Sewing instructions Overall Ulani

July 7, 2022

The Overall Ulani is another pattern that was created in collaboration with Manu, alias @emilea. The deep V-cuts in the front and back immediately catch the eye with Ulani, as does the body-hugging fit thanks to the waist and bust darts. We have equipped the jumpsuit with 3 lengths - long, 7/8 and a shorts version.

Side length of the trousers in the long variant = 107 cm

in the 7/8 variant = 91 cm

in the shorts variant = 45 cm

Ulani was sewn from a bamboo weave in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Ulani”

Required material:

We recommend a flowing but not too thin fabric, like Crepe , twill or one Viscose/polyester blend.

Sizes 34-42

long version - outer fabric 2.40 m 140 cm wide
7/8 version - outer fabric 2.30 m 140 cm wide
short version - outer fabric 1.80 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 44-50

long version - outer fabric 2.80 m 140 cm wide
7/8 version - outer fabric 2.70 m 140 cm wide
short version - outer fabric 2.00 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 34-50

Seam ripper 1x 35 cm long
Forming tape 1 m, 12 mm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

2x hind trousers in opposite directions
2x front trousers in opposite directions
1x front part in break
2x back piece in opposite directions
2x pocket bags in opposite directions
1x belt in break
2x bias binding armhole in the oblique FDL

also with insert:

1x document in front in the rupture
2x receipt back opposite
1x cutting tip

also with band:

1x excerpt receipt front
2x excerpt receipt at the back
2x pocket pouch pocket opening on the left side of the fabric

Sewing instructions:

To sew this overall you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

If you use a zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

Start your new jumpsuit by processing the front pockets. Place the pocket pouches right sides together on the front pants and sew them together.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the pocket bag, if it is not specially stitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the pocket bag is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances.

Here you can see a detail photo of a flat-stitched seam.

Overturn and fold the pocket bag inwards and place it right sides together in a fold under the pocket opening. Then sew the bag shut and neaten the raw edges together.

You secure the fold in the front pants with an auxiliary seam.

After you have processed the front pockets, you can neaten both front trousers all around.

Now you put both front trousers right sides together and close the front crotch seam about 10 cm down, so you can better attach the front part later and sew the two together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Next up is sewing the waist darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center front.

The front bust dart must also be processed. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Neaten the side and shoulder seams of the front piece,...

...as well as the bottom edges of the front and back slips.

Then place the front facing on the front piece right sides together and sew both together. Pinch the curves a bit and clip the seam allowances correctly at the top. As a result, the seam allowance can spread when it is folded over and the facing later lies wonderfully on the inside.

Here you can see a detail photo of how I cut the tip.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-quilted slip.

The front part and the trouser legs are connected by placing both right sides together and stitching through. Pay attention to your accuracy of darts and folds. Overcast the seam allowances and iron them up.

It continues with the sewing of the waist darts from the back part. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center back.

In the back section, too, neaten the side and shoulder seams of the back sections,...

... as well as the back parts of the pants all around.

Iron the hems of the front and back pant legs.

Place the fold in the back pant and secure with an auxiliary seam.

Now place the prepared back part on one trouser leg, right sides together, and sew the two together. Pay attention to the exact meeting of the darts with the fold. Overcast the seam allowances and iron them up.

Close a small piece in the seat seam. Start from the snap that shows the end of the zipper and end about 10cm further down.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the partially closed seat seam.

Now process the seam zipper in the center back. When sewing, make sure that the waist lines meet directly. Slightly iron out the zipper on the wrong side of the fabric.

Now look at the rear receipts, which you have already cleaned up. Iron the short, lower, trimmed section down by 1 cm. Then place the facing on the zipper and sew it in place at the center back.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed documents.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-quilted slip.

Also, stitch the cutout of the facing onto the two back pieces, right sides together.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-quilted slip.

Secure the ironed section of the facing at the waist seam allowances with an auxiliary seam.

Place your shoulders right sides together and stitch through. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron the bias binding for the armhole, wrong sides together, in a fold.

When open, the armhole is best processed with the bias binding. Place the ribbons right sides together at the armholes and stitch through. Trim the seam allowances to 0.7cm so that they don't stick out later.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also causes the bias binding to automatically lie inwards and not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the tape is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.