SEWING INSTRUCTIONS NIGHTDRESS “DORA”

The Dora nightdress has a loose cut and has a very feminine look thanks to the deep V-neck and the drawstring with tie. As a special detail, you can add a matching lace border to the bottom hem.

Length at center back = 95 – 101 cm

→ To the pattern “Dora”

Dora was sewn from a soft jersey in this pattern.

Required material:

We recommend a soft jersey and a satin in viscose or polyester as a contrasting material.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-42	Great	1.25m	6 cm wide with scalloped edge
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	2.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Great	1.50 m	6 cm wide with scalloped edge
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.40m	90cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Satin ribbon	2.00 m	1cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front piece, back piece, neckline at the front and neckline at the back in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x front part in the break
• 1x back part in the break
• 1x tunnel
• 2x armhole tape in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 1x neck hole trim at the front in the break
• 1x neck hole panel at the back in the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this nightgown you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.

So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Place the front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together, close the side seam, neaten it together and press the seam allowance backwards.

Iron the tunnel 1cm all around.

The tunnel is then needled to the markings in the cut and the edge is sewn into place. To do this, roll your still open shoulders down to make processing easier.

Now you can close the shoulders, neaten them together and iron the seam allowance towards the back.

The armhole straps are closed with one centimeter on the short side, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart and then place the ribbon inside the fold, left sides together.

To make it easier to work with and to prevent it from stretching out, stitch the armhole band once all the way around.

Then place the prepared armhole bands, right sides together, into the armhole and stitch it through.

Now turn the band inside out and stitch it in place from the right, quilting foot wide.

Here you can see a detailed view of the finished armhole on the left side of the product.

Sew the neck hole panel together at 1cm at the front and back and iron the seam allowances apart.

Then iron the outer edge 1cm all around.

Pin the prepared neck hole panel, right sides together , to the neck hole in the front and back pieces and stitch it in place. The seam allowance of the lower lace at the neckline and the curve at the neck are specially cut. This means that the panel can later be easily collapsed outwards.

The seam allowance is stitched flat as far as you can get to it. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the panel, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the front part is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side. The neck hole trim is then turned outward and ironed into place.

If you are making the hem with a lace border, first overlock the hem with the overlocker and then sew on the lace. But if you don't use lace, you can fold the hem over 2x 1.5cm and stitch it through at the width of a quilting foot.

Finally, pull the satin ribbon through the tunnel with a safety pin, cut the ends at an angle and burn off the fibers a little with a lighter. The polyester fibers melt and this prevents the band from fraying too quickly.