Sewing Instructions Dress Chester

Required material:

We recommend cotton fabrics, wool fabrics, corduroy or a sturdy Romanit.

Chester was sewn here from a denim fabric.

sizes 34-42

sizes 44-50

outer fabric

outer fabric

1.70 m

2.00 m

 140 cm wide

sizes 34-50

insert

form band

1.10 m

2.50 m

90 cm wide

buttons 7 pieces

2.2cm diameter

bias tape armhole 1.20m

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut the pattern pieces out of your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back piece, collar stand, under and upper collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric because this is always a middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to cut all outer fabric pieces that are to be completely covered with interfacing roughly first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

  • 2x front part opposite with shaping band
  • 2x back part opposite with shaping band
  • 2x back yoke opposite with shaping band
  • 2x back yoke opposite
  • 2x back pocket opposite
  • 2x front pocket opposite
  • 2x pocket facings at the front

also with insert:

  • 2x front part facing opposite

...and from food:

  • 2x armhole strips opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start by preparing all the pockets for the front and back.

Neaten the "long" curve of the pocket facing, then place it right sides together on the front pocket, turning the "short" curve and the straight edges together. The seam allowance is clipped, the corners cut off, the facing is turned right side out and ironed flat.

Now iron all open edges 1cm and stitch the rounded edge 0.2 and 0.7cm.

Next, we'll move on to the back pocket: iron the top edge 2x2cm, then fold the fold onto the right side of the fabric at the top fold and turn the 2cm long edge over. Don't forget to trim the corners!

Now fold the fold back inwards, iron the edges 1cm all around with the help of the pocket template and stitch the upper edge...Attention: at approx. 1.5cm and 2cm.

Here's another tip: copy the iron-on template onto cardboard, then you can place the seam allowances really well around the edge.

You sew the dart in the front part. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip. (with it  the dart does not bunch up) is closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you do not sew too much or too little and the side seam ends nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. The dart is ironed upwards.

From size 44 onwards, a second dart is added from the side seam, which is processed in the same way as described.

You can also neaten the side seam at the same time.

You can choose whether you want the darts in the back or not. This is how they are sewn: first, mark the dart marking points and connect them with lines.

Fold the dart lengthways and pin the two middle points together. Then sew from one point with a locking mechanism diagonally to the middle and then to the other point. So that you don't have to lock at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the darts towards the center back. The waist darts are now finished. The darts can be stitched close to the edge.

Next, the pockets are stitched onto the front and back pieces with 0.2 and 0.7 cm respectively.

On the back part, neaten the lengthwise seams, then close the center back with right sides together, iron the seam allowance open and topstitch it 0.2cm on both sides.

First, neaten the front facing along the long edge. Then, sew the facing right sides together with the front piece. The seam allowance is clipped at the neckline and the seam corner is cut off.

Now the front and back pieces can be sewn together at the side seam, right sides together. The seam allowance is ironed apart.

The hem is neatened, the seam allowance is ironed up 3cm and stitched through at 2.8cm.

Next, we move on to the armhole. Iron the armhole strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and then pin it into the armhole along the open edge, right sides together.

The strip is stitched in place, the seam allowance is clipped into the curves and then ironed inwards.

Before the armhole and the front edge are topstitched, the yoke has to be sewn in between. This will be a bit fiddly, but we'll manage ;-)

The outer yoke (the one with the shaping band) and the inner yoke are ironed over 1cm at the armhole and neckline.

Now slide the front shoulder between the yoke pieces and stitch the seam.

Pin the pieces (inside and outside) together so that they fit snugly and then pin them right sides together to the back piece.

You close the seam, neaten the seam allowance and iron it down.

Now the big quilting begins:

Start with the seam you just closed and stitch it 0.2 and 0.7 cm.

Now start at the yoke in the back center and stitch the entire neckline to the front hem 0.2 and 0.7cm

You start again at the yoke to stitch the armhole in one go, also 0.2 and 0.7 cm.

Now it's time for the buttonholes. They have to be tucked into the right front piece. If you want to fix the front piece facing in place, then stitch behind the buttonholes again. In my case, it's 5cm from the front edge. This distance depends on the buttonhole length/button size.

Finally, the buttons are sewn on,

your CHESTER is ready!

If you don't know what to do or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Best regards, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.

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