---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---
Two versions - one cut, from now on our Martha pattern is also available in a long-sleeved version, you can simply choose: without sleeves as before or with 3/4-length sleeves.
Jersey dresses are so wonderfully uncomplicated to wear, they don't stretch or pinch anywhere and follow every movement without hesitation. The Martha dress is particularly suitable for women who have a little more curves. Due to the folds on the right side of the body, the body shapes are not emphasized too much, and the dress also looks more feminine and dressed. The women's dress is not difficult to sew, but requires some experience in handling and reading patterns.
Length at center back = 98 - 103 cm
Martha was sewn from a soft jersey in this pattern.
Required material:
We recommend a flowing jersey with a percentage of elastane.
Sizes 34-38- Outer fabric 1.70m (140cm wide)
- Outer fabric 1.90m (140cm wide)
- Outer fabric 2.60m (140cm wide)
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabrics . Lay the fabric right side up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk . Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin .
You need from fabric:
- 1x front part
- 2x back piece in opposite directions
- 1x neck strip
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
Sewing instructions:
To sew this dress you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!
Lay the two pleats on the shoulders according to the pattern and sew them in place.
Do the same with the small pleats on the right side of the front piece; place and fasten according to the cutting mark.
Continue on the side seam: Here, using the largest stitch, topstitch a seam from the side to the cross in the pattern. Then you cut the track even further, up to about 3-4cm before the end.
Knot one end and gather the section until it is as long as the section on the opposite side. Then lay the two stretches on top of each other and sew them together (they are two darts).
Now pin the seam allowance of the darts together and then sew them together. A seam is created in which the folds are centered over the dart seam.
Now you have a small tunnel, which you flatten like a box crease and preferably stitch on the side.
Sew the two back pieces together in the center back, right sides together, and iron.
Now sew the shoulder and side seams together right sides together and iron.
For the winter variant, you can now sew the sleeves to the armhole and then close the entire side seam plus sleeve seam (here: as in the photos) or you can first sew the side seams of the dress and sleeves together and then insert the sleeve into the dress. If you want to sew the dress without sleeves, i.e. the summer version, then sew the two armholes in exactly the same way as the neckhole, a corresponding strip is included in the pattern.
Take the neck strip and sew it together along the narrow side. You now have to iron this ring in half lengthwise.
Now pin the ribbon, slightly stretched, right sides together at the neckline. Distribute the width evenly, there are a few snaps that will help you with orientation. Then you topstitch the seam flat, iron the band inwards and topstitch at a width of 0.7 cm.
Your MARTHA is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.
--> ENGLISH VERSION <--
Sewing tutorial dress Martha (+ Add-On sleeves)
Two versions - one pattern, from now on our pattern Martha is also available in a long-sleeved version, you can simply choose: without sleeves as before or with 3/4 length sleeves.
Jersey dresses are so wonderfully uncomplicated to wear, they don't stretch or pinch anywhere and follow your every movement without a hitch. The Martha dress is particularly suitable for women who are a little more rounded. The pleated section on the right side of the body does not emphasize the body shapes too much, and the dress also looks more feminine and dressed up. The women's dress is not difficult to sew, but requires some experience with handling and reading patterns.
Length at center back = 98 - 103 cm
Martha was sewn from a soft jersey in this tutorial.
Materials required:
We recommend you a flowing jersey with a spandex content.
Sizes 34-38
- Outer fabric 1.70m (140cm wide)
Sizes 40-44
- Upper fabric 1.90m (140cm wide)
Sizes 46-50
- Outer fabric 2.60m (140cm wide)
cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your fabrics to. Place the fabric with the right side of the fabric facing up. Align the threadl up arrow always in the same direction for all pieces and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm incision with scissors or chalk. . Clip the seam allowance in the fabric break, because this is always a center . Marks define positions of dart endings pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pin.
You need fabric:
- 1x front part
- 2x back part opposite
- 1x neck line tape
- 2x sleeves opposite
Sewing instructions:
For sewing this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively use the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine for neatening the cut edges. Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch, ie if you are sewing with a domestic sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch, and then finish all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or other appropriate stitch to prevent them from fraying. In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Not specially marked seam allowances are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
Place the two pleats at the shoulders according to the pattern and sew them in place.
Do the same with the small pleats on the right side of the front piece; place them according to the cut mark and pin them in place.
Continue at the side seam: Here you stitch a seam from the side to the cross in the cut with the largest stitch. Then you cut the distance even further, until about 3-4cm before the end.
Knot one end and curl the stretch until it is as long as the opposite stretch. Then place the two sections on top of each other and sew them together (in this way they are two darts).
Now pin the seam allowance of the darts on top of each other and sew them together. A seam is created in which the pleat section is centered over the dart seam.
Now you have a small drawstring, which you press flat like a pinch pleat and stitch best at the side.
Sew the two back pieces right sides together at center back and press out.
Now sew the shoulder and side seams right sides together and press them out.
For the winter version, you can now sew the sleeves to the armhole and then close the entire side seam plus the sleeve seam (here: as in the photos) or you can first sew the side seams of the dress and sleeve together and then insert the sleeve into the dress. If you want to sew the dress without sleeves, ie the summer version, then work the two armholes exactly like the neckline, a corresponding strip is included in the pattern.
Take the neckline tape and sew it together at the narrow side. Now you have to iron this ring lengthwise to the half.
Now pin the tape slightly stretched right sides together to the neckline. Distribute the width evenly, there are some notches that serve as orientation. Then topstitch the seam flat, press the tape to the inside and topstitch it at 0.7cm width.
Your MARTHA is ready!
If you get stuck, or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely yours Sewing Pattern Berlin Team.
