We are happy about our fifth pattern in collaboration with Emilea . Manu's wish was a dress cut , sporty and, as you already know from the other cuts, with many great highlights. Whether it's the seams with decorative seams, the zip in the center front or the sleeves that can be rolled up with the help of a bar and button, together they stand for a typical "Manu piece". Classic jeans details such as the back yoke or the rounded pockets in the skirt part go wonderfully with the look and in combination with a denim fabric you can sew this modern classic yourself.
Center Back Length = 102 - 108 cm
Tonje was sewn from a denim fabric in these instructions.
We recommend a denim fabric or a similar solid fabric with elastane and a thin cotton fabric as a contrast.
|Sizes 34-42||outer fabric||2.30 m||140cm wide|
|Sizes 44-50||outer fabric||2.90 m||140cm wide|
|Sizes 34-50||contrast||0.30 m||140cm wide|
|Sizes 34-50||inlay||0.60 m||90 cm wide|
|Sizes 34-50||tear ntlb.||1 piece||55cm long|
|Sizes 34-50||Buttons||12mm||2 pieces|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabrics and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the back piece, back yoke and collar outside in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric:
- 2x yoke-back in break
- 2x back piece in opposite directions
- 2x saddle-rear opposite
- 2x skirt-rear opposite
- 2x chest pockets in opposite directions
- 2x pocket slip opposite
- 2x pocket receipts inside in opposite directions
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x skirt-front opposite
- 2x receipt front opposite
- 1x belt loops
- 1x Ripper understep
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x sleeve band
- 2x belt
also with insert:
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
also with band:
- 2x pocket facing inside access
- 2x slip front neckline and center front
- 2x front neckline
From lining you need:
- 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Start processing the back piece. To do this, close the center back right sides together and neaten the seam allowances together. Then iron the seam allowances to the left side of the body.
The rear skirt yokes are right sides together and are trimmed together. Iron the seam allowances to the left side of the body.
Place the back skirt sections right sides together and neaten together. Iron the seam allowances to the left side of the body.
Now sew the skirt yoke to the skirt part, right sides together (overcast the seam allowances and iron them down),
... the back part right sides together to the yoke (overcast the seam allowances together and iron them upwards), ...
... the outer upper yoke right sides together on the back piece and ...
... the inner yoke, right sides together , also on the back piece. Iron both yokes upwards so that the seam allowances disappear inwards.
The quilting is close to the edge and the width of a quilting foot. Begin your topstitching at the center back and continue with the waist and yoke seams.
It continues with the processing of the pockets in your dress. The
You also neaten the curves of the two pocket facings.
Now close the center front of the skirt front parts right sides together up to the beginning of the zipper and neaten the seam allowances together. Iron the seam allowances to the right side of the body.
Stitch the pocket openings just under the edge and the width of your stitching foot. Your pockets are done. Topstitch the front center edge just barely and iron the upper sections for the zipper with 1cm. FYI: Snap the seam allowances at the bottom so that the center front can be ironed apart more easily.
A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip
Then sew the front pieces to the front skirt pieces, right sides together. Overcast the seam allowances and iron them up. Here, too, you iron around the center front with 1 cm.
For the topstitching of the waist seam, topstitch just under the edge and the width of a stitching foot.
Tie a loop onto the dress at
The front part is prepared and the matching zipper can be visibly sewn into the center front. Lay it right sides together on the ironed front edge of the right and left side of the body and stitch it in place. The ironed edge is next to the teeth of the ripper.
Stitch the shoulders and yoke seams just under the edge and the width of a stitching foot.
Iron the breast pockets all the way around according to the pattern and stitch the double folded and folded opening just under the edge.
Position your breast pocket on the markings in the pattern or adjust the position on your own body. Stitch both pockets close to the edge and the width of a stitching foot.
Lay the zipper underlay right sides together and sew off the sloping corner according to the pattern.
After turning over and ironing into the fold, neaten the lower raw edge of the zipper underlay.
The front slip is trimmed all around according to the yellow lines in the photo.
Lay the zipper underlay, wrong sides together, on the front facing on the right side of the body and stitch it in place.
Now sew the prepared slip, right sides together, to the center front with the zipper already sewn on. Iron everything inside out: turn the facing inside out and tuck the zip fly under the zipper.
Also sew the left body facing to your center front.
This is what both receipts and the Reißer underlay look like processed from the inside.
Secure the lower edge with an auxiliary seam, pushing both fabrics on top of each other with the same edges for the so-called roll width of the upper collar. Stitch the collar close to the edge and stitch-foot wide.
Lay the prepared collar left sides together in the finished neckline and stitch through to the snap.
Now you stitch the undercollar onto the back neckline.
Fold the facings onto the front neck holes and stitch them through. Trim the seam allowances at the front corner. But check beforehand whether the receipt has been folded correctly. Cut the seam allowances of the curve slightly.
Turn up the upper collar and stitch it through the edge. Preferably you hit the back in the shadow of the seam.
Now topstitch the ripper edges just under the edge and the width of a stitching foot.
... and secure the Reißer slip on the left slip.
Now sew the side seams of the front and back pieces right sides together. Neat the seam allowances together and press them to the back.
Iron the hem according to the pattern and stitch tightly into the edge.
Lay the cuffs on top of each other in a fold, right sides facing, and stitch all the way around.
Use a suitable tool to turn the ribbons right side out and stitch through the ribbons one foot wide.
The bottom ends are trimmed.
Sew the ribbons to the wrong side of the sleeve. Pay attention to the markings in the cut.
Now the sleeve can be sewn together right sides together and neatened. Iron the seam allowances towards the back.
Punch buttonholes in both cuffs.
Iron the hem of the sleeves in and over twice and stitch them tight at the edges.
The button is attached to the right side of the fabric.
Sew both sleeves right sides together into the armholes and neaten the seam allowances.
As a final sewing step, only the belt has to be processed. To do this, place both belt parts right sides together and sew the center back together. Iron the seam allowances apart.
Then place the belt right sides together and sew it up according to the yellow line in the photo. Note the open hole near the center back for belt overturning.
Turn your belt over, turn it through the hole in the middle and close this opening by stitching the topstitching just under the edge and the width of your stitching foot.
Your TONJE is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to email@example.com. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.