Nähanleitung Mantel Tilda

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS “TILDA” COAT

During their internship with us, fashion design students develop their own pattern , and of course Ellen and Dagmar are there to help and advise. The Quitte dress and the Sil blouse by Sarah and Zoe were created in the past. The classic Tilda coat was designed by Celina, you may already know her from the great upcycling projects of Lotta, Clara and Cecilia. Tilda is a figure-hugging blazer coat that has double-row buttons and gets its special look from the rising darts in the front and the identical dividing seams in the back. So that you can implement your Tilda professionally, we recommend our explanatory videos on YouTube.

Length at center back = 120 – 122 cm

→ To the pattern “Tilda”

In this pattern, Tilda was sewn from a wool and cashmere blend.

Required material:

We recommend a sturdy, winter coat material , such as wool , cashmere or wool .

Sizes 34-42 Outer fabric 3.40 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-42 Lining fabric 2.00 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-42 inlay 1.60 m 90cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Outer fabric 3.70 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Lining fabric 2.40 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 inlay 1.90 m 90cm wide
Sizes 34-50 pad 1 x pair 1 cm thick
Sizes 34-50 Buttons 7 pieces 2.4cm diameter
Sizes 34-50 Buttons 6 pieces 1.6cm diameter
Sizes 34-50 Cotton line 2x 30x5cm

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining . Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvages parallel to the center. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from outer fabric:

  • 2x front part covered with extra insert at the same time
  • 2x back part covered with extra insert at the same time
  • 2x front sleeves covered with extra inserts at the same time
  • 2x back sleeves have an extra insert on the other side
  • 1x bar back part
  • 2x rear pocket bags in opposite directions
  • 2x belts

also with insert:

  • 2x side back pieces in opposite directions
  • 2x front part facing opposite
  • 1x back cover
  • 1x upper collar
  • 1x undercollar
  • 2x collar bar
  • 2x strips opposite each other

also with form band:

  • 1x front neck hole/shoulder and armhole

You need lining material:

  • 2x front part opposite
  • 2x back part
  • 2x front sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x back sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x pocket bags in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Lining: The right upper sleeve is sewn together with the right lower sleeve, right sides together, and the inner arm seam is also closed. However, an opening of approx. 20cm is left on the left sleeve so that the hem can be closed later through this opening. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag ) . Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

We continue with the back part. There is a lining fold in the center back. Sew this fold diagonally as shown in the picture and iron it in one direction up to the hem.

The seam allowance is cut diagonally up to the seam so that the fabric can then be turned into position.

Now the upper slit seam is turned and sewn down.

The seam allowance and the fold are ironed to the left side of the body.

The side seams and shoulder seams are sewn together, right sides together, according to the pattern and then ironed towards the middle of the body.

The lining sleeves can now be inserted. Please note the passport clips. Your lining coat is ready.

We continue with the outer material. The sleeves are placed right sides together and sewn together as shown in the picture.

Fold the corners together for the corner of the letter and then sew them off and then iron out this seam.

The hem can now be ironed into the correct position.

The corner of the fake sleeve slit is then sewn off.

We continue with the back part. Here the center back is closed up to the snap position on the slit.

After the side back pieces have been sewn on, right sides together, and the seams have been ironed apart, the shaping band can be fixed at the neck hole and in the armhole.

The slit is stitched with an oblique stitch to approx. 2cm below the clip. Place the seam allowance towards the left side of the body.

The front part and the front facing are sewn together, right sides together.

The front facing is turned over and the hem is ironed into shape. Transfer the pocket opening to the front parts.

Iron each strip strip in half. Then draw the sewing line on the strip and stitch it in place with an auxiliary seam.

Now pin the strip, right sides together, onto your marking and secure it to your outer fabric.

Turn your outer fabric front part to the left side of the fabric and mark two lines at right angles 5cm upwards from the previously sewn line.

Pin the pocket bag approx. 1.5 cm from your cutting line on the strip...

... and stitch it from the left side of the fabric, on the line you marked earlier. Make sure your seam on the placket is the exact length as the seam on the pocket bag.

Now you can see the rectangle from the left side of the fabric, which is cut in the middle. Cut up to 1.5 cm from the ends of the rectangle and then taper diagonally towards the seam corner.

Through this slit, the strip and the pocket bag are pulled completely to the left side of the fabric.

The lining pocket bag is placed on the seam allowance of the strip, right sides together, sewn on and then stitched flat.

Pull and stitch the pointed corner straight onto the seam allowance of the placket and the pocket bag.

Now you can sew the pocket bag together with the lining pocket bag all around.

The dart can now be closed, as already described for the lining.

Your front piece can now be closed with the back piece, right sides together, at the side seams and the shoulder seams.

The back facing is sewn together with the front facing, right sides together, and the seams are ironed apart.

We continue with the collar. The upper and lower collars are closed with the bar, right sides together. We then ironed the seam allowance apart and...

…stitched on both sides.

Pin the lower collar, right sides together, onto the upper collar and sew the two together on the sides, see picture.

Here, cut out the corners from the seam allowance, turn the collar over, stitch it as flat as possible onto the undercollar and iron it flat.

The collar can then be inserted. To do this, the upper collar is sewn to the facings.

You sew the lapel corner up to the point of the previously closed collar seam. And cut the corner.

Sew the undercollar right sides together to the neck hole in the outer fabric.

Iron the seam allowances apart and cut the seam allowances in the circles marked in the photo.

Now the seam allowance of the upper and lower collar is sewn shut by hand.

The sleeve can now be inserted into the armhole, paying attention to the fitting clips. The fullness is maintained in the ball area.

The arm ball is fixed with a piece of cotton wool. The cotton strip is approx. 32×5 cm.

A strip of lining, approx. 10 cm long, is attached to the shoulder seam to prevent the lining from slipping later.

The shoulder pad can be inserted, the edge of the pad ends at the cut edge of the fabric of the arm sleeve.

Now take your belt loops and sew them together at approx. 5mm, now you can turn them (continuous roll). Now iron it nice and smooth. Your belt loop can now be sewn into place, left sides together.

Then iron it as shown in the photo.

The belt loop is now sewn round on the marking from the clip of the seam allowance.

To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here:

Let's move on to inserting the lining coat. This is sewn onto the facings, right sides together.

Now sew the lining hem of the sleeve with the outer fabric hem, right sides together.

The previously inserted lining strip is fixed at the shoulder point using the seam allowance of the lining jacket.

Fix the seam allowances of the lining and outer fabric at the armpit point.

In this video, Ellen shows you how to create a hidden coat slit.

The outer fabric top of the slit is sewn together with the lining, right sides together. Afterwards the…

... hem can be closed over the other hem opening that is still open.

Now the other side of the slot can be closed and…

... the edge can be topstitched afterwards.

Now close the still open side of the hem by…

…as far as possible, sew the lining and outer fabric together, right sides together. Close the last piece through the opening in the lining sleeve.

The coat is pulled through the lining opening in the left sleeve. The remaining hole on the lining sleeve is then sewn close to the edge.

In this video, Dagmar shows you how to sew on buttons in style.

Sew your buttons according to the markings, making sure the stem is high enough to match the thickness of the fabric.

Your TILDA is ready!

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

Back to blog