NÄHANLEITUNG JEANSKLEID “TONJE”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS DENIM DRESS “TONJE”

We are happy about our fifth pattern in collaboration with Emilea . Manu's wish was a dress cut that was sporty and, as you already know from the other cuts, with lots of great highlights. Whether the seams stitched with decorative stitching, the zipper in the center front or the sleeve, which can be rolled up with the help of a bar and button, together they represent a typical “Manu item”. Classic jeans details such as the back yoke or the rounded pocket in the skirt part match the look wonderfully and in combination with denim you can sew this modern classic yourself.

Length at center back = 102 – 108 cm

→ To the pattern “Tonje”

In these instructions, Tonje was sewn from denim.

Required material:

We recommend using denim or a similar sturdy fabric with elastane and a thin cotton fabric as a contrast.

Sizes 34-42 Outer fabric 2.30 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Outer fabric 2.90 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 contrast 0.30m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 inlay 0.60 m 90cm wide
Sizes 34-50 Ripper ntlb. 1 piece 55cm long
Sizes 34-50 Buttons 12mm 2 pieces

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabrics and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the back, yoke at the back and the outside of the collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

  • 2x yoke at the back in the break
  • 2x back pieces opposite
  • 2x saddles in opposite directions at the back
  • 2x skirt at the back in opposite directions
  • 2x breast pockets in opposite directions
  • 2x pocket receipts in opposite directions
  • 2x pocket receipts inside opposite
  • 2x front part opposite
  • 2x skirt front opposite
  • 2x receipt front opposite
  • 1x belt loops
  • 1x tear underlay
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x sleeve band
  • 2x belts

also with insert:

  • 1x upper collar
  • 1x undercollar

also with form band:

  • 2x pocket slip inside opening
  • 2x facing front neck hole and center front
  • 2x front neck hole

You need lining material:

  • 2x pocket bags in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start by processing the back piece. To do this, close the center back right sides together and finish the seam allowances together. Then iron the seam allowances to the left side of the body.

The back skirt yokes are placed right sides together and are serged together. Iron the seam allowances towards the left side of the body.

Also place the back skirt parts on top of each other, right sides together, and neaten them together. Iron the seam allowances towards the left side of the body.

Now sew the skirt yoke to the skirt part, right sides together (finish the seam allowances together and iron them down),

... attach the back piece to the yoke, right sides together (finish the seam allowances together and iron them upwards), ...

… place the outer upper yoke right sides together on the back piece and …

... the inner yoke, right to left , also on the back piece. Iron both yokes upwards so that the seam allowances disappear to the inside.

The topstitching is close to the edge and quilting foot wide. Start your topstitching at the center back and continue with the waist and saddle seams.

We continue with the processing of the pockets in your dress. You can neaten the long curves of the pocket facings that have been cut to size and stuck on with forming tape.

You also neaten the curves of the two pocket facings.

Now place the prepared pocket facings, left sides together, on the pocket bags made of lining material and sew them in place with a straight stitch along the finished edge. You can additionally secure the straight edges on the pocket bag with an auxiliary seam.

Now close the center front of the skirt front pieces, right sides together, up to the beginning of the zipper and finish the seam allowances together. Iron the seam allowances towards the right side of the body.

Now place the finished pocket bags on the pocket opening edge of the skirt front pieces, right sides together, and sew them together at 1cm. For curves, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The seam allowances lay nice and flat as they can spread apart if you fall. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. We therefore recommend that you sew with a smaller stitch length. To get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can first iron the seam allowance apart and then turn the pocket bag inside out.

Now fold the pocket bag on top of each other, right sides together. Sew the bag together along the curve and finish the seam allowances together.

Place an auxiliary seam of 0.5cm so that the pocket is held properly and can be grabbed later.

Stitch the pocket openings with a narrow edge and a stitching foot width. Your pockets are ready. Stitch just a short edge of the center front and iron the upper sections for the zipper with 1cm. FYI: Clip the seam allowances at the bottom so that the center front can be ironed apart more easily.

