SEWING INSTRUCTIONS DENIM DRESS “TONJE”

We are happy about our fifth pattern in collaboration with Emilea . Manu's wish was a dress cut , sporty and, as you already know from the other cuts, with many great highlights. Whether it's the seams with decorative seams, the zip in the center front or the sleeves that can be rolled up with the help of a bar and button, together they stand for a typical "Manu piece". Classic jeans details such as the back yoke or the rounded pockets in the skirt part go wonderfully with the look and in combination with a denim fabric you can sew this modern classic yourself.

Center Back Length = 102 - 108 cm

Tonje was sewn from a denim fabric in these instructions.

Required material:

We recommend a denim fabric or a similar solid fabric with elastane and a thin cotton fabric as a contrast.

Sizes 34-42	outer fabric	2.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	outer fabric	2.90 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	contrast	0.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.60 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	tear ntlb.	1 piece	55cm long
Sizes 34-50	Buttons	12mm	2 pieces

cutting:

You need from fabric:

• 2x yoke-back in break
• 2x back piece in opposite directions
• 2x saddle-rear opposite
• 2x skirt-rear opposite
• 2x chest pockets in opposite directions
• 2x pocket slip opposite
• 2x pocket receipts inside in opposite directions
• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x skirt-front opposite
• 2x receipt front opposite
• 1x belt loops
• 1x Ripper understep
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x sleeve band
• 2x belt

also with insert:

• 1x upper collar
• 1x undercollar

also with band:

• 2x pocket facing inside access
• 2x slip front neckline and center front
• 2x front neckline

From lining you need:

• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Start processing the back piece. To do this, close the center back right sides together and neaten the seam allowances together. Then iron the seam allowances to the left side of the body.

The rear skirt yokes are right sides together and are trimmed together. Iron the seam allowances to the left side of the body.

Place the back skirt sections right sides together and neaten together. Iron the seam allowances to the left side of the body.

Now sew the skirt yoke to the skirt part, right sides together (overcast the seam allowances and iron them down),

... the back part right sides together to the yoke (overcast the seam allowances together and iron them upwards), ...

... the outer upper yoke right sides together on the back piece and ...

... the inner yoke, right sides together , also on the back piece. Iron both yokes upwards so that the seam allowances disappear inwards.

The quilting is close to the edge and the width of a quilting foot. Begin your topstitching at the center back and continue with the waist and yoke seams.

It continues with the processing of the pockets in your dress. The inside of the pocket facings, which have been cut to size and taped with tape, are trimmed along the long curve.

You also neaten the curves of the two pocket facings.

Now place the prepared pocket facings, wrong sides together, on the pocket bags made of lining fabric and sew them in place along the finished edge with a straight stitch. With an auxiliary seam you additionally secure the straight edges on the pocket bag.

Now close the center front of the skirt front parts right sides together up to the beginning of the zipper and neaten the seam allowances together. Iron the seam allowances to the right side of the body.

Now place the finished pocket pouches on the pocket opening edge of the skirt front parts right sides together and sew them together with 1cm. For curves, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The seam allowances can be laid flat because they can spread apart when you turn them over. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. We therefore recommend that you sew with a smaller stitch length. In order to get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can first iron out the seam allowance and only then turn the pocket bag inside out.

Now you fold the pocket bag, right sides together, on top of each other. Sew the bag together at the curve and neaten the seam allowances together.

Place an auxiliary seam of 0.5 cm so that the pocket is held correctly and can be included later.

Stitch the pocket openings just under the edge and the width of your stitching foot. Your pockets are done. Topstitch the front center edge just barely and iron the upper sections for the zipper with 1cm. FYI: Snap the seam allowances at the bottom so that the center front can be ironed apart more easily.

Next up is sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Then sew the front pieces to the front skirt pieces, right sides together. Overcast the seam allowances and iron them up. Here, too, you iron around the center front with 1 cm.

For the topstitching of the waist seam, topstitch just under the edge and the width of a stitching foot.

