With blouses, the decisive detail is often either the sleeve or the collar, with Sil it is definitely the sleeve. Folded into folds at the sleeve cap, the lavish width is gathered together at the bottom with a high cuff. The
The cuff is closed with 7 small eyelets and buttons, which is reminiscent of the style of the 40s.
Center back length = 62-70 cm.
In this pattern, Sil was sewn from a softly falling viscose.
We recommend a flowing silk , viscose or polyester fabric . A single-colored fabric without exciting patterns is also particularly recommended.
|Sizes 34-42||outer fabric||1.70 m||140cm wide|
|inlay||60 cm||90 cm wide|
|Sizes 44-50||outer fabric||2.00 m||140cm wide|
|inlay||60 cm||90 cm|
|Sizes 34-50||Buttons||19 pieces||8-10mm diameter|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and, where necessary, also from interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the back piece and yoke in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Cross marks define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric:
- 1x back part in break
- 2x pass in break
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x cuff loops
- 2x sleeve slit
also with insert:
- 1x document back part in break
- 2x receipt front part in opposite directions
- 4x cuff sleeves opposite
- 4x anti-fold support
To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
We start by sewing the bust darts. The marking defines the tip of the dart, the two notches on the side seam define the depth of the dart. To do this, place the snaps on top of each other and sew on the wrong side of the fabric up to the marked dart point. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight. You iron the dart content upwards.
Now we take on the two tailored yokes and the back part. Both yokes are placed on the back piece and stitched. Outside right sides together, inside right sides together.
Both yokes are turned over and ironed upwards and connected with the shoulder seams of the front part. In the photo you can see that both yokes were sewn on at the same time. To do this, crawl from the open neckline or armhole into the shoulder seam, grab the 3 seam allowances and sew everything together. There are different techniques how you can sew in a back yoke, all of them are great. You can find the rolled variant here: https://blog.schnittmuster-berlin.de/naehanleitung-bluse-qamar/ . This is what your finished yoke looks like. If you want to secure the yoke again, you are welcome to stitch through the stitching the width of your stitching foot. Next we close the hull. For this, the front and back parts are closed right sides together with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back. Slips reinforce a neckline and make it look clean because everything is tucked together. For this we bring the front cover parts together with the back cover. Then iron the seam allowances apart. The lower longer curve is ironed with 1cm, for later easier processing.
Now we can take a look at the prepared document and the body part. First iron the button placket according to the pattern (fold in twice), then the facing is turned over with the front edge. To do this, the slip is sewn to the front part, right sides together, along the first break/first notch. Work this on both sides of the front edge. Both pattern pieces are shown together for better visibility. The fold 1 is in its ironed position, while the fold 2 is opposite to the ironed position. In this way, the document can be folded all around with the neck hole. As you can see from the photo, I didn't iron the placket beforehand, but I would recommend it. The seam allowances of the facing and body are cut in the curve. Then the seam allowance is flat-stitched as far as you can get . This method not only makes ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically turns inwards if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside, but not from the right side.
Unfold the button placket, turn the hem double over and then topstitch it 0.7 cm wide. Now fold the button plackets back along the ironed folds and stitch through the slip and button placket in one go. The document is secured to the body and the button placket as well. To do this, stitch almost through the edge seen from the wrong side of the fabric, starting at the left hem, over the facing and ending at the right hem. Info: The yellow lines in the photo define the finished stitching line, seen from the right side of the fabric.
Cuff with slit
Begin with the slit processing, for this you lay the slit strip on the right side of the fabric of the sleeve on the right side of the strip. Now sew the 0.7 cm strip to the open incision, the seam allowance at the top of the slit is only approx. 2 mm. (see photo).
The slit strip is ironed over, folded in twice (the sewing line from the beginning of the strip should be covered) and stitched through from the right side .
The upper corner of the slit is fixed on the inside of the sleeve with a seam running diagonally upwards.
Now the slit can be finished and ironed to the correct side. The upper photo is of the left arm for orientation, a slit can always be opened backwards when tightened. The ironed edge can be stitched to the hem to help. Cut the slit strip at the beginning to the length of the sleeve. After the slit has been processed, the folds of the sleeve hem can be folded up as shown in the pattern. Use the snaps and the directional arrows in the cut as a guide. Secure the folds with a seam that is the width of a quilting foot. Now close the sleeve seam and neaten the seam allowances. These are then ironed backwards.
For the eyelets to close the blouse, you can also watch our sewing video for the pulled-through roll. The strip, cut diagonally, is laid right sides together in the fold. Starting at the top with a wide opening (school bag), let it shrink and topstitch the width of your stitching foot to the fold. The roll can be pulled through with a thick thread and a large needle. Insert the blunt end of the needle into the opening and pull through the seam allowance. Your cuff loops are done.
Cut the finished cuff loops a total of 14x with a length of 5cm. Seven of the cut ribbons are stitched to a cuff with a 0.5 cm seam. Pay attention to the position marked by snaps in the cut. The other seven ribbons are secured to the opposite cuff. In the photo above it is the cuff of the right sleeve. Now the cuff can be collapsed neatly. For this, both pattern parts are stitched right sides together with a centimeter all around. Cut off the corners a little so that the area around the corner doesn't get too thick when you turn it over. Process a right cuff as well as an opposite left cuff. Then the open edges are ironed with a centimeter, whereby the inner side flashes out with 1-2mm. Sew the cuff from the outside to the inside with 1cm to the prepared sleeve.
Iron out the seam a bit and then topstitch from the right in the shadow of the seam. You should almost meet the edge of the inner cuff and sew it up. The sleeve can now be finished and then sewn into the armhole. For this, the folds. as described in the pattern, folded and sewn with a seam the width of a quilting foot.
The finished sleeve is sewn 1cm round into the armhole and the seam allowances are neatened together. Note the snaps in the cut. The pleat support is folded twice and neatened together on the long side. The short side is gathered to 20 cm and also finished together. There is also a video here of how I processed the pleat support. The blouse is almost ready. Now all the buttons are sewn onto the cuffs... … on the right side of the body, the buttonholes are punched through as marked in the pattern and the buttons on the front part on the left side of the body are sewn on accordingly.
Your SIL is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.