Sewing instructions for long-sleeved shirt Luna

November 25, 2021

The special detail of our Luna shirt is the decorative panel at the V-neck. This is backed by a wedge, creating a visual 2-in-1 effect. Luna also invites you to be truly creative with your fabric choices and patch with different fabrics and patterns.

Length at the center back = 68 – 74 cm

→ To the “Luna” pattern

Luna was sewn in this pattern from a soft jersey and silk fabric.

Required materials:

We recommend soft flowing jersey and polyester or silk for patching.

Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric jersey	0.70 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-44	Outer fabric polyester/silk	1.10 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 46-50	Outer fabric polyester/silk	1.45 m	140 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabrics and interfacing . Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front, back, back facing and front neckline on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the thread take-up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts . Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin . It is best to cut out all outer fabric pieces that are to be completely covered with interfacing roughly first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and fixing cut pieces.

You will need fabric:

1x front part in the break
1x back part in the fracture
1x panel at the back in the break
2x front panel, opposite

also with forming tape:

1x inner rear panel
2x inner panel front, opposite

also with insert:

1x outer panel at the back of the break
2x outer panel front, opposite

You will need from Jersey:

2x undersleeves opposite
2x upper sleeves opposite
1x cut-out wedge at the front of the break

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch. This means that if you're using a home sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or a three-part stretch stitch. Then, finish all seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or another similar stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the images show you, in addition to the description, where a seam needs to be sewn or glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We begin by sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and that the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to tack the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart contents upwards.

Then iron the hems of the front and back pieces twice and over.

Close the shoulders, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances, pressing them back.

Place the back panels, right sides together, and sew them together. Notch the seam allowances slightly in the curve.

Place the front panels, right sides together, and sew them together. Notch the seam allowances slightly in the curve.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only facilitates the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, automatically tucks inward and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched panels.

Close the shoulder seams of the facings, unfolded, right sides together and iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron everything together, wrong sides together. Your prepared facing is ready.

The facing is crossed right sides together. Now place the cut jersey neckline piece under the facing and stitch it in place with a stitch the width of your stitching foot.

Place the facing right sides together at the torso neckline and sew everything together. Neaten the seam allowances and press them down.

This is what your finished cutout looks like.

Sew the side seams right sides together with the hem turned up and neaten the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances to the back.

The ironed hem can now be stitched.

Now it's time for your sleeves. To do this, place the undersleeve on the upper sleeve, right sides together, and sew the seam up to the top notch of the slit. Neaten the seam allowances together and notch them at the slit. Press them back.

The sleeve slit looks like this: Place the slit sections right sides together and sew them together. Also close the small seam above the slit. Then turn the two sides right side out and iron them.

Here you can see detailed photos of the slot processing.