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Summer dresses in a midi length are very trendy. Inka has a round neckline and is sleeveless, the width of the skirt is gathered at the waist with a tunnel band. If you like Inka better in a shorter version, then change the length of the skirt by the desired amount. The neckline and armholes are only finished with a ribbon, so no slips can get through.

Length at center back = 127 cm

In this pattern, Inka was sewn from a softly falling Tencel.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing fabric, e.g. viscose, cotton or silk, opaque as the dress is unlined.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 3.10 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 3.30 m (140 cm wide)

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front, back, skirt, tunnel-back and tunnel-front in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or with chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that from size 38 bust darts must be processed. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

• 1x front part in break
• 1x back part in break
• 2x skirt in the break
• 4x pocket bags, 2x each of the same kind
• 1x tunnel in front of the break
• 1x tunnel at the back of the break
• 2x binding tape
• 2x armhole tape oblique FDL
• 1x neck band oblique FDL

also with insert:

• 2x tunnel front reinforcement of the buttonhole positions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Stitch the neck and armholes of the front and back sections with an auxiliary seam that is the width of a stitching foot. With this you guarantee no stretching of the stretches with light fabrics.

Now you can place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the side and shoulder seams. The seam allowances are then neatened together and ironed to the back.

Now I come to the preparation of the neck and armhole bands, which have been cut diagonally. These are ironed in half, in the break, left to left. Since the stretches expand a little when ironing, you have to reposition your paper pattern on the ribbons after ironing and cut them to the right size.

Then all ribbons are placed right sides together and closed to form a round. Iron the seam allowances apart and fold the ribbons again, wrong sides together.

Stitch the neck and armhole bands on top of each other with an auxiliary seam that is the width of a stitching foot. This step prevents both layers of fabric from slipping.

The now perfectly prepared neck and armhole bands are pinned right sides together and sewn on all around with 1cm.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the neck and armhole processing with the respective ribbons. The seam of the neckline is on my right shoulder.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also causes the ribbon to automatically lie inwards and not roll out. Only the tape is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

For extremely fraying and thin fabrics, I recommend trimming the seam allowance extra.

Turn the ribbons inside out and iron everything out for stitching.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the quilted neckline and armholes.

The top is now prepared and you can devote yourself to the tunnel of the dress. Place both tunnel pieces right sides together and close the side seams. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Then you iron the upper edge 1 cm.

The front tunnel gets buttonholes. Use the cut as a guide. Put the tunnel aside.

Take both skirt parts, place them right sides together and close the side seams up to the pocket opening snap.

Then you sew on both pocket bags from the front and back skirt part right sides together and end at the height of the side seam at the snap.

Here you can see a detailed photo of a sewn-on side seam pocket. If necessary, you can flatten the pocket bag just under the edge.

Both pocket bags are sewn together right sides together and the seam allowances are neatened together.

Overcast the side seams in one go and iron them to the back.

The hem is turned in and out twice and the edge is stitched tight.

The skirt waist seam is provided with an auxiliary seam for the gathering folds and gathered to the length specified in the pattern.

Now take your prepared top and place it on the skirt piece , wrong sides together . The seam then faces outwards, but is later hidden with the tunnel,…

... because the tunnel is then sewn to the seam allowance from the outside, right sides together, and ironed upwards.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how I sewed on the tunnel.

You topstitch the pressed-up tunnel all around at the bottom seam, just under the edge...

... and at the upper seam just tight edge.

Last but not least, the only thing missing is the processing of the binding tape. Lay the cuttings of the ties right sides together and stitch them together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

The ends of the ribbons are turned right sides together and the corners on both sides are cut away.

Fold the seam allowances in and out and stitch the band all the way around.

Your tie is done. Drag this through the tunnel. Use a safety pin to help you.

Your INKA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.

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