You can easily sew liana from knit or suede. Make sure that the knit/fabric does not fray at the edges and that it looks as similar inside and out as possible. Liane is a great knitted coat in winter over slim trousers or summer dresses and made of suede it is ideal as a transitional coat . Some of the edges are just cut, so the coat retains its casualness and soft drape.
Length at center back = 88 – 96 cm
Liane was sewn from artificial leather in these instructions.
We recommend a soft knitted fabric , walkware or suede imitation leather , in any case a fabric whose cut edges do not fray; the left and right sides of the fabric should look the same if possible.
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
What you need from fabric:
- 1x collar in the break
- 4x front part, 2x each in opposite directions
- 2x middle front part, opposite
- 2x side panels at the front, opposite
- 2x rear side panels, opposite
- 2x back part, opposite
- 2x upper sleeves, opposite
- 2x undersleeves, opposite
- 2x belts, opposite
- 4x pocket bags, 2x each in opposite directions
- 1x belt loop
To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
The pocket bags are sewn, right sides together, to the front side part according to the markings in the pattern.
Here is an example photo of the ironed seam allowance. In this case, the seam allowances are ironed in one direction and not apart as usual. In our example, the fabric on the left and right has a different color and the right side of the fabric would then be visible on the inside.
The second pocket bags are sewn, right sides together, to the center of the front piece according to the markings in the pattern. Here the seam allowances are ironed apart because these seam allowances cannot be seen on the inside later.
Now place the prepared parts, side part front, right sides together, on the middle front part. Both are sewn together. Be sure to stop and lock at the mark before engaging the bag. Suspend the seam and start again from the mark after the pocket opening. This is very important because otherwise you will sew the pocket opening closed.
Now the pocket opening is stitched to the width of a quilting foot. To do this, you have to fold the lower pocket bag away while the upper pocket bag is sewn into place.
Here you can see a detailed view of the stitching of the pocket opening.
Iron the seam allowances to the front and topstitch a foot wide. Make sure you leave out the pocket opening because otherwise you will sew your pocket shut.
Then the middle of the front part is folded back and both pocket bags, which are right sides together, are sewn together with 1cm all around.
Here you can see a view of the middle of the front and the front of the side with the pocket bags and correctly placed seam allowances.
Now let's get to the preparation of the back part. To do this, the center back of the back piece is sewn together, right sides together. You iron the seam allowances in one direction, to the left, for the same reason as described above.
The back piece is then sewn together, right sides together, with the back of the side piece and the seam allowances are ironed to the back.
The back part is also completely provided with seams the width of a quilting foot. This secures the ironed seam allowances.
Now you can sew the back piece together, right sides together, with the front piece and close the side seams. The seam allowances are ironed towards the back.
The front piece is sewn, right sides together, to the middle of the front piece. Coming to the lower part of the hem, the hem is folded from the middle of the front piece upwards and stitched in place. The seam allowances are ironed towards the back.
Here you can see a detailed view of the seam on the inside of the front part, how the hem was folded up and stitched in place.
Sew the shoulders of the front and back pieces together, right sides together, making sure that the dividing seams meet. The seam allowances are then ironed backwards.
You also topstitch the front piece with a quilting foot width. Of course, you can also topstitch the seam before closing the shoulder. Be careful to move your bag out from under the machine and not accidentally stitch it tightly.
Now all parts are connected together and the hem can be ironed and stitched through at 3.5 cm. Start and end at the dividing seam between the front piece and the middle of the front piece.
Here you can see a detailed view of the ironed hem and the inside seam.
Now let's move on to preparing the sleeves. To do this, sew the upper and lower sleeves together, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances towards the front.
This seam is stitched from the outside to the width of a quilting foot. The hem of the sleeve is ironed according to the clips.
The inner arm seam is closed, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart, then the hem is folded...
... and stitch through at 3.5 cm.
The finished sleeve is now secured in the armhole with pins and sewn together, right sides together, pay attention to the clips in the cut.
The two remaining front pieces will become the inner facings of your coat. Place one front piece, wrong sides together, on the outside front piece and secure both with a foot-width seam all the way around, including the neck hole and the remaining piece at the bottom hem.
The bag is placed forward and pushed between the receipt and the front part.
Then sew the facing to the front by stitching through from the outside in the shadow of the seam. Make sure to stop on the NZG of the pocket bag, suspend and continue stitching down on the bottom seam allowance of the pocket bag. If you sew continuously, you will sew your pocket bag closed. Work both front pieces equally.
The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Prepare the belt by closing the center back, right sides together, and ironing the seam allowances apart. Then iron the belt in reverse, left to left, on top of each other...
... and stitch the edges together, quilting feet wide.
This is what your finished round sewn belt loop looks like with the belt.
The final step is processing the collar. This is placed, right to left, on the neck hole and sewn on. Iron the seam allowances down. Info: If you are using very thin fabric, you can sew a second collar against it and the seam allowances will disappear between the two collars. To do this, you have to iron the seam allowances upwards accordingly and the collar is stitched all around the width of a quilting foot so that both collars are secured on top of each other.
The collar is also stitched from the inside with a quilting foot width.
Your LIAN is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at email@example.com. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.