Sewing instructions for the Cordoba dress

Level : medium - for experienced
 
In this tutorial, Cordoba was sewn from a soft draping viscose print.

Required materials:

We recommend viscose, cotton, silk, light denim fabrics

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	2.80 m	140 cm wide
	insert	1.10 m	90 cm wide
	buttons	13 pcs.	1.2 cm diameter
Sizes 40-50	Outer fabric	3.20 m	140 cm wide
	insert	1.10 m	90 cm wide
	buttons	13 pcs.	1.2 cm diameter

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the back piece, collar stand, and undercollar and overcollar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you've secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 2x front part opposite
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x pass in the fraction
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 4x pocket bags opposite
• 1x belt loops, 2 pieces

• 2x skirt front opposite
• 1x skirt at the back in the fold
• 2x hem ruffles in the fold

also with insert:

• 1x upper collar in the fold
• 1x undercollar in the fold
• 2x bridge in the fracture
• 2x belts opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start by sewing the bust darts.           

A simple, straight dart is made, after exactly transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip. (with it  Close and sew the dart (the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't over-stitch or under-stitch and the side seam ends nicely and straight.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

It is then ironed upwards.

Next, pin the pleats to the waist seam, both on the front and the skirt, and secure them with a stitch.

Insert so-called gathering threads into the waist edge of the skirt. These help to achieve even gathering. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. At the beginning and end of the auxiliary seams, do not backtack; instead, leave about 10 cm of thread at each end. Sew two gathering seams approximately 1 cm apart, at 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm from the raw edge, so that the later seam runs exactly between the two auxiliary seams. Pay attention to the pattern markings to determine which area should be gathered.

Then carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and push the fabric together until you reach the seam width of the top part.

Now sew the front piece and the skirt piece together right sides together, remove the seam threads, neaten the seam allowance and iron it upwards.

The side seam is neatened and at the same time you also neaten the two "straight edges" on all the pocket bags.

Now you can sew the pocket pouches to the front skirt, right sides together. Note: The pocket pouches are only sewn from notch to notch. Topstitch the pocket pouch along the seam allowance inside the pocket opening.

Iron the front edge according to the cutting instructions and stitch it at about 2.3cm.

Now it's time for the back. Sew the yoke to the back piece, right sides together, neaten the seam allowance, and press it into the yoke.

The following steps are exactly the same as for the front piece: Fold, pin, gather the skirt piece, sew it to the back piece, neaten the side seam, and sew the pocket pouch inside the notch. However, the seam allowance is NOT stitched flat on the pocket pouch!

Now place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the shoulder seams. Finish the seam allowances together and press them back into the yoke.

Next, close the side seam from the hem to the bottom pocket opening, then from the top pocket opening to the armhole. Press the seam allowance open, pressing the two pocket pouches to the front.

Now close the pocket pouches and neaten the seam allowances. Sew the pocket pouch to the waist seam allowance at the top.

Next we move on to the sleeve.

Finish the side seams, then fold the seam allowance outward and press the hem edge over 1 cm. Now you can transfer the cutting mark. The easiest way is to fold the hem over on the pattern and cut out the gusset.

Carefully cut the wedge all the way to the tip, then turn everything right side out and iron it flat.

You close the sleeve side seam, iron the seam allowance open and stitch the pre-ironed hem.

Sew the sleeves into the corresponding armholes, neaten the seam and iron the seam allowance in the ball area (at the top of the shoulder) into the sleeve.

Now lay the dress aside and grab the collar. Prepare the collar stand. Iron the outer stand over 1 cm.

Place the upper and lower collars right sides together and seam them with a one-centimeter seam allowance. Trim the seam corners.

Turn the collar right side out and iron it flat. Secure the collar width by stitching a gusset seam along the collar stand seam. This is necessary for the collar to lay nicely.

The collar is placed between the stand pieces. Make sure that the outer stand lies on the undercollar.

Now stitch the pieces together. Trim and clip the seam allowance in the rounded corner.

After turning the collar bar right side out and ironing it flat, sew the collar on by pinning the inner collar bar, right sides together, to the neck hole and stitching it in place.

The seam allowance from the neckline is pressed into the collar stand. The previously pressed outer stand is stitched in place close to the edge.

We come to our all-time favorite task: buttonholes! Attention: buttonholes on the right front piece, buttons on the left front piece. Note: always viewed from your own side.

Before we celebrate the finale, let's take care of the belt and belt loops.

Fold the strip for the belt loops lengthwise, right sides together, and sew it together.

Now take a darning needle (which has a rounded tip), a sturdy, thicker yarn (this minimizes the risk of the thread breaking when pulling it through), and sew the thread at one end.

Now, with the needle head first, push the needle and thread through the "tube" until you have turned the entire strip inside out. Iron the loop flat and cut it in half.

Then you stitch it onto the side seam in the waist area.

Sew the belt together at the center back, right sides together, and press the seam allowance open. Then turn the belt right sides together. Leave a small opening for turning. Carefully trim the ends.

You take a wooden spoon, put the end of a belt over it and push it until you reach the opening.

After ironing, stitch the opening in the belt closed.

If you don't feel like using ruffles anymore, just stitch the hem twice 1cm and your shirt dress is ready.

Otherwise, thread the top edge of the front and back ruffles, close the side seams, neaten the seam allowances, and press them forward. The hem is turned under twice 1 cm and stitched.

You pin the center front of the dress together, then gather the ruffle, pin it all the way around, and sew it on. The seam allowance is neatened and ironed upwards.

Your CORDOBA is ready!

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.