The next favorite part - pattern pants Isa is a great new pants shape. She looks great in a pair of jeans and a cotton fabric. The deep crotch and the narrow leg shape make these pants incredibly casual. You should already have some sewing experience and own a sewing machine with a buttonhole function.
side length = 98 cm
In these instructions, Isa was sewn from denim.
|Size 34-42||outer fabric||1.50 m||140cm wide|
|lining||0.30 cm||140cm wide|
|inlay||0.35m||90 cm wide|
|Buttons||4x||1.7 cm diameter|
|Size 44-50||outer fabric||2.10m||140cm wide|
|lining||0.30 cm||140cm wide|
|inlay||0.40 m||90 cm wide|
|Buttons||4x||1.7 cm diameter|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric:
- 2x front trousers legs in opposite directions
- 2x front trousers in opposite directions
- 2x hind trousers in opposite directions
- 2x rear yokes in opposite directions
- 2x back pocket in opposite directions
- 1x coin pocket
- 2x pocket slip opposite
- 2x receipt strips in opposite directions
- 1x belt loop strip
also with insert:
- 2x document front center in opposite directions
- 4x fret of opposite equals
You need from food:
- 2x pocket bags in opposite directions made of lining
also with band:
- 2x pocket receipts
To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Lay the two front pieces of pants on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together at the dividing seam. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed down.
If necessary, topstitch the seam allowance with contrasting thread, once close to the edge and once the width of a stitching foot. Now you have to prepare the attached pockets for the back part. To do this, fold the upper pocket opening at 3cm 1x, right sides together, down. Fold this seam allowance in half (at 1.5 cm) back up to form a kind of accordion.
Now secure the folded seam allowance with 1cm and then turn it to the left, if necessary cut the seam allowance beforehand. Always work out the corners nicely.
Iron the seam allowance of the back pocket around 1 cm all around. Make sure that the bags are identical.
Next, topstitch the pocket openings with contrasting yarn, once close to the edge and once the width of a stitching foot. Pin the pockets, wrong sides together, onto the back pants according to the markings and stitch them all around, just under the edge and a foot wide.
It continues with the yokes, which you sew, right sides together, onto the hind trousers. Neaten the seam allowances together and then iron them upwards. If necessary, you can again topstitch the seam with contrasting thread, once close to the edge and once the width of a stitching foot. This is best done from the right side of the fabric.
Put the hind pants aside and grab the coin purse. Neat the raw edge at the facing edge and iron the seam allowance inwards. The opening is stitched with contrasting yarn just below the edge and the width of the stitching foot. You also iron the side seam allowances inwards.
Now sew the finished bag onto the bag facing, wrong sides together, on the right side of the body. Pay attention to the marking in the cut.
Neaten the pocket facings at the lower raw edge...
... and place them on the right side of the lining pocket bags. Stitch the facings all around with a seam the width of a stitcher's foot. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut.
Now place the bags, right sides together, on the front trousers and sew them together at the pocket opening edge.
For curves, seam allowances are cut or cut off with scissors. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. Then fold the pocket bag, wrong sides together, onto the left side of the trouser leg and iron the pocket opening in the edge.
Finally, topstitch with contrasting yarn just below the edge and the width of your stitching foot.
Fold the pocket pouch right sides together (see snap) and secure 0.5cm at the waist. Sew the bag together along the bottom edge, neaten the seam allowances, and iron flat. Then secure the bag at the side seam with a seam the width of a quilting foot and your bag is sewn in.
Take the front and back pant leg and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Sew the side seam, overcast and press the seam allowance back.
The side seam is top-stitched with contrasting yarn close to the edge and the width of a quilting foot on the seam allowance.
Sew the inner leg seams together, right sides together. Don't be surprised if the distance between the buttocks and the knees is slightly shorter on the back pant than on the front pant. Stretch the back pants a little to the front ones so that they fit. This cutting trick ensures a better fit of the trousers. Neat the seam allowances back together and iron them to the back.
Next you can close the seat seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other, so the seat seam lies neatly on top of each other and you can sew them together super well up to the button placket. Overcast the seam allowance and iron it to the right side of the body.
Overcast the center front facings along the long and bottom edges and then pin them, right sides together, onto the top flap and the bottom flap of the front trousers. You sew this on the untrimmed, longer edge and the short slope at 1cm wide, sewing exactly up to the inseam. Cut the corners, clip the front trousers at the corner (crotch seam/top or bottom flap), turn the facings right side out, work out the corners nicely and iron the edges.
Then you topstitch the underlap (left side of the body) on the long edge with contrasting yarn just under the edge and the top step on the long edge just under the edge and stitching foot wide, DO NOT stitch the underlap too. Make and cut the 3 buttonholes according to the pattern. Secure the top and bottom flaps at the waistband by stitching at approx. 0.5 cm.
Lay the top flap (right side of the body) over the bottom flap (the NZG of the inseam is on the right side of the body). Now also stitch the lower slope of the upper step through the upper and lower step.
Next, topstitch the buttocks seam with contrasting yarn.
Now it's time for the belt loops. To do this, overcast the long strip on one side. Fold in the raw edge 1cm, wrong sides together, fold over the raw edge 1cm and iron everything flat.
Topstitch the stripe on both sides with contrasting yarn.
Now you have to cut the long strip into 5 short strips. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:
- Cuff size: 3.5cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 6.5cm (each loop)
The loops are stitched onto the trousers at the markings on the pattern (2 VH, 2 HH, +1 in the HM), right sides together.
The inner and outer waistband are sewn together in the center back and the side seam, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart. Then you sew the top edge of the waistband together, right sides facing, and topstitch the outer waistband at 1cm with an auxiliary seam.
Iron the upper edge of the waistband in edging and sew the short side together, right sides together.
Sew the inner waistband, right sides together, to the inside of your prepared pants and iron the seam allowance into the waistband.
Press the seam allowance of the outer waistband inwards at the auxiliary seam and pin it in place. Then topstitch the waistband in a circle with contrasting yarn just under the edge from the outside. Now you are missing a buttonhole, which you work into the waistband according to the pattern.
Now fold in the belt loops approx. 0.5 cm and fasten them just under the edge of the upper waistband.
Finally, just turn the hems in and out twice, 1.5 cm, iron and topstitch with contrasting yarn. Of course, sew on the 4 buttons according to the buttonhole position.
Your ISA is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to email@example.com. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.