NÄHANLEITUNG KNOTKLEID “KEIKI”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS KEIKI DRESS

Keiki scores with the special technique of knotting the two halves of the front part together. The softly falling folds from the knot area do not define the body in the jersey proposed here, but rather flatter it. The beautiful V-neck also emphasizes the feminine lines.

Length at center back = 95-101 cm

In these instructions, Keiki was sewn from a viscose jersey.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing jersey with elastane. The fabric should be opaque as the dress is unlined.

Size 34-40 outer fabric 1.70 m 140cm wide
Size 42-50 outer fabric 2.20 m 140cm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front panel inside the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

  • 2x back piece in opposite directions
  • 2x front part in opposite directions
  • 1x Neck Band
  • 1x front panel inside in break
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions
  • 1x front part-up

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We'll start with the front piece. On the upper front part, iron the neckline edge upwards along the fold.

The ironed fold is folded back again. Then lay the front piece in the center front in a fold, right sides together. Sew the route marked with an X from marker to marker. The quilted seam lies exactly on the previously ironed fold.

Here you can see a detailed photo, from where to where you should sew the route.

Unfold the piece again and you will see that there is an opening in the middle.

Now comes the slightly more complicated part of the dress. Sew the bridge of the opening together, right sides together, along section E. Marked here on the paper cut.

Sew the bridge of the opening together, right sides together, along section E. Marked here on the fabric cutting. Then turn the front part right side out through the hose into the desired position.

Place the two lower front pieces together, right sides together, and sew the center front together from the hem to the marking.

Now overcast sections D to D in the lower front part, iron the section 1 cm inwards and stitch it tight at the edge.

The two narrow ends of the previously prepared lower front part are pulled through the opening of the upper front part from the back to the front.

Fold the strips from the lower part onto the upper part so that the fabric is again right sides together and sew the section together up to the 2nd knip. Be careful not to twist the strips as you fold them over.

Sew the other side of the strip to the lower part. So you have closed the gap. You repeat this on the other side.

So that you don't have a hole in the knot that you can see through, you now sew up the front panel. To do this, clean up the stretch between the two snaps.

You absolutely have to sew the panel, right sides together, inside out. The long edges are sewn to the seam allowance of the dress up to the snap and overcast together.

In the end it looks like this from the inside.

Then you take on the two back parts. Place them right sides together and sew them together in the back seam. The seam allowances are neatened together.

Iron the neck band lengthwise, wrong sides together, in half and sew it together with an auxiliary seam the width of a stitching foot.

Then you needle the tape to the back neck hole, right sides together, and stitch a 1cm seam.

Then you fold the band completely inwards and stitch it tightly.

Not much more and you're almost done, because now you put the shoulder seams of the back and front part, right sides together, on top of each other, unfold the fold of the neckline and sew the shoulders together up to the snap.

Then place the fold from the neckline, right sides together, on the shoulder seam and stitch through with 1cm. The seam allowances are neatened together. The shoulders can be thrown over and everything looks clean.

If you then turn the cut slip over, you have a beautifully finished neckline.

Place the front and back pieces, right sides together, on top of each other at the side seam and sew them together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Now it's the turn of the sleeves. First you iron the hem up. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut. Then sew the sleeves with the hem folded up, right sides facing and neaten the seam allowances together. These are then ironed backwards.

The hem of the sleeve is neatened all around...

... folded up and stitched through.

Place the finished sleeves, right sides together, in the appropriate armhole. Make sure that the side seams and the snaps are on top of each other. The seam allowances are neatened together.

The hem of the dress is also trimmed, ironed...

... and quilted.

Your KEIKI is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.

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