SEWING INSTRUCTIONS NIGHTDRESS “DORA”

The Dora nightgown has a loose cut and a very feminine look thanks to the deep V-neckline and the drawstring with a tie. As a special detail, you can attach a matching lace border to the lower hem.

Length at center back = 95 - 101 cm

Dora was sewn from a soft jersey in this pattern.

Required material:

We recommend a soft jersey and a viscose or polyester satin as a contrast fabric.

Sizes 34-42	outer fabric	1.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-42	Top	1.25m	6 cm wide with scalloped edge
Sizes 44-50	outer fabric	2.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Top	1.50 m	6 cm wide with scalloped edge
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.40 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	satin ribbon	2.00 m	1 cm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front, back, front neckline, and back neckline in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 1x front part in break
• 1x back part in break
• 1x tunnel
• 2x armhole tape in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 1x neck hole front in break
• 1x neck hole panel at the back in the break

Sewing instructions:

You will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine to sew this nightgown, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.

So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Place the front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together, close the side seam, neaten them together and iron the seam allowance to the back.

Iron the tunnel around 1cm all around.

Then the tunnel is needled to the markings in the pattern and the edges are sewn on tightly. To do this, roll the shoulders that are still open down for easier processing.

Now you can close the shoulders, neaten them together and iron the seam allowance towards the back.

The armhole bands are closed on the short side, right sides together, with a centimeter. Iron the seam allowances apart and then place the ribbon, wrong sides together, in the fold.

For easier processing and so that it doesn't stretch, stitch the armhole band all the way around the width of a stitching foot.

Then place the prepared armhole bands, right sides together, in the armhole and stitch through.

Now turn the band inside out and stitch it from the right side, a foot's width apart.

Here you can see a detailed view of the finished armhole on the left side of the fabric.

Sew the neckline together with 1cm at the front and back and iron the seam allowances apart.

Then iron the outer edge around 1cm.

Pin the prepared neckline, right sides together , to the neckline in the front and back sections and stitch it in place. The seam allowance of the lower tip at the neckline and the curve at the neck are cut separately. This allows the panel to be folded outwards later.

The seam allowance is flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, it also means that the panel automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not stitched separately. Only the front part is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side. Then the neckline is folded outwards and ironed to fit.

If you finish the hem with a lace border, you first overcast the hem with the serger and then sew on the lace. But if you don't use lace, you can turn up the hem 2x 1.5 cm and stitch through the width of your stitching foot.

Finally, pull the satin ribbon through the tunnel with a safety pin, cut off the ends at an angle and burn the fibers off with a lighter. The polyester fibers melt and this prevents the tape from fraying too quickly.