We love the beautiful Indian summer, but we are already looking forward to the cooler temperatures, clear winter nights and maybe even snow and ice. Until then, you still have enough time to sew the raglan coat Roberta. Admittedly not a quick and easy project, but it is definitely worth the effort. You can combine the casual and cool shape with a thick sweater and a fluffy scarf, then you are safe from every cold draft despite the lapel collar. Further details are the wide piped pockets and the eye-catching strap on the back.
Length at center back = 104 - 108 cm
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining . Place the selvedges parallel to the center. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly.
Also watch our video on feeding.
You need from outer fabric:
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x back piece in opposite directions
- 2x front sleeve opposite
- 2x back sleeves opposite
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x collar stand
- 2x front piece receipt in opposite directions
- 1x back piece receipt
- 4x pocket piping
- 2x bar back part
- 2x rear pocket bags in opposite directions
From lining you need:
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 1x back part in break
- 2x front sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x back sleeves opposite
- 2x pocket pouches
You need from deposit:
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x front piece receipt in opposite directions
- 1x back piece receipt
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x collar stand
- 4x pocket piping
- 2x fixation of front sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x fixation of back sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x fixation back part in opposite directions
- 2x hem inserts back part in opposite directions
- 2x hem inserts of front sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x hem inserts on the back sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x rear latch
Sewing instructions:
You will need a sewing machine to sew this coat .
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!
After you have cut and glued everything, first sew the piped pockets: Transfer the pocket openings to the front parts. Also draw the sewing line on the piping. Iron the piping strips in half.
Now pin the piping (right sides together) on the markings so that the seam allowances are facing. There should be a distance of exactly 4 cm between the sewing lines and 2 cm from the break in the piping to the sewing line. Now sew these lines. Make sure they are square and the same length. Then check the distances again so you can be sure that the piped pocket will be straight and the same width.
Now cut open the pocket (dashed line): in the middle between the two pipings, up to approx. 1.5 cm before the end. Here you cut a triangle, up to the last stitch.
Now turn the piping inside out and iron the seams flat.
Now sew the small triangles onto the piping. Check on the front whether there is a right angle on the short side of the piping and whether the piping meets exactly in the middle. Hold everything tight and fold the front piece over so you can see the fabric triangle and piping. Sew across the triangle (from incision to incision) several times. Now the short sides of the pocket opening are also secured.
Now sew the back pocket bag (fabric) from the inside to the upper piping seam allowance, just next to the first seam.
Sew the front pocket pouch (lining) to the bottom piping seam. Iron the seams flat.
Pin the two pocket pouches together and sew them together.
Sew the bust darts and iron them up.
Then you sew the upper darts and iron them apart.
Sew the center back together right sides together. Now iron the seam allowances apart and the hem facing inwards.
Sew the back bar right sides together, leaving a hole for turning. Before you turn, cut small triangles out of the seam allowance at the curves so that you get nice curves. Hand sew the hole closed and topstitch the bartack at 0.7 from the edge.
Sew the back piece facing to the two front piece facings right sides together and press open the seam allowances.
Sew one front sleeve and one back sleeve together at the top sleeve seam, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart and the hem facing inside.
Now sew the front sleeves right sides together onto the front pieces and the back sleeves onto the back piece, note the notches. You can then iron the seam allowances apart.
Place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the side seams, including the bottom sleeve seam. Iron these seam allowances apart as well.
Now sew the collar bands (upper curve) right sides together onto the collar (lower curve). Iron the seam allowances apart and snip the collar a little so it lays flatter.
Pin the lower collar onto the upper collar, right sides together, and sew the two together on three sides, see picture. Again, cut triangles out of the seam allowance, turn the collar inside out and iron it flat.
Sew a narrow ribbon out of the lining fabric as a hanger. Turn and iron it. Sew it onto the back piece facing, an equal distance from the center back. You can also make it from outer fabric or use a ready-made ribbon.
Pin the front piece facing to the front piece right sides together and sew up to the collar insert snap. Cut triangles from the seam allowance along the curves and iron them apart.
Sew the undercollar with the bridge to the front and back pieces and the upper collar to the front and back facings: Start with the upper collar and sew it to the curve of the back facing.
You do the same with the undercollar, which you sew onto the overcoat.
The collar has two corners and so does the front facing, see also the pattern. Sew in between. Cut the seam allowance on the front facing up to just before the seam (like the corners used).
Turn the whole thing under the machine so that the undercollar and facing are now on top of each other and continue sewing to the center back.
Iron the seam allowances apart and sew the two collar seams together at the seam allowances.
Sew the front lining sleeves to the back ones, right sides together. Iron the seam apart.
Sew the darts in the front pieces and iron them up.
Place the back piece right sides together (in the fold). Sew the lining fold parallel to the center back up to the marking at the top and bottom. Iron the fold into the right back piece.
Sew the front lining sleeves to the lining front pieces and the back lining sleeves to the lining back piece. Iron the seam allowances apart.
Now you can sew the side seams. Leave a hole in the sleeve seam so you can turn the coat inside out later. Iron these seam allowances apart as well, including at the open seam.
Now pin the lining to the facings right sides together and sew it from hem to hem.
Before you turn the coat inside out, place the lining sleeves, wrong sides together, on the outer fabric sleeves. Fold them over so you can pin the seam allowances right sides together. Then sew the sleeve hem. Turn the coat through the still open hem. Iron the seam allowances on the front and sleeves into the lining from the outside.
Pull out the sleeve hems as well and sew the seam allowances together so that the hem cannot slip down.
Pin the lining to the hem right sides together and sew. Sew a bow from the front edge towards the lining, see picture. Again, sew the seam allowances together at the dividing seams so that the hem facing does not slip down. Through the hole in the lining sleeve you can turn the coat and iron the hems.
Now sew the hole in the lining tightly together.
Now stitch the front edge from the outside 0.7 cm until the lapel fold. From there, topstitch the lapel and collar on the inside of the coat, again up to the lapel fold and then again on the outside to the hem.
Close the hole in the sleeve.
Sew buttonholes on front piece and back bartack as marked on pattern. Sew the matching buttons to the front and back pieces.
Your ROBERTA is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
