---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---

Overalls are a casual alternative to a dress or a classic shirt-pants combination. Our Canan overall sewing pattern is sleeveless and impresses with its casual width. The elastic band at the waist ensures that the overall fits properly and gives it its feminine shape. Combined with high shoes and a high-quality fabric, the jumpsuit also fits perfectly into evening wear.

Length of side seam from seam = 104 cm (sits slightly lower than waist)

→ To the pattern “Canan”

In these instructions, Canan was sewn from a light viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing fabric such as viscose, silk, jersey or wool georgette.

Sizes 34-38

• Outer fabric 2.40 m (140 cm wide)
• Elastic band 0.80 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 40-44

• Outer fabric 3.00 m (140 cm wide)
• Elastic band 0.90 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 46-50

• Outer fabric 3.40 m (140 cm wide)
• Elastic band 1.10 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Button 1 piece (7 mm diameter)
• Insert 0.70 m (90 cm wide)
• Fixing tape 0.90 m (12 mm wide)

For your information in advance:

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces out of your fabric. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place pattern pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the bust dart. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

If you want to make your Canan out of corduroy, note that corduroy is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Canan out of checked fabric:

Dagmar shows you how best to cut checked fabric in this video.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x front part in the break
• 2x back part, opposite
• 1x strip for eyelets
• 2x pocket bags, opposite
• 2x front trousers, opposite
• 2x rear pants, opposite
• 1x tunnel at the front of the fracture
• 1x tunnel at the back of the break

Rough cutting

also with insert:

• 1x VT receipt in the break
• 2x RT receipt, opposite

Fine cutting

also with form band:

• 1x neck hole front part facing
• 2x neck hole back part facing

Sewing instructions:

To sew this overall you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges. Use a jersey needle or a fine sewing needle (70 gauge) to match your choice of fabric. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

It's best to start with the bust dart. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little off.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Sew the back pieces together, right sides together, up to the clip (for the slit). Finish the seam allowances below the clip individually and iron the seam allowances apart.

Here is a video on how to process the eyelet.

Overlap the eyelet and sew it to the seam allowance between the clips on the back piece. It should be the appropriate size to match the button.

Clean up the receipts on the edges marked in orange.

Gather the section from the clip to the center back to 8cm. To do this, sew with a large stitch at 0.7cm and a little over 1cm from the cut edge. Then grab the loose ends of both seams and push the fabric together to the specified length. Repeat this for all other gathers on the overalls. There is also a video about this.

Sew the back facing to the neckline and slit of the back. At the gathered area, sew between the two seams of the gathering. After sewing it together with the facing, you unravel the bottom seam that you sewed for the gathering. This also applies to all other crimps.

Now the slit and the back neck hole have collapsed. The eyelet for the button now faces outwards.

The seam allowance is then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Now gather the neckline of the front piece using the same principle.

Pull the threads until the specified length is reached.

Pinch the neckline of the front piece like you did with the back piece, unpick the bottom gathering seam again and stitch the seam allowance flat to the facing until just before the shoulder.

Finish the side seams of the front and back pieces and sew the pieces together, right sides together, at the side seam using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Iron the seam allowances apart. Sew the side seams of the facings together in the same way.

Now cover the armholes with the facing. Pay attention to the clips and place the side seams on top of each other.

Cut back the seam allowance on the armhole and cut in at intervals. This way the receipt lays down more nicely after being turned over.

Stitch the seam allowance flat against the facing again and iron the armhole.

Now the shoulders have to be connected together. To do this, insert the strap of the front part into the opening of the back strap.

Reach between the facing and the front piece and pull out the strap. Close the shoulder seam with 1cm. The top is finished so far and we're moving on to the pants.

Finish the trouser parts at the side seam, crotch seam, inside leg seam and the pocket bags all around. Place the pocket bags right side on the right side of the pants pieces. Stitch the pocket opening between the clips with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

Place the front pants on top of the back pants and the pocket bags on top of each other. Sew the side seam together above and below the pocket opening and close the pocket bag.

This is what the pocket opening looks like from the outside. Do the same with the second pocket opening. Iron the pocket bag to the front pants and attach it to the seam allowance of the front pants. The side seams are ironed apart.

Close the inside leg seam with a 1.5cm seam allowance (marked in orange), turn the trouser legs right side out and then sew the front and back seat seams together, right sides together.

Now take the top part again and gather the front and back parts at the hem between the clips as usual. Match the width of the top to the width of the pants.

Sew the pants and top together, right sides together, using a 1cm seam allowance. Pay attention to the position of the side seams and the center front and back using the clips.

Sew the tunnel together at the side seams, right sides together. It's best to mark the tunnel ahead with chalk on the left side to avoid confusion.

Fold the top over the pants so that you can access the dividing seam. Sew the upper edge of the tunnel to the seam allowance of the dividing seam. Before that, you could iron 1cm around the lower edge of the tunnel.

Fold the tunnel over the seam allowance onto the pants (if necessary, trim the seam allowance back a little). Stitch the edge of the tunnel onto the trousers, leaving a small gap for the elastic to be inserted.

Use a safety pin to pull the rubber through the tunnel. It's best to try on the overalls and then determine the length of the elastic and also the correct leg length for the hem processing. After trying it on, sew the elastic ends on top of each other and close the gap in the tunnel.

Iron the hem 2x 2cm and topstitch it.

Finally, sew a button to match your eyelet on the top.

Your CANAN is ready!

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Warmest regards, your Pattern Berlin team.