Sewing instructions for the Capri dress

Level : demanding - for professionals

Length of anterior neck mirror point: 106-114 cm

Materials needed:

We recommend flowing fabrics such as viscose or silk.

Knee-length dress

Sizes 34-42 Sizes 44-50

outer fabric outer fabric

2.50 m 2.70 m

140 cm wide

long dress Sizes 34-42 Size 44-50

outer fabric

3.00 m 3.20m

140 cm wide 140cm wide

Elastic band 0.5cm wide: all sizes 12cm

Capri was used in this guide from a viscose satin with elastane sewn.

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay out the back piece, collar stand, undercollar, and upper collar on the fold. All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the ends of the darts. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfaced first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

• 1x front part in breakage
• 1x front panel in a broken piece
• 2x armhole facing, mirrored
• 1x back piece in half
• 4x carriers opposite each other
  
• 1x back panel facing in half
• 2x band opposite
  

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You grab the front piece and start by sewing the bust darts.

A simple, straight dart is created, after the pattern has been accurately transferred and the markings carefully observed, on the wrong side of the fabric, notch to notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the point. (with it  (The dart doesn't bunch up) is closed and sewn. Draw a line beforehand with tailor's chalk so you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam finishes nice and straight.
To avoid having to backstitch at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. The bust dart is then pressed upwards.

Now you're doing the detailed preparation:

First, take all the facings and iron them over by 1cm on the side that is NOT sewn to the front or back piece.

Next, sew the back straps together, right sides facing, along the long sides and the top short side. Trim the corners of the seam allowance,...

...the back pieces turned right side out and ironed flat....

...and fold over the upper, inverted edge according to the cutting instructions and stitch it down. The ribbon will later be threaded through this tunnel.

Since you're already working on the details, you can also finish the band. Sew the band together at the center front and press the seam open. Turn the band right side out, leaving a small opening for turning. Carefully trim the ends.

Trick 17: Take a wooden spoon, slip one end of the ribbon over it, and push it through until you reach the opening. Do the same with the other end of the ribbon.

Finally, iron the band flat and topstitch the opening from the right side close to the edge.

Now it's time for the big assembly. To avoid any confusion with the straps, lay out the back piece and the straps as they need to be positioned later.

Now fold the straps down onto your back and pin the back facing to them, right sides together.

You stitch it in place and then clip the seam allowance at a few points.

The seam allowance is topstitched flat on the facing, the facing is folded inwards and pressed flat. Now you can also topstitch the lower edge of the facing...but how do you attach the elastic? It's very simple: mark where the elastic should start and end (see pattern), then take a safety pin and attach the elastic.

When the end of the elastic reaches the first marking point, stitch it down right there!

You pull the elastic to the end of the tunnel, remove the safety pin and carefully let the elastic slide back to the second mark...uh, yeah what?...and stitch all the way through here too.

Hooray, the back is finished!

On to the front section:

Stitch the armhole facings to the armholes right sides together and then clip the seam allowance.

The seam allowance is stitched flat onto the facing, the facing is folded inwards and ironed flat.

The open edges are ironed over by 1cm, in case you haven't already done so during preparation.

Next, we'll work on the front neckline facing. You've already ironed the lower, longer edge under by 1 cm. Fold it over again, because now the two narrow, outer edges will be folded under twice by 1 cm and stitched down. Only then should the lower seam allowance be folded upwards.

Place the neckline facing right sides together on your front piece and turn the seam right side out.

The facing only extends to the seam where the armhole facing begins; cut the seam allowance in several places.

Fold the neckline facing upwards, fold the armhole facing onto the front piece and stitch it close to the edge.

This is what your front neckline looks like now.

Fold the facing inwards and stitch the bottom edge down. Now you have everything nice and neat, and a tunnel for your ribbon :)

...and just like that, the front part is finished too!

You sew the side seams right sides together, neaten the seam allowance and press it forward.

Fold the hem over twice by 0.5 cm if you plan on cursing like a sailor while sewing. Otherwise, overlock the bottom edge and fold it over once by 1 cm. That'll save your sanity.

Now you can pull the ribbon through the front tunnel and the strap tunnels. It's best to do this with a safety pin.

Your CAPRI dress is finished!

Extra tip:

Take a look in your jewelry box; perhaps you'll find a chain that you can use as an alternative to a "band" for more formal occasions.

Do you like wearing short sleeves?

We have a sleeve pattern for you that you can attach to your tie belt. The strap sits between the front neckline and the back straps.

• 2x front sleeves, mirrored
• 2x sleeves back, mirrored
• 2x diagonal stripes

You overlock the upper arm seam on the front and back sleeves from the top edge to the beginning of the slit. Place the front sleeve right sides together with the back sleeve and sew the seam. Press the slit open twice by 1 cm.

Finish the underarm seam, then overlock the seam and iron it towards the back.

Overlock the hem all the way around and iron it according to the notch. You fold over the hem first and only then the 2x2 slit.

You can now sew the hem and then the slit.

Place the bias strip right sides together on the armhole and sew it in place all the way around.

Iron the bias strip inwards and fold it over the seam allowance. The seam allowance should be placed on the wrong side of the fabric.

The upper edge of the sleeve is now serged, folded over 3cm, and topstitched. This is the tunnel through which the tie at the neck is threaded.

The short sleeve for your Capri dress is finished.

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.