You should have some sewing experience for our sewing pattern Dagmar jogging pants . The highlight of the sweatpants are the quilted tucks in the front, which enhance the otherwise classic cut. The feel-good pants also have two side pockets and an elastic waistband with a drawstring at the waist. The pants are perfect for the home office, but of course also for sports and leisure.
side length = 100 cm
Dagmar was sewn from a firmer jersey in this pattern.
Required material:
| Sizes 34-42 | outer fabric | 1.50 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 44-50 | outer fabric | 2.00 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | rubber band | 74-112cm | 3 cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | cord | 116-130cm |
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front waistband and back waistband in a fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. 
You need from fabric:
- 2 x front trousers in opposite directions
- 2 x hind trousers in opposite directions
- 1x front part waistband in break
- 1x back part waistband in break
- 1x pouch bags in opposite directions
- 2x front cuffs
- 2x back pant cuffs
also with band:
- 2x pocket opening
also with insert:
- 1x buttonhole position waistband
Sewing instructions:
To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing! 
Sew the tucks on the front trouser legs (according to the marking on the pattern). To do this, place the front trousers in the fold, wrong sides together, and then topstitch the edge on the right side of the fabric next to the fold. 
Place the pocket pouches, right sides together, on the front pants and sew them together at the pocket opening edge. Then cut back the seam allowance a little and fold the pocket bag onto the wrong side of the pants. 
Fold the lower pocket bag outwards at the middle snap, now it is right sides together. Sew the pocket bag together along the bottom edge and neaten the seam allowance. 
Secure the bag at the waist and hem: 0.5cm from the top edge and 0.5cm from the side seam. 
Iron the pocket opening in the edge and topstitch the width of your stitching foot. 
Lay the front and back pants on top of each other, right sides together, and sew the side seams together. The seam allowance is neatened and ironed to the back. 
Then fold one pair of pant legs together, right sides together, and sew up the inner leg seam. This seam allowance is also trimmed together and ironed to the back. 
Insert one of the finished trouser legs into the other, turning one trouser leg right side out and leaving the other inside out. Line up the edges of the seat seam: This will allow the seat seam to lie flat on top of each other and make it easier to sew together. You neaten the seam allowance together. 
Connect the front and back trouser leg hems, right sides together, on the sides. Iron the seam allowance apart and then the cuffs, wrong sides together, in the fold. 
Sew the cuffs to the open edges, right sides together, onto the trouser legs, paying attention to the front and back pieces. All seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the top. Finally, you can topstitch the seam just under the edge. 
Next up is the covenant. Sew in two buttonholes at the markings on the front waistband and cut them open. 
Sew the front and back waistband, right sides together, at the short ends and iron the seam allowances apart. Neaten the edge of the inside waistband and iron it flat. 
Now sew the outer waistband (with buttonholes), right sides together, to the waistband and iron it upwards. 
Take the cords and sew one to each side seam in the waistband (at the marker notches). Push the loose end of the cord through the buttonholes from the inside out and tie a knot in the cord at the end. 
Fold the inner waistband, left to left, in the fold. The finished edge is now over the waistband seam. Stitch the waistband (from the right) tightly around the edge... 
… on the left half of the body, a little behind the side seam, leave an opening of approx. 3cm for the elastic band. 
Pull the rubber band through this opening. Sew the ends together and close the opening. To keep it from twisting in the waistband, secure it at the side seams.
Your DAGMAR is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen. 
