SEWING INSTRUCTIONS JACKET “TOM”

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabrics and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the back piece, back yoke and collar outside in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need fabric (wool, felt, boiled wool):

• 1x collar-outside in break
• 1x yoke-back in break
• 1x back part in break
• 2x side panel
• 2x yoke in front
• 2x front part
• 2x upper sleeves
• 2x lower sleeves
• 1x collar protector
• 2x pocket pouches
• 2x slip front

also with band:

• 2x neckline and 2x shoulder yoke in front
• 1x neckline yoke-back

You need from fabric:

• 1x pocket-up slip
• 1x pocket-top
• 2x pocket receipt
• 2x pocket bags inside

also with insert:

• 1x collar inside
• 2x position side pockets front parts

Sewing instructions:

To sew this jacket you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Start connecting the front yoke to the front pieces, right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed upwards.

Lay the back yoke, right sides together, on the back piece and neaten the seam allowances together.

Stitch both dividing seams of the front parts up one foot wide.

Do the same with the quilting on the back.

Now come to the attached upper pocket processing. The template will help you iron the curves neatly.

Place the pocket-up receipt, right sides together, on top of the pocket. Sew the box all around with a smaller stitch…

... and then cut through the middle up to 1cm from the end, from there then diagonally to the corners.

You can now turn the slip inside out, but first stitch the seam flat. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

You now provide the turned and ironed part with a suitable zipper under your pocket window. To do this, stitch close to the edge and step foot wide all around.

Here you can see a detailed view of the processed zipper.

Now you can position the upper pocket at the markings on the left side of the body and then stitch down just under the edge and a stitching foot wide. Finally, iron over the stitching again.

The windows of the side pockets are processed in the same way with the facings, incisions and flat quilting as that of the upper pocket.

Here, too, place the matching zipper under the pocket window and stitch it down the width of a stitching foot.

Here you can see a detailed view of the zipper processing.

Now come to the pocket bags-inside made of the lighter fabric. Place this, right sides together, on the zipper seam allowance and stitch the bag there.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the pocket bag, if it is not specially stitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the bag is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances.

Here you can see a detailed view of the flat-stitched seam.

Because pocket bags made of boiled wool are then placed, right sides together, on the pocket bag that has already been sewn on and stitched shut. You neaten the seam allowances together.

An extra seam close to the zipper on the boiled bag keeps the bag from slipping.

Now come to the processing of the hull. To do this, place the side parts, right sides together, on the front parts, close the seam and clean up the seam allowances, iron them towards the back.

Also iron the hems of the front pieces...

... and the cut of the back according to Knips.

Place the side pieces, right sides together, on the back piece, sew everything together, neaten the seam allowances and iron them to the back.

Close the shoulders as well, right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and iron everything to the front.

For the stitching in the front part, stitch the seam allowance one foot wide.

You also provide the shoulders with a quilting seam.

The dividing seams of the back part are also topstitched.

Now take the outer and inner collar and stitch through the upper seam, right sides together. Press the seam allowance up.

Fold over the seam and place both collars on top of each other. This causes the inner collar to flash out at the top. The outer collar is then stitched to the neckline and the seam allowances on both sides are ironed out up to the shoulder snaps.

Lay the collar protection, right sides together, and stitch the straight line and the curve on top of each other. Then you collapse everything together.

Place the collar protector on the snaps on the collar and stitch it in place.

Place the matching zipper, right sides together, in the center front up to the upper edge of the collar and stitch it in place.

Clean up the front facings all around.

And stitch the neckline of the slip, right sides together, to the inner collar.

Here you can see a detailed view of the processing of the receipts.

Iron the seam allowances apart.

Lay the collars on top of each other, right sides together, and the lining, right sides together, on the zipper. This way you can stitch through the facing hem at the edge of the hanger and cut away the facing hem allowance.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed facing hem.

When stitching through the facing, the hem of the jacket is turned up and grabbed.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed hem.

The seam allowances ironed apart under the inner and outer collar facings are now stitched together. Sew the visible stretch on the back part of the inner collar to the outer collar by hand.

Secure the slips in addition to the shoulder seam with a hi-seam.

The receipts can also be secured on the pocket bag with an auxiliary seam.

Stitch the hem all the way around.

The upper sleeve is sewn together with the lower sleeve, right sides together, and neatened. Iron the seam allowance to the front. Don't forget the quilting.

Iron the hems according to the pattern.

Then close the inner arm seam and clean up the seam allowances. Iron these backwards.

Process the hems of the sleeves.

The finished sleeve can now be positioned and sewn in the correct armhole, right sides together. Neat the seam allowances together.

Your TOM is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.