---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---

Overalls are a casual alternative to a dress or to the classic shirt-trousers combo. Our overall Canan pattern is sleeveless and convinces with a casual width. The elastic at the waist ensures that the jumpsuit fits properly and gives it its feminine shape. Combined with high shoes and a high-quality fabric, the jumpsuit also fits perfectly into evening wear.

Side seam length from seam = 104 cm (slightly lower than waist)

In this pattern, Canan was sewn from a light viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing fabric such as viscose, silk, jersey or wool georgette.

Sizes 34-38

• Outer fabric 2.40 m (140 cm wide)
• Elastic band 0.80 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 40-44

• Outer fabric 3.00 m (140 cm wide)
• Elastic band 0.90 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 46-50

• Outer fabric 3.40 m (140 cm wide)
• Elastic band 1.10 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Button 1 piece (7 mm diameter)
• Insert 0.70 m (90 cm wide)
• Fixing strap 0.90 m (12 mm wide)

In advance for you as information:

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay out pattern pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the bust dart. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

If you want to make your canan out of cord, then note that cord is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your canan out of plaid fabric:

In this video, Dagmar shows you the best way to cut checked fabric.

You need from fabric:

• 1x front part in break
• 2x back part, opposite
• 1x strip for eyelets
• 2x pocket bags, opposite
• 2x front pants, opposite
• 2x hind pants, opposite
• 1x tunnel in front of the break
• 1x tunnel at the back of the break

rough cut

also with insert:

• 1x VT receipt in the break
• 2x RT document, opposite

fine cutting

also with band:

• 1x neckline front slip
• 2x neckline back piece slip

Sewing instructions:

To sew this overall you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. Use a jersey needle or a fine sewing needle (70 gauge) to match your fabric selection. In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

It is best to start with the bust dart. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Sew the back pieces right sides together up to the snap (for the slit). Neaten the seam allowances below the clip one at a time and iron the seam allowances apart.

Here is a video of the processing of the eyelet.

Turn over the eyelet and sew it to the seam allowance between the snaps on the back piece. It should be the right size for the button.

Neaten the receipts at the edges marked in orange.

Gather the stretch from the snap to the center back to 8cm. To do this, you sew with a large stitch at 0.7 cm and at a little over 1 cm from the raw edge. Then, grab the loose ends of both seams and push the fabric together to the specified length. Do the same for all further gathers of the jumpsuit. There is also a video for this.

Sew the back facing to the neckline and slit on the back. At the ruffled area, sew between the 2 seams of the ruffle. The bottom seam that you sewed for the ruffles is unpicked after you have sewn it together with the slip. This also applies to all other crimps.

Now the slit and the back neckline are turned over. The eyelet for the button is now facing outwards.

The seam allowance is then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Gather the neckline from the front using the same principle.

Pull on the threads until the specified length is reached.

Overthrow the neckline from the front part as with the back part, undo the lower gathering seam again and stitch the seam allowance flat against the facing up to just before the shoulder.

Neaten the side seams of the front and back parts and sew the parts together right sides together at the side seam with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. Iron the seam allowances apart. Sew the side seams of the slips together in the same way.

Now cover the armholes with the slip. Pay attention to the snaps and line up the side seams to fit.

Trim the armhole seam allowance and trim at intervals. In this way, the receipt lays nicer after turning it over.

Again, stitch the seam allowance flat against the facing and iron the armhole.

Now the shoulder has to be joined together. To do this, insert the strap of the front part into the opening of the rear strap.

Reach between the facing and the front and pull out the strap. Close the shoulder seam with 1cm. The top is finished so far and we turn our attention to the pants.

Neaten the trouser parts at the side seam, inseam, inseam and the pocket pouches all around. Place the pocket pouches right side down on the right side of the pant panels. Stitch the pocket opening between the snaps with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

Place the front pants on top of the back pants and the pocket pouches on top of each other. Sew the side seam above and below the pocket opening and close the pocket bag.

This is what the finished pocket opening looks like from the outside. Do the same with the second pocket opening. Iron the pocket bag to the front trousers and fix it to the seam allowance of the front trousers. The side seams are ironed apart.

Close the inseam with a 1.5cm seam allowance (marked orange), turn the pant legs right side out and then sew the front and back seat seams together right sides together.

Now take the top again and, as usual, gather the front and back sections at the hem between the snaps. Match the width of the top to the width of the pants.

Sew the pants and top together right sides together with a 1cm seam allowance. Pay attention to the position of the side seams and the center front and back using the snaps.

Sew the tunnel together at the side seams, right sides together. It is best to mark the front tunnel with chalk on the left-hand side to avoid confusion.

Fold the top over the pants to access the dividing seam. Sew the upper edge of the tunnel to the seam allowance of the dividing seam. Before that you could iron the lower edge of the tunnel 1cm.

Fold the tunnel over the seam allowance onto the pants (if necessary, cut back the seam allowance a bit). Stitch the tunnel close to the edge onto the trousers and leave a small gap for the elastic to pull in.

Pull the elastic through the tunnel using a safety pin. It is best to try on the overalls and then determine the length of the elastic and also the right leg length for the hem processing. After trying it on, sew the rubber ends over each other and close the gap in the tunnel.

Iron the hem 2x 2cm and topstitch it.

Finally, you sew on a button that matches your eyelet on the bodice.

Your CANAN is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.