NÄHANLEITUNG LANGARMSHIRT “LUNA”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS LONG SLEEVE SHIRT “LUNA”

The special detail of our Luna shirt is the decorative trim in the V-neck. This is backed with a wedge, creating a visual 2 in 1 effect. Luna also invites you to be really creative when choosing fabrics and to patch with different fabrics and patterns.

Length at center back = 68 – 74 cm

→ To the pattern “Luna”

In this pattern, Luna was sewn from a soft jersey and silk fabric.

Required material:

We recommend soft, flowing jersey and polyester or silk for patching.

Sizes 34-50 Jersey outer fabric 0.70 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-44 Outer fabric polyester/silk 1.10 m 140cm wide
Sizes 46-50 Outer fabric polyester/silk 1.45m 140cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabrics and interfacing . Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvages parallel to the middle so that you can place the front, back, back band and front neckline in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts . Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin . It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

  • 1x front part in the break
  • 1x back part in the break
  • 1x panel at the back in the break
  • 2x front panel, opposite

also with form band:

  • 1x inner panel at the back
  • 2x inner panel at the front, opposite

also with insert:

  • 1x outer panel at the back in the break
  • 2x outer panel at the front, opposite

From Jersey you need:

  • 2x undersleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
  • 1x cutout wedge at the front in the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Then double iron the hems of the front and back pieces in and out.

Close the shoulders, right sides together, and finish the seam allowances, pressing them back.

Place the back panels on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together. Clip the seam allowances a little in the curve.

Place the front panels on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together. Clip the seam allowances a little in the curve.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched panels.

Close the shoulder seams of the panels, unfold them, right sides together and iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron everything together inside out. Your prepared aperture is ready.

The aperture crosses right to left. Now place the cut jersey neckline part under the band and stitch it in place with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot.

Place the panel on the neckline of the torso, right sides together, and sew everything together. Finish the seam allowances together and press them down.

This is what your finished cutout looks like.

Close the side seams right sides together with the hem folded up and neaten the seam allowances together. Press the seam allowances back.

The ironed hem can now be stitched through.

Now come to your sleeves. To do this, place the lower sleeve right sides together on the upper sleeve and close the seam up to the top of the slit. Finish the seam allowances together and clip them into place at the slit. Iron them backwards.

The slit in the sleeve looks like this. Place the slit sections right sides together and sew them together. Also close the small seam above the slit. Then turn the two sides over and iron them out.

Here you can see detailed photos of the slot processing.

Double iron the hems of the sleeves in and out.

Now close the inner arm seam right sides together and finish the seam allowances together. Then iron the seam allowances backwards.

Pin the hems of the sleeves before stitching them in place.

Now stitch the hem all around.

Finally, place the sleeve in the correct armhole and sew everything together. Finish the seam allowances together.

Your LUNA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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