it flat.
Finally, stitch the belt around the width of a quilting foot and close the small opening.
If necessary, the lapel, the front edge and the collar can also be topstitched with a seam the width of a quilting foot. If you want, you can also topstitch the armhole a foot wide. To do this, iron the seam allowance into the body beforehand.
I attached the front facings to the hem with a hanging stitch. You can also use this to attach the back facing to the seam allowance. Finally, iron the jacket nicely.
Your JADE is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at firstname.lastname@example.org. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.