Begin by preparing the belt loops. On the strip for the belt loops, neaten one of the long sides. Then iron the unfinished raw edge, wrong sides together, and then fold the finished edge over it. Iron everything flat.

Finally, stitch along the long sides along the edge. Cut the strip into 3 belt loops of the same size.

Tie a loop onto the dress at the center back marking on the pattern.

Fasten two loops onto the dress at the markings on the front .

The front part is prepared and the matching zipper can be visibly sewn into the center front. Lay it right sides together on the ironed front edge of the right and left side of the body and stitch it in place. The ironed edge is next to the teeth of the ripper.

You have already sewn the outer and inner yoke to the back part. The next step is to connect the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. First sew the outer yoke together with the respective front parts right sides together and iron the seam allowances to the back.

The inner yoke is folded to the shoulder seam. Then you crawl from the open neckline into the shoulder seam, grab the 3 seam allowances. Sew these three layers together. The outer yoke is right sides together on the front piece and the inner yoke is right sides together on the front piece.

Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances point backwards, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inner and outer yokes. Iron the whole thing flat. To continue working, we stapled the layers together at the neckline and armholes with a large stitch. So nothing moves anymore.

Stitch the shoulders and yoke seams just under the edge and the width of a stitching foot.

Iron the breast pockets all the way around according to the pattern and stitch the double folded and folded opening just under the edge.

Position your breast pocket on the markings in the pattern or adjust the position on your own body. Stitch both pockets close to the edge and the width of a stitching foot.

Lay the zipper underlay right sides together and sew off the sloping corner according to the pattern.

After turning over and ironing into the fold, neaten the lower raw edge of the zipper underlay.

The front slip is trimmed all around according to the yellow lines in the photo.

Lay the zipper underlay, wrong sides together, on the front facing on the right side of the body and stitch it in place.

Now sew the prepared slip, right sides together, to the center front with the zipper already sewn on. Iron everything inside out: turn the facing inside out and tuck the zip fly under the zipper.

Also sew the left body facing to your center front.

This is what both receipts and the Reißer underlay look like processed from the inside.

Place the upper and lower collar, right sides together, on top of each other and sew them together. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Secure the lower edge with an auxiliary seam, pushing both fabrics on top of each other with the same edges for the so-called roll width of the upper collar. Stitch the collar close to the edge and stitch-foot wide.

Lay the prepared collar left sides together in the finished neckline and stitch through to the snap.

Now you stitch the undercollar onto the back neckline.

Fold the facings onto the front neck holes and stitch them through. Trim the seam allowances at the front corner. But check beforehand whether the receipt has been folded correctly. Cut the seam allowances of the curve slightly.

Turn up the upper collar and stitch it through the edge. Preferably you hit the back in the shadow of the seam.

Now topstitch the ripper edges just under the edge and the width of a stitching foot.

... and secure the Reißer slip on the left slip.

Now sew the side seams of the front and back pieces right sides together. Neat the seam allowances together and press them to the back.

Iron the hem according to the pattern and stitch tightly into the edge.

Lay the cuffs on top of each other in a fold, right sides facing, and stitch all the way around. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Use a suitable tool to turn the ribbons right side out and stitch through the ribbons one foot wide.

The bottom ends are trimmed.

Sew the ribbons to the wrong side of the sleeve. Pay attention to the markings in the cut.

Now the sleeve can be sewn together right sides together and neatened. Iron the seam allowances towards the back.

Punch buttonholes in both cuffs.

Iron the hem of the sleeves in and over twice and stitch them tight at the edges.

The button is attached to the right side of the fabric.

Sew both sleeves right sides together into the armholes and neaten the seam allowances.

As a final sewing step, only the belt has to be processed. To do this, place both belt parts right sides together and sew the center back together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Then place the belt right sides together and sew it up according to the yellow line in the photo. Note the open hole near the center back for belt overturning.

Turn your belt over, turn it through the hole in the middle and close this opening by stitching the topstitching just under the edge and the width of your stitching foot.

Your TONJE is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.