We continue with sewing off the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Then sew the front pieces to the front skirt pieces, right sides together. Finish the seam allowances together and press them up. Here too, iron the center front with 1cm.

For the topstitching of the waist seam, you also stitch through the edge and the width of the stitching foot.

Start by preparing the belt loops. Finish one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops. Then iron the raw edge, left sides together, and then fold the finished edge over it. Iron everything flat.

Finally, stitch along each long edge along each edge. Cut the strip into 3 equal-sized belt loops.

Fasten a loop onto the dress at the marking in the pattern in the middle back .

Fasten two loops onto the dress at the markings in the front .

The front part is prepared and the matching zipper can be visibly sewn into the center front. Place it right sides together on the ironed front edge of the right and left sides of the body and stitch it in place. The ironed edge lies next to the teeth of the ripper.

You have already sewn the outside and inside yokes onto the back piece. Then it's time to connect the yoke to the front in the shoulder area. First, sew the outer yoke together with the respective front pieces, right sides together, and press the seam allowances to the back.

The inner yoke is folded to the shoulder seam. Then you crawl from the open neck hole into the shoulder seam and grab the 3 seam allowances. You sew these three layers together. The outer yoke lies right to right on the front piece and the inner yoke, right to left, lies on the front piece.

Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances point towards the back, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inside and outside yoke. Iron the whole thing flat. To continue working, we pinned the layers at the neck and armholes together with a large stitch. So nothing shifts anymore.

Stitch the shoulders and yoke seam close to the edge and stitch the width of the foot through.

You iron the breast pockets all around according to the pattern and stitch the double folded and folded opening close to the edge.

Position your breast pocket on the markings in the pattern or adjust the position on your own body. Stitch both pockets close to the edge and the width of a quilting foot.

Place the zipper underlay right sides together and sew off the slanted corner according to the pattern.

After turning it over and ironing it into the fold, neaten the lower cut edge of the zipper underlay.

The front of the receipt is cleaned all around according to the yellow lines in the photo.

Place the zipper underlay, left sides together, on the facing front on the right side of the body and stitch it in place.

Now sew the prepared facing right sides together to the center front with the zipper already sewn on. Iron everything over: turn the facing inside out and place the zipper underlay under the zipper.

Also sew the left body side facing to your center front.

This is how both covers and the tear underlay look processed from the inside.

Place the upper and lower collars on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

Secure the lower edge with an auxiliary seam. To do this, push both fabrics together with the same edges to create the so-called roll width of the upper collar. Stitch the collar just to the edge and the width of the stitching foot.

Place the prepared collar left sides together in the finished neck hole and stitch through to the snap.

Now you stitch the undercollar onto the back neck hole.

Place the facings on the front neck holes and stitch them through. Trim the seam allowances at the front corner. But first check whether the receipt has been folded correctly. Cut the seam allowances of the curve slightly.

Fold the upper collar over and stitch the edge through. Preferably you hit the back in the shadow of the seam.

Now stitch off the tear edges each with a narrow edge and a quilting foot width.

... and secure the tear understep on the left slip.

Now close the side seams right sides together on the front and back pieces. Finish the seam allowances together and press them backwards.

Iron the hem according to the pattern and stitch it into place along the narrow edge.

Place the sleeve bands on top of each other, right sides together, and stitch all the way around. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

Using a suitable tool, turn the ribbons right side out and stitch the ribbons through the width of a quilting foot.

The lower ends are neatened.

Sew the ribbons onto the left side of the sleeve. Pay attention to the markings on the cut.

Now the sleeve can be sewn together and finished, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances backwards.

Punch buttonholes in both sleeve bands.

Double press the hem of the sleeves in and around and stitch it close to the edge.

The button is attached to the right side of the product.

Sew both sleeves into the armholes, right sides together, and finish the seam allowances together.

As a final sewing step, only the belt needs to be processed. To do this, place both belt parts together, right sides together, and sew the center back together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Then place the belt right sides together and sew it closed according to the yellow line in the photo. Note the open hole near the center back for the belt to collapse.

Tighten your belt, turn it through the center hole and close this opening by stitching through the edge and the width of a quilting foot.

Your TONJE is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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