Sewing instructions long blouse Urania

The casual shirt Urania can be sewn in two lengths, the shorter version of the tunic is shown in the pattern. Urania is an all-round cut, wearable as a dress in summer and as a top during the rest of the year. The fold in the center front opens up below the button placket and gives the shirt enough comfort.

Center back length = 110cm / 90cm

Urania was sewn from a cotton poplin in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Urania”

Required material:

We recommend a thin cotton, linen or silk fabric.

Sizes 34-42	outer fabric	2.70 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	outer fabric	3.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay Buttons	0.60 m 7 pieces	90 cm wide 10mm diameter

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Cut parts that are completely glued first roughly, then finely. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here. Place the selvedges on top of each other so that you can lay the back part and stand-up collar in the fold. To cut the front piece/top flap, place the right pattern piece on top, cut out both front pieces from the fabric placed in the fold and then cut the left front piece/bottom flap with the corresponding pattern piece. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or with chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that from size 44 bust darts must be processed. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zt-ehz6yRrA

You need from fabric:

• 1x back part in break
• 1x front part right side of body/top step
• 1 x front part left side of body/underlap
• 4x pocket bags, 2 each of the same kind
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x slot strips

also with insert:

• 2x stand-up collar in break
• 2x cuff
• 2x buttonhole position VM

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Begin by overcasting the hems of the front and back pieces.

And iron them according to the cut.

Here you can see a detailed view of the ironed hem.

Also neaten the side seams of the front and...

... and back piece separately.

For the front edge, iron the top and bottom flaps up to the end of the button placket according to the pattern. Also iron the smaller section of the underlap by 1cm and clip the seam allowance a little.

Then sew the front edge together, right sides together, up to the corner and neaten the seam allowances together. Here you have to cut the seam allowances up to the corner so that everything can be laid flat later.

Put everything in the right position and pin the top and bottom flaps in place.

Stitch the top step on the right side of the body just under the edge.

Also stitch the underlap on the left side of the body just under the edge.

Then you stitch down through the sloping cross-stitching on the front part.

Now come to the preparation of the pocket bags. Clean up the openings of the bags,...

...stitch them right sides together onto the front...

... and right sides together on the back part.

Close your shoulders right sides together. Neat the seam allowances together and press them to the back.

Now close the upper part of the side seam right sides together up to the pocket opening and the lower part of the side seam up to the beginning of the slit and iron the seam allowances apart. Iron out the slit at the same time.

Once ironed, close the pocket bag and neaten the seam allowances.

There is an extra template in the pattern that you can use to sew the pocket pouches through the front part.

Now stitch the hem and slit of the dress all the way around.

Now come to the sleeves of the shirt blouse and start with the slit processing. Here we also have a video of the rolled slot.

The sleeve has a cuff with a so-called rolled-in slit. Start slot processing. To do this, place the slit strip right sides together under the incision in the sleeve. Place both under your sewing machine and sew the strip in place, starting at 0.7 cm, with the same edges as the incision. At the top of the cut the seam allowance is only approx. 2mm and ends at 0.7cm again. This means the incision goes straight from 0.7cm to 0.2cm and back to 0.7cm while the seam allowance of the fly strip always stays the same .

The fly strip is then ironed.

To finish the slit, the slit strip must be folded in and out twice and stitched through just under the edge from the right side.

Now you can fix the upper corner of the slit on the inside of the sleeve with a seam running diagonally upwards.

Now the slit can be finished and ironed to the right side. The top step is ironed once and stitched. The understep stays flat. The upper photo is of the left arm for orientation, a slit can always be opened backwards when tightened. Cut the fly strip at the beginning and end to the correct length of the sleeve.

After the slit has been processed, the folds of the sleeve can be laid as shown in the pattern. Use the snaps and the directional arrows in the cut as a guide. Secure the folds with a seam that is the width of a quilting foot.

Sew the inner arm seam right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and iron them to the back.

Iron the seam allowance on the outer side of the cuff.

Place the cuff right sides together and stitch through the short side.

Turn both cuffs right side out and stitch a large-stitch auxiliary seam right next to the ironed seam allowance of the outer cuff.

Now sew the cuff to the sleeve from the inside out. That means you put the inner side of the cuff, right sides together on the sleeve hem, and stitch through to the left of your auxiliary seam. This guarantees you a nice stitching on the outer side of the cuff later. Press the seam allowances up into the cuff.

Now you can also stitch through the pre-ironed outer side of the cuff and land on the inner side of the cuff.

The finished sleeve can now be sewn into the correct armhole, right sides together, and overcast together.

For your information, we have a video here in which Christel shows you how she processes her stand-up collar.

Now come to the processing of the stand-up collar. For this you also iron the outer stand-up collar.

Place both right sides together and topstitch the top seam. For curves, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and notched or cut off. The curves do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. We therefore recommend that you sew in the curve with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a curve that does not fray so quickly after cutting.

Turn your stand-up collar right side out and iron it flat. Stitch an auxiliary seam right next to the ironed seam allowance.

Now sew the stand-up collar to the neck hole from the inside out. That means you put the inner stand-up collar right sides together at the neckline and stitch through to the left of your auxiliary seam. This guarantees you a nice topstitching of the outer stand-up collar later. Iron the seam allowances up into the stand-up collar.

Now you can also stitch through the pre-ironed outer stand-up collar and land on the inner stand-up collar.

Finally, you choose suitable buttons, stitch suitable buttonholes and sew on the buttons in the center front and on the cuffs.

Your URANIA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.