Sewing instructions dress Jill

July 28, 2022

The Jill dress is an understated summer dress with a relaxed look. The flattering V-neck and wide three-quarter sleeves make it perfect for everyday wear. The rounded elastic waistband just above the waist accentuates the feminine figure and creates a flattering silhouette.

Length at the back center = 130 cm

Jil was sewn from viscose denim in this tutorial.

→ To the sewing pattern “Jil”

Just so you know in advance:

Materials needed:

We recommend a flowing fabric such as viscose, jersey or silk.

Sizes 34-42

Outer fabric 2.40m (140cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

Outer fabric 2.90m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

Insert 0.40 m (90 cm wide)
Rubber 0.65 - 1.05 m 0.5 cm wide
Forming strip 0.90 m 12 mm wide

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay out the front piece (top), back piece (top), skirt (front), skirt (back), and facings (front and back) on the fold. All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfaced first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

1x front part top in the break
1x back piece top in the fold
2x sleeves, mirrored
1x skirt front in break
1x skirt in the back, broken

also with insert:

1x receipt at the back of the break
1x receipt at the front of the break
1x Front neckline lace

also with shaping tape:

2x neck hole of the documents front and back

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

Begin your sewing project by finishing the side and shoulder seams of the front...

...and back panel.

Neaten the bottom edge of the front and back facings,...

...the side seams and hems of the front...

...and back skirt.

Place the front facing right sides together with the front piece and stitch them together. Clip the seam allowances at the corners with scissors. This will cause the corners to spread open when you turn the piece right side out, allowing the seam allowances to lie flat. It's especially important not to cut into the seam itself. Therefore, we recommend sewing with a shorter stitch length just before and from the point. This will ensure a corner that won't fray easily after trimming.

Next, topstitch the seam allowances flat. This method not only makes the final pressing easier but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, automatically folds inwards and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is topstitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The topstitching line is then only visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched seam.

Place the back facing right sides together with the back piece and stitch them together. Clip or trim the seam allowances on curved edges. This prevents the curves from becoming too bulky when turning the garment right side out and allows the seam allowances to lie flat. It's especially important not to cut into the seam itself. Therefore, we recommend using a shorter stitch length. This will ensure a curve that won't fray as easily after trimming.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched seam.

Place the front and back bodice pieces right sides together and sew the entire shoulder seam. Press the seam allowances open.

Next, sew the side seams right sides together. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. Press the seam allowances open.

Iron the facings to the inside and secure them to the outer fabric with pins. This will prevent them from slipping while sewing.

Iron the hems of the front and back skirts once.

Sew the side seams of the skirts together, right sides facing, and press the seam allowances open.

Then stitch the hem tightly all around, close to the edge.

The waist seam is finished with a right-left seam, creating a tunnel through which an elastic band can later be threaded. Sew a 0.5 cm wide seam, joining the bodice to the skirt wrong sides together . Remember to leave a 1 cm opening for the elastic band!

There is also a video about the right-left seam